Want better MPG? Change your oil!

[yamapowered]

388,00 miles on original engine and transmission, have changed 3! valve shims,without sludge;consumption is a qt. every 700 miles, mainly valve seals and leaks. Engine has had 10w40 winter, and 20w50 summer, Castro Syntec blend every 3,000 miles. Transmission has Redline ATX still shifts well. Enjoy your 30w, $7 oil, 15k changes and changing your rod bearings and oil pumps.

38,800 miles and your valve seals are dry hard and leaking? must smoke alot at startup and when you are heavy on the throttle.

If I was mistaken at 38k then maybe 388k is what you meant to type in. lets analize your stab at the $7 a quart users.

Hmmm its obvious you dont run your sho hard cause you never made a claim you needed rod bearings at 388k
So you use castro syn and you spend maybe $2 a quart? really dont know dont buy the stuff, anyway at 388k if you owned it from new like you lead on you have changed the oil 129 times.

that cost around lets say $14 each time at 129 times it would cost $1806
lets not forget the quart every 700 miles, lets be fair and cut the miles in half from 388k, so at 194k you started using a quart every 700 miles, so that would be 4 quarts every 3k so add $8 to $14=$22.

now lets divide 129 oil changes in half 64.5
and add in the internal and external leaking engine oil that it consumes
wich would add $516 to $1806 and add up to $2322 spent on cheap oil.

ok now lets play fair, a well kept SHO engine using Amsoil from new to 388k would have had 15 oil changes, cost per oil change $64 thats 2 gallons $22 each and 2 filters $10 each, that would cost $960 with 3 extra quarts each purchase.

Now to understand the advantage is not only the price but you say no sludge? its thats whats visible? have you taken out the pistons and inspected the rings? Ill bet there is a buildup of burnt oil all around the rings and thats where you high oil compsumption is coming from, you also said valve seals, all hard and brittle?

most Amsoil engines dont leak oil and have the ability to keep the rubber and viton seals within the engine in new condition, not to mention the wear is considerablly far less than with conventional oil. :corn:

well you keep driving slow and stopping alot to crawl under ur car to put cheap oil in your car
Javier

 

[wood_e]

388,00 miles on original engine and transmission

 

[cub 1947]

When yours reaches 388K, real mileage, then your argument is valid. Sure the mileage goes up with 0w30 oil , the reason it is recomended is to get the CAFE numbers up, do you think that Ford wants your car to last forever. The Car in question has an 80mm MAF, LPM and exhaust system and suspension mods. and is run in a moderate manner on the street, but I do not go looking for Mustang GTs at stop lights, the fun is 3rd gearin the twisties.

 

[wood_e]

pictures?

 

[matt59]

ok you asked for one sentace here it goes,
Amsoil has a oil change interval of 25,000 miles/1 year, and thier filters last 12,500/ 6 months.

What does Wal Mart oil recommend?
Javier

Wal Mart parts folks(God Bless Em) wouldn't know which end to put the dipstick in, I don't go there for advice I go for the price. More bang for the buck!

My old boss use to sell Amsoil and come to think of it He also sold used cars. Amsoil has a good reputation but why is it so much better than the rest?

I've got 7000 on my Supercoupe and the oil looks good (Wal Mart Synth) My buddy at work says he's not going to change his Synth oil until he hits 10K on his GTP. So are we nuts or just reckless in our attempt to save money?

 

[yamapowered]

you know I catch **** here when I try to post facts, its like the democratic party in here, whenever somebody wants to do good for the people there seems to be more
people that question the valitidy of a product. when in fact the majority of the ones that have the most to say negative about a product have never even used that product.

I used to use conventional oil for years and I felt as iff I was getting the bad end cause every month or so I had to stop and change oil, I used to have a 5.0 mustang
I drove everyday, I put 125k in 2 yrs.
I had to wait a few times to change oil cause I didnt have money to spend at that time
and when I changed the oil it was bad, I knew about A better oil and always knew that if I converted to that oil I would save money over a long period of time.

I finally converted and was pleasantlly suprised to find that what was advertised on the bottle wasnt a pipe dream.
even when I first started the engine I could tell the difference, smoother ,quiet.
once I realized the benefits there was no way I would trust conventional oil
ever again.

since I have been using this oil I have been cutting open all the filters to monitor
the condition of the engines, wich all have been running clean with no contaminents
even after 10k.
now with that said my lil brother has a 93 SHO that has a mystery oil leak that makes smoke but dosent leak on the floor so it uses a small amount of oil 1 quart every 3k
so with that engine we use conventional oil.
when I bought that car we had to rebuild the transmission so I pulled the engine oil pan and replaced the rear main seal, the oil pan was clean with no sludge, the previous owner used conventional oil and was 2nd owner car has 115k
so the engine is in good shape.
like I said earlier I cut open all filters now and at 3k I cut open the filter and there is
crud stuck in all the pleats of the filter all the way around, I know that that is burnt oil that has been caught by the oil filter but that crud is what makes sludge and what cakes on piston ring lands and causes oil compsumption.
boy im gonna catch **** for that statement.

well anyway the oil I use for the past 6 years hasnt made any sludge even after
30k of use with clean unrestricted filters, to me thats great news.
now I understand the same company now makes filters that last one year or 25k.
that makes life easier on me and I will be using it for now on

I know im a robot and I say the same thing everytime.
so I said it again.
we wont leave Iraq till the job is done comprede?
Javier

 

[kevingotashotoo]

so am i doing harm to my engine?,running castrol 5w30?
shoulg i switch to 5w40?

 

[wood_e]

so am i doing harm to my engine?,running castrol 5w30?
shoulg i switch to 5w40?

5w30 is the factory spec, you're fine

 

[yamapowered]

so am i doing harm to my engine?,running castrol 5w30?
shoulg i switch to 5w40?

how cold is it in the morinings when you start your SHO up?
I would stay with 5w30
cold oil takes time to flow
has to heat up before it can
properly lubricate piston rings
and ringlands.
thinner oil has better chance of
lubricating those areas.

look for oil that has the lowest pour point.
Javier

 

[dstig1]

Hi guys! I'm wondering if I pour my Amsoil through one of those Tornado Vortex thingies (and maybe put a couple of those fuel magnetizers in there for good measure), can I extrend my oil change time to once for the life of the car?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[yamapowered]

you will have to do rod bearings, just dont dump the oil reuse it.
its good for extrend oil change once for the life of the car.
all the help you can get is here for ya!
Javier

 

[wood_e]

this thread officially sucks

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

BUAHAHA

I just read thru it a bit...

And I found myself just scrolling past the 500+ word posts made by yamahapowered without even thinking about it.

Then I asked myself WHY?

Well, I for one am a person that only likes to read a book or watch a movie once. :corn:

 

[Mike Kelly]

low temp properties

Pour points are a good stat to know, but the ASTM D-38294 (borderline pump temp) test is a better guide for low temp fluid movement. Mike

 

[SHOtimer]

this thread officially sucks

And we can thank our resident AMSoil dealer for that one... :hpoop:

Doug