Very Interesting Engine Issue

[St Louis SHO]

Sounds like he's trying to buy it or something. There's no way it NEEDS all of that. Could it use it, maybe. But to drive it it doesnt need all of that work. It sounds like he's throwing a "parts grenade" at it hoping it'll fix it.

- James

 

[nothingtoseehere]

SHO Specialists in this community (NESHO, PA SHO SHOP, St Louis SHO, ETC) > Dealer tech and cheaper

 

[Bob Gervais]

Sounds like he's trying to buy it or something. There's no way it NEEDS all of that. Could it use it, maybe. But to drive it it doesnt need all of that work. It sounds like he's throwing a "parts grenade" at it hoping it'll fix it.

- James

I agree. Also of note, the CPS should be included in the 60k service. Small, minor note, but one worth noting.

Take it to Area 91, and discuss between the two of you if it's worth fixing or not.

It sounds to me, with mileage as low as that, that this car was parked on grass, or dirt or something to have that kind of undercarriage rust and no body panel rust.

 

[rubydist]

He said the estimate is about $2700 dollars. ... However, my question now is, what does everyone think, is the car worth saving? I mean for that amount of money I can prolly buy an SHO off the forum in better condition. Any advice? Once again, the SHO has 68k miles on it, interior is in excellent shape, and the tires, pads, rotors, calipers, hard and soft brake lines are brand new. Thanks guys!

I wouldn't put $2700 into a $2000-3000 car unless I really wanted to keep it for a long, long time. Unfortunately, doing all that work does not make it a $5000 car, so if you plan to part with it any time soon, don't spend that much money.

Now, having said that, you can do that for around $700 in parts (if you shop carefully) + whatever labor you need help with, so you don't have to spend nearly that much to do what needs done.

 

[geomarathoner]

I'd say that part about "...the undercarriage has a good amount of rust on it." would be a main factor. What did the mechanic spot that you had not before you got the car? You can likely get a lot lower labor rate than a Ford dealer charges for the immediate work listed. It's not all that old, but if a bunch of other stuff is just ahead, then......wow, it could be a salt-belt disaster just waiting to happen.

 

[Ashley_MTX]

So I was looking at this thread and my first thought was a sensor. Then I read EVERYONE else's posts. I feel like I came late to the party.

 

[Spcymonkey]

Haha no problem. I picked the car up from the dealership and limped it home. I'm trying to find an SHO mechanic to take it to to see what they think about it. I PM'ed Area51 but haven't heard back yet. Are there any other mechanics in the York/Harrisburg/Baltimore area that might be able to help me out?

 

[Spcymonkey]

Okay so an update on this issue. My good buddy Kevin (MRECoolgar) and his friend Matt just finished doing the full 60k service on the car yesterday. The following was replaced:

All Belts, Water Pump, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor, Plugs, and Wires, as well as checking the shims and replacing the neccesary gaskets.

As soon as Kevin went to test the car today, the exact same issue happened.

I purchased all of those items new, so for the time being I'm ruling out any of those items as the cause. We haven't pulled the codes yet but we will and see what it finds.

Anyone else have an input as to what it might be at this point? At this point we can say that the inital issue that I had with the car, will reliably happen EVERY TIME the car is driven, so there has to be an underlying cause to the issue, since it's like clockwork that the issue will occur within the first 10 minutes of the car being driven.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! As soon as Kevin can pull the codes, since the car is at his place, we can post those and see where that leads us as well. Thanks!

 

[zblackbeast]

Id start playing in your fuel system.. Replace your fuel filter and run some fuel system cleaner like sea foam through on a tank of gas! Also, it wouldn't hurt to run a can through a vacuum line in the motor either.. Looks like your going in the rigth direction!

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Spcymonkey, have you guys checked fuel pressure?

How about test the TPS and MAF?


_______________________



You guys that are talking about whether or not the car is worth saving, based upon part cost vs vehicle value really make me laugh.

If all of us based our repair and modifications on such logic, this forum wouldnt even exist. As every SHO would be sitting in junkyards, needing nothing more than a clutch, or some other fairly expensive repair.

Fact of the matter is, these cars are not worth much.

The REAL kicker is this though....

It takes a MUCH more expensive car to replace a SHO.

So, is the car worth fixing? Well, would you rather spend a couple of grand to repair it and keep it on the road, or have 5 years of car payments?

 

[Spcymonkey]

Yeah the fuel filter is on the list to do, just haven't had the time yet to install it. However, I doubt that is the issue because the issue seems to reliable too be something like a filter, since once you struggle and get the car turned back on and started after the issue triggers, the issue won't happen again until after the car has sat for some time and cooled down, which seems to indicate that the fuel isn't the issue, or else it would keep doing it every time the car starts regardless.

Hopefully once the codes are pulled we can identify which sensor is giving me all these headaches!

 

[zblackbeast]

Not really.. Youve replaced almost every sensor that could have caused that issue before. I still vote for cleaning your maf, replacing your filter and running some cleaner through it.

 

[hawkeye18]

Flamethrower.

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

Flamethrower.

Quoted for win

 

[stangracr67]

If there is an Oreillys auto parts store around take ur DIS and have it tested. Pull ur codes. Shophoenixproject.com will explain how. get ur codes and search the forums.

 

[Spcymonkey]

Okay so here is the update:

Replaced both 02 sensors, fuel filter, cleaned the MAF.

When the car was checked for codes, the only code that came up was #114 - Intake Air Temp.

Because we have a massive amount of snow up here in PA, we haven't been able to drive the car yet to see if the problem is fixed or not. However, if it's not, any suggestions as to what else it might be?

 

[lowc]

presure regulator mine was doing a very simular thing then it started back firering after i put the regulator in ended up needing the coil after also check and make sure all ur vacums are good and in the right spots

 

[ryan21288]

i had a similar problem just last week ended up being the MAF. Definitely check that out my car also threw the intake air temp code. Then randomly threw a IAC code after about 3 days of having a high idle. Replaced the IAC and the car ran perfect.

 

[1995mtxsho]

Also, the mechanic (certified SHO specialist btw, not just some yahoo) said...

I didn't know there was an official certification for the SHO... if I had known that I would be rich by now!

Honestly I read that as "A mechanic that may have done a tune up on 'one of those supercharged 5.0L S.H.O.s' way back in the olden days" kinda thing.


:shakehead

 

[Spcymonkey]

Actually, I believe back in the day Ford did have a special mechanics certification for the SHO. The only reason I know this is because the mechanic at the dealership where I will occasionally take my SHO to owns mutliple SHO's (I think three currently) and he's the one that explained it to me. So, I could be wrong, but I'd like to believe he's not quite that big of a liar.

I didn't know there was an official certification for the SHO... if I had known that I would be rich by now!

Honestly I read that as "A mechanic that may have done a tune up on 'one of those supercharged 5.0L S.H.O.s' way back in the olden days" kinda thing.


:shakehead