Uh oh. Cranks but won’t start. When it does start it died at idle. 92 SHO MTX

[loganbro28]

So this issue has been happening for a few weeks now. I go to show my friends the car and it won’t start. I wiggle around the CCM because I took it off to crank the engine before I fired it up for the first time after changing rod bearings to get some oil on the engine. Then it fired up. Ok thought I solved it..

Then it does it again for my brother so I told him to clean it. Keeps dying… we tightened it down. Cleaned and re tightened the TPS.. ot fired up! Then died after like 10 minutes of idle.

I noticed the idle air tubing is pretty burned through in the engine bay. Could that be the issue? The car runs great when it starts up and drives but now it won’t start!

It starts giving issues after its warmed up a little bit then parked and tried to start up again.

Wondering what I should do next…


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[loganbro28]

Ok so I was able to find the piece of paper that has some codes that got scanned by my mechanic.

KOEO: Fast or first memory (can’t tell)
332: EGR - valve (can’t tell exactly)
542: Fuel Pump CKT
KOER: No Code

So now I got a better idea of what to try first… Vaccum leaks and maybe a new CCM?

Let me know what you guys think I should start with, I am new to this type of maintenance…


Lol he did try to charge me $150 but I just told him no here’s 50 and thats too much anyway… Old doug just retired. he was literally right down the street which was convenient but man was he mercenary!






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[loganbro28]

So I started up from cold. Started good. Ran it hard driving around for 25 minutes or so. Soon as I parked it and it was idling it died and wasn’t able to start again.


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[zoomlater]

Maybe your crank sensor is failing, do you know when it was last changed

 

[loganbro28]

Maybe your crank sensor is failing, do you know when it was last changed

Not sure when it was changed last. I guess I’ll start with that.


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[zoomlater]

Not sure when it was changed last. I guess I’ll start with that.


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There is a way to test it, use the search function to find the thread

 

[BaySHO Performance]

If the CPS is failing, you should have got a 211 code. I suggest you pull the codes yourself to check. No need to spend money having a mechanic do it:

EEC Self Test Procedure - V6SHO

wiki.wikisho.com

 

[loganbro28]

I noticed that when It died and I try to crank it again, that the tachometer does move as it should. Someone said that means it is likely not the CPS. Thank you for the link I will buy a code reader and try to pull the codes.

I just turned it on and warmed it up. Again its only when its warm that it malfunctions.


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[BaySHO Performance]

The tach is driven by the camshaft sensor, not the CPS. A non working tach is a clear sign that the camshaft sensor needs replacing.

Per Wiki SHO, you can pull codes with a paper clip, but if you want a code reader which makes the job easier, get one of these:

Amazon.com

 

[loganbro28]

The tach is driven by the camshaft sensor, not the CPS. A non working tach is a clear sign that the camshaft sensor needs replacing.

Per Wiki SHO, you can pull codes with a paper clip, but if you want a code reader which makes the job easier, get one of these:

Amazon.com

Oh ok thank you! Got the acronym confused.


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[Devin]

CPS = camshaft position sensor
CKS = crankshaft position sensor

 

[BaySHO Performance]

CPS usually refers to the crankshaft position sensor. Camshaft sensor is usually referred to just that.

 

[FastCAD]

So this issue has been happening for a few weeks now. I go to show my friends the car and it won’t start. I wiggle around the CCM because I took it off to crank the engine before I fired it up for the first time after changing rod bearings to get some oil on the engine. Then it fired up. Ok thought I solved it..

Then it does it again for my brother so I told him to clean it. Keeps dying… we tightened it down. Cleaned and re tightened the TPS.. ot fired up! Then died after like 10 minutes of idle.

I noticed the idle air tubing is pretty burned through in the engine bay. Could that be the issue? The car runs great when it starts up and drives but now it won’t start!

It starts giving issues after its warmed up a little bit then parked and tried to start up again.

Wondering what I should do next…


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when crank sensors go bad sometimes they go erratic and may start then not start then start then die for good. before you start spending money and time on parts do this first (see attachment). if the crank sensor can not pass the test then it is bad.
p.s. run the same test on the newly installed sensor before you button everything back up. the connector is round and connected to the front of the dis/pass. side.
p.s.s. Note this test is "engine off-key on"

 

[BaySHO Performance]

when crank sensors go bad sometimes they go erratic and may start then not start then start then die for good. before you start spending money and time on parts do this first (see attachment). if the crank sensor can not pass the test then it is bad.
p.s. run the same test on the newly installed sensor before you button everything back up. the connector is round and connected to the front of the dis/pass. side.
p.s.s. Note this test is "engine off-key on"

You might want to see if you have a code 211 first. If so, no need for these tests.

 

[loganbro28]

I ordered one this morning and it got here already. I am currently reading and annotating the manual. Hoping this will give me some good info.


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[loganbro28]

Well I ran the KOEO and KOER tests with my dad about 4 times each and the only code it threw was 116( coolant temp higher or lower than expected) the first time because I think the engine wasn’t warm enough yet… so we jammed out in the kicking sound system for a minute and then tried to take it for a rip and it didn’t want to start again

The less she runs the more I want to drive her!!


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[Zpak]

I don’t own this generation SHO so I don’t know if this applies but my ‘96 f150 had the same symptoms. Started and drove fine but wouldn’t restart warm. The temp sensor was bad. They die either reading way hot or way cold. That information is relayed to the computer to tell it how much gas it should take to start. In my case it thought it was cold while hot and flooded it with gas.

If so equipped, when it won’t start pull the plug connector on the sensor and try starting it. No information is better than bad information.

 

[zoomlater]

You should test the current sensor to see if it's really the problem or not. If it is, just replacing it takes a bit of work. Usually if the crank sensor fails, it could be due to the water pump leaking on it. So you don't want to just replace the sensor and have your new crank sensor fail again. If you are going to do all that work, you should consider the full front 60K service where you replace the timing belt, water pump, and engine seals. You can read up on it to see what the job involves. Do a search for SHO Phoenix Project on this forum.

Try looking under the car at the bottom of the water pump/lower timing cover to see if you can see evidence of leakage in that area. Take a look at the water pump. Does it look like the original one that came with the car or does it look new. It could have already been replaced and perhaps the previous owner already did the service.

 

[loganbro28]

I don’t own this generation SHO so I don’t know if this applies but my ‘96 f150 had the same symptoms. Started and drove fine but wouldn’t restart warm. The temp sensor was bad. They die either reading way hot or way cold. That information is relayed to the computer to tell it how much gas it should take to start. In my case it thought it was cold while hot and flooded it with gas.

If so equipped, when it won’t start pull the plug connector on the sensor and try starting it. No information is better than bad information.

Was your temperature gauge showing incorrectly too? Or fans failing to go? Or did it just not start. My gauges and fans seems to be fine. Also the issue is causing mine to die. I will try pulling that if I can figure out where it is.


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[loganbro28]

You should test the current sensor to see if it's really the problem or not. If it is, just replacing it takes a bit of work. Usually if the crank sensor fails, it could be due to the water pump leaking on it. So you don't want to just replace the sensor and have your new crank sensor fail again. If you are going to do all that work, you should consider the full front 60K service where you replace the timing belt, water pump, and engine seals. You can read up on it to see what the job involves. Do a search for SHO Phoenix Project on this forum.

Try looking under the car at the bottom of the water pump/lower timing cover to see if you can see evidence of leakage in that area. Take a look at the water pump. Does it look like the original one that came with the car or does it look new. It could have already been replaced and perhaps the previous owner already did the service.

Thank you for the details I will try and inspect it later today. Hopefully I can find my multimeter too.


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