And when you realize that when the knock sensors bump up against the same criteria to add timing to the limit of knock and back off again you will realize it doesn't matter if you are above or below the "0" line..... Let that sink in. So I guess you don't let your knock sensors add timing to the base maps like factory either?
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First what's this dylan thing? Some pop culture reference that's flying over my head? Someone please enlighten me
Second, I rarely see more than 0.3 to 0.5 negative KR so your plea about letting the knock sensors add timing is falling on deaf ears.
Now, let's wrap our heads around these basic concepts...
1) 1 degree too much commanded spark does not necessarily equal 1 degree KR. Maybe it's just my imagination but it sure seems to me that advancing 1 degree beyond the knock threshold often resulted in 3 to 4 degrees KR. Over-aggressive timing results in less actual advance and less power than a proper map does, with less safety margin.
2) When a knock event occurs it doesn't effect just that single point. As everyone knows, the KR lingers around a few seconds during the recovery period, again costing power where it probably doesn't need to. This isn't a problem with 0 KR and a good fitting timing curve. And by good fitting curve I mean one that does not produce knock at the same points over and over and over again. I didn't even need to datalog to quickly learn that your tune would knock to kingdom come below 2500 rpm every single time, a moderate KR at a certain point in the midrange was extremely predictable, and then there was the +4 KR after every WOT shift boost spike which felt like an absolute certainty.
3) You preach really hard about peace of mind, which is pretty ironic considering one of my few logs with your tune shows me running +3 to +4 KR for 10 seconds straight. I might add, it's a log Gearhead looked at and just said 'looks good, add octane'. I might also add that it did not trigger an OAR adjust. I couldn't drive anywhere without a nervous eye fixed on my livewire. I know, I'm way too paranoid, but whatever. You may think the zero mark doesn't matter because it's not "really" detonating, but the reality is you can only pull 7.5 degrees and beyond that all bets are off. So yes, where KR runs in relation to "0" does matter. Your tune sacrificed half the available safety net in my car for absolutely no reason. You may be content with having an anvil for a backup parachute, but if something bad happens and shit actually goes south it is NOT OKAY for me.
I don't care if it makes me ignorant - I'll keep my 7.5 degree cushion, thanks.
4) All engines of the same design do not share identical knock tolerances. Snap out of it and open up to the possibility that maybe,
MAYBE your toon just isn't
quite base enough and stop creating conspiracies of ****** gas that only seem to plague your own customers.
Let those sink in, accept that your method doesn't appeal to everyone on this planet, and just shut up already. Listen to the red rocket rider. You're the one who started and keeps persisting this shitshow. Take control of your ego and give up this sad obsession with trying to "educate" me or put me in my place or whatever else you imagine you're doing.