Uh oh. Cranks but won’t start. When it does start it died at idle. 92 SHO MTX

[Zpak]

Was your temperature gauge showing incorrectly too? Or fans failing to go? Or did it just not start. My gauges and fans seems to be fine. Also the issue is causing mine to die. I will try pulling that if I can figure out where it is.


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Gauge and fans were good. The gauge at least in my truck is a separate sending unit not associated with the temp sensor. I could get it to start hot…sometimes, by keeping the peddle to the floor while I cranked. After it did run, however poorly, it was obvious it was running pig rich.

 

[loganbro28]

Is it possible it could have been low coolant?? I added coolant to my reservoir last night because it was pretty low…

I ran tests this morning warmed it up a ton, ran both tests multiple times. I pulled a 411 idle higher than expected but I think it was because I hit the gas at the wrong time.

Kept firing up and running smooth even after letting the block sit and the heat settling in (which was usually when it died before)

So either a one off and it will stop workin again or it just needed more coolant. Lol we’ll see


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[loganbro28]

Ok so it wasn’t the coolant (i was feeling hopeful) i drove my buddy home warmed it up. Stalled it at his house. Wouldn’t start. Fiddled with the temp gauge harness, ICRM, DIS then it fired up.

Almost got home and it died and the engine light came on (not because I stalled it this time). Messed with the connections again and got it to fire. Made it home and let it idle. Didn’t die.

So I ran and got my scanner and ran multiple tests again. Lo and behold I now have the codes 211 and 542. Its worth mentioned the engine was very warm but stopped stalling and fired up 4 separate times when I was home.

So looks like the 211 PIP code could confirm that I should investigate the Crankshaft position sensor?

I cant do any work on it for another 8 days so I’m going to try and make a gameplan for when my weekend rolls around.


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[luigisho]

So looks like the 211 PIP code could confirm that I should investigate the Crankshaft position sensor?

I cant do any work on it for another 8 days so I’m going to try and make a gameplan for when my weekend rolls around.


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Yes. That is the highest probability item to address

 

[loganbro28]

Well, I think we fixed it. We replaced the crank position sensor, water pump, main seal, and timing belt. It seemed that the old CPS was the issue. After installing the first CPS backwards and subsequently ruining it, we finally installed it properly (which we were able to do without removing the timing belt, or the upper two timing belt covers.) It fired right up and I just finished driving her for about an hour. There was no intermittent stalling and dying like before which leads me to believe the faulty CPS was causing the issue.

word from the wise, make sure you don't do it backward, and use a feeler gauge set to .8mm to space the CPS properly. good luck anyone attempting the same repair.

 

[Devin]

This is the same work I'm going to have to do in a few days. Thanks for sharing your experience.

 

[FastCAD]

This is the same work I'm going to have to do in a few days. Thanks for sharing your experience.

This is the same work I'm going to have to do in a few days. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Check this condition before u rip every thing apart. If less ohms than ten u need a cps. Check this condition again after new cps install before u button it all up. This is the barrel connector to the dis front pass. side stuffed in the manifold crossover.
Best to ya.

 

[chris9595]

SOLVED: The issue was a faulty Crank Position Sensor.





So this issue has been happening for a few weeks now. I go to show my friends the car and it won’t start. I wiggle around the CCM because I took it off to crank the engine before I fired it up for the first time after changing rod bearings to get some oil on the engine. Then it fired up. Ok thought I solved it..

Then it does it again for my brother so I told him to clean it. Keeps dying… we tightened it down. Cleaned and re tightened the TPS.. ot fired up! Then died after like 10 minutes of idle.

I noticed the idle air tubing is pretty burned through in the engine bay. Could that be the issue? The car runs great when it starts up and drives but now it won’t start!

It starts giving issues after its warmed up a little bit then parked and tried to start up again.

Wondering what I should do next…


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Change the bad tubes.