what fits and what hits ?? wheels 17-18-19"

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fabtoys

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Just bought a 95 green atx and want to get wheels and want to hear what fits from someone who has tried instead of tirerack or american tire . Will probably lower it also .any help would be great thx :confused:
 

sho_bc

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*cough* search *cough* wink you'll actually get TONS of information on wheel sizes and fitments in there, and its faster than waiting for someone knowledgable (not me) to post. :) what i have gathered, is that you can get pretty much any wheel up to 19s (can't remember if someone has had 20s, but those would be super heavy, i'm sure), as long as you have the correct offset. you also may have to make some adjustments to your fenders to prevent any rubbing (trimming/rolling). IMO, 18s look good on gen2s. (good example is RI-SHO's old ride http://ri-sho.tripod.com/ )

welcome to the forum! thumb

*edit* oh yeah, and post some pics of your car up in SHOrelated :D

<small>[ March 15, 2004, 12:47 PM: Message edited by: sho_bc ]</small>
 

Yamaha V6

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Dayum, someone still has my link, huh? :)

James Pappas (TheBigJimSHO) bought Centerline 19" wheels for his; I believe Tim Tyner (Toolman) has them now on his TurboSHO.

As for width, 7" is a typical width, there are a couple of people running 9" SVT T-Bird Replicas around, with spacers. Per Josh T at SHO Nut, an 8" wheel fits at +38mm offset without spacers. I've got 17x7's on my 95 daily, and I'm trying to finalize 17x8's on my 91 track SHO.
 

RI-SHO

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Again i'll have to reply on this, the height of the rim has little to do with fitment with a small enough tire to equal out total tire diameter, if you wanted to you could and could find skinny 22" rims you could put them on with the right offset and tires :) .

But realistically your offset(38mm-42mm), width(6"-8.5") will determine if your wheels will fit or not. As far as tires 215mm-245mm are what you want to stay with and depending on what height of rim you buy you'll need to buy a tire with the proper sidewall aspect ratio.
 

thumpida

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do these rules of thumb apply to all sho years? please clarify. i was under the impression that different years could fit different things. personally my 89has 15" american racing 5 spokes which i hate. i love the look of the 18s but wouldnt the extra weight hinder acceleration and braking?
 

RI-SHO

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thumpida:
do these rules of thumb apply to all sho years? please clarify. i was under the impression that different years could fit different things. personally my 89has 15" american racing 5 spokes which i hate. i love the look of the 18s but wouldnt the extra weight hinder acceleration and braking?
They apply to Gen I's without sagging rear springs wink , but in general gen I's have smaller fenders width wise compared to Gen II's+.

The extra weight will hinder you which is why those who will complain about the weight spit out the big dough to buy lightweight/forged rims, as far as braking same as the wheels pay more for bigger brakes for braking aka 96 SHO upgrade or 13" brakes.

The way I see it is if my 24lbs/ea 18x8 TD Motorsports will slow my accel or 1/4mile down about 0.1-0.3sec i'll just have another reason to add mods, and if my braking is reduced with the already crappy stock 10.2" i'll save up and buy a front 13" brake kit and let my ABS do the rest :D .

Also just for a little FYI: 1 pound of unsprung weight be it rims/tires/brakes will equal about 7lbs of added sprung/chassis weight, so my 24lbs/ea 18x8's come in at 5lbs heavier than stock steel 16x6 slicers on my Gen II so I added (5lbs*4rims)20lbs of unsprung weight but what counts is my "real" added weight of (20lbs*7lbs-sprung) is 140lbs added total to my car.

Basically if 140lbs(a small passenger) will worry you that bad then stay away from the bigger rims and enjoy your 15's :D thumb .
 

DemonNeno

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thumpida:
do these rules of thumb apply to all sho years? please clarify. i was under the impression that different years could fit different things. personally my 89has 15" american racing 5 spokes which i hate. i love the look of the 18s but wouldnt the extra weight hinder acceleration and braking?
Gen 1's would require shaved/rolled (shaving them is a better way to go as you wont build up any sludge over time and cause rust) fender lips for rims any wider then 7", for the most part. Another important maintenance item that might restrict you from properly installing a wider rim would be the non-adjustable rear camber on Gen 1's, therefore you'd need to get the eccentrics that allow adjustment or go with a set of tubular rear arms & a reinforced H brace. Grand Prix GTP arms are adaptable to our SHO with some shortening. I'd rather go with a set of aftermarket GTP arms, as it'd truly aid the durability of the arms rather then committing the swap mainly for the adjustments. If you're gonna use money, do it wisely as you'll run out fast with the expensive gallery out there! pcorn

RI-SHO: the sagging rear usually tweaks camber, thus making it easier to tuck in wider rims w/o as much fender rubbage. This isn't always the case, of course... But I can imagine the misery one would suffer with saggin suspension and lower profiled tires for 17's or even 18's... mmm... firm pogo-ness.. lol

EDIT: It's not entirely the sagging that would cause the camber change, however the design of the suspension increases the load on the weak points (flimsy control arms and h-brace.. possibly worn bushings as well) and makes it prone to camber tweak-age. Essential to mention as it could throw someone off.

<small>[ March 29, 2004, 03:28 AM: Message edited by: DemonNeno ]</small>
 
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