My car is slow.

[buildabear3804]

Hello everyone, this is my first post on these forums. I bought a 2016 non-pp SHO a month ago, for a fun, quick daily driver. Mileage sat around 95k. The car had no issues off the lot, I drove it 60 miles home and it ran like butter. It had a received an oil change about 1000 ish miles before I bought it. When I tried a 0-60 with my friend, we got 8.5 seconds every time we timed it. I had transmission shudder on launch, so I did a drain and fill. My trans fluid was a little brown, but looked as though it had been changed before. No more shudder. I removed the last catalytic converter, as I was getting a rotten egg smell from driving and acceleration. It was dark and looked clogged, but not as bad as some I have seen before. Fixed the smell. I also changed the front 3 spark plugs, as I cannot reach the back 3 with my current tools. Ran a little smoother but nothing very noticeable. I dropped my tires pressure because they were too high. I have seen an increase in maybe .5 seconds off my 0-60 from everything I have done so far. WOT with TC on and off. I have a little bit of oil on the inside of the blowoff valve and throttle body, but everything I have read said it is normal. Seems to hold boost when I floor it, no blow off. Any ideas? I’m stumped. Put some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank today, see how that goes.

Thanks, Zach


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kryptto]

OK you need to read @SM105K maintenance thread but you are on your way. You can get the back 3 plugs out patience and persistence but I would change them they aren't cheap either but stick with OEM.

Time differences with our intercooler is a thing, the heat soak is very real. Your can can get a 3 bar MAP and pay a tuner as in AJP - search Brads email here on these forums. OR Matt from Gearhead. Those the only two to trust.

Next getting Forscan or any DTC reader would be helpful. Don't need a light for issues being stored.

 

[luigisho]

You are close to a full refresh. Do you have access to a scan tool with live data? That can show you where you are out of spec. in terms of spark, timing, O2 and other sensor feedback. Maybe spend a little $ and pay someone who has experience diagnosing Ford ecoboost engines to give it a good once over. Are there any codes or dash lights on? Ford has alot of wiggle room in their vehicle programming before a check engine light pops. You can see things with a proper scan tool that are just under that error warning light threshold.

 

[buildabear3804]

No CEL, We used a standard OBDII scanner the other day and nothing came up. Changed all my plugs and ignition coils, OEM plugs and Walker coils. Still no difference. Should I take it to a dealer or does anyone know an Ecoboost expert near West Michigan?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[luigisho]

I mean, if the cat was bad that indicates something was contaminiating it. The O2 sensor attached may or may not have been contaminated to operate below optimal. You really have to get live operating data to dig in. Codes are when things get way off. You can try and use FORscan with a paid fee, but that is a learning curve. So this option is based on time and interest in learning how to use it. Other than that, you need someone that can do it for you. And not a no codes can't help you tech. This will cost for time and skill. New cars are very computer heavy machines now. You need to know what is good- to cross off the list- and narrow down what is bad to get a focused attack plan. OR you can cross your fingers and fire a parts cannon at it. I can't say I don't usually do a best guess combo but when that fails...

 

[buildabear3804]

Okay, I’ll try and use Forscan or I will find someone who knows how. Thanks for your help, ill check my O2 sensors asap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[buildabear3804]

Hello, I used a live data OBDII to try and figure out what was going on. On a WOT pull, my boost will reach a certain threshold before it will drop and blow off, at around 45-60 mph. From the research I did, is this because of a gummed up waste gate? Another thing I noticed is that the absolute throttle position will dip down from 80% to 25-35% while I am still petal to the metal, around the same time as blow off and when the car seems sluggish in the 0-60. Does the waste gate sound like a good place to check first? Would a clogged waste gate cause that much of a power difference?

Thanks, Zach


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[J persons]

One thing that wasn't mentioned, use the highest octane gas that you can find in your area. It will make a difference.

 

[buildabear3804]

Hello everyone, it has been a few days since I made my post. I switched to 93 octane pump gas and it’s made a big difference once I get moving. I am still having some issues from a dig, but now it is because of my tires not getting traction (they are old and low tread, as well as bad tires to start out with.) I was also having slight overboost issues, about 20-25 psi on WOT. Sprayed my wastegate actuators with PB baster on both turbos for the past 3 days, it has been lowering my overboost to 20 psi or lower. Thanks to everyone who respond, the suggestions for trying higher octane gas and live data tracking.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk