trouble starting

[RGuy]

I just bought my car today and have trouble starting it.

when I try to start the engine, it will turn over and over, but won't crank/run unless I press the gas pedal a little. The prevous owner told me to press the gas pedal before trying to start the engine. Is this normal?

Thanks.

Rob

 

[wood_e]

thats never normal. I believe your cam position sensor might be shot... but I'm definitley no expert. Have you checked your codes?

 

[RGuy]

the check engine light comes on intermitently but I haven't had a chance to check it yet. The previous owner had CPS replaced the first of the year with the 100k maintenance.

Rob

 

[wood_e]

Sometimes the cam position and the crank position sensors get confused. Maybe the crank weas replaced and not the cam? Anyway... check the codes and see what you get....

 

[masho95]

If you are talking about the camshaft position sensor (CMP) then how many miles ago was it replaced? I just had my CMP fail in only 30K miles. The orignal Ford one lasted until 60K and I replaced it with another Ford unit. This time at a little over 90K miles I replaced it with the Autozone equivalent, and I'll have to see how long this one lasts. I had no drivability issues with the recent CMP failure other than a intermittant CE light and very occasional hard starts (hard to press the gas to start the car). But I don't know if the hard starts are in any way related to the 214 code the computer was throwing.

 

[RGuy]

I pulled the codes today and got 12 (idle speed) and 72 (no MAP/MAF).

can you help with this?

Thanks.

Rob

 

[wood_e]

Make sure your MAF sensor properly connected. Try reseting your idle speed. You should find instructions if you do a search.

 

[projectSHO89]

Ignore all the above. While well-intentioned, it is all incorrect. Your Idle Air Bypass (IAB) valve is not working.

By having to crack the throttle partially while starting, you are performing the task that the computer is expecting the IAB valve to perform. BTW, this procedure is suggested in the Owner's manual.

Your receipt of the code 12 is verification that the IAB is not functional when the computer expected it to be. You can attept a cleaning of the valve to see if that fixes the problem, but be prepared to spend the $55-60 at AutoZone for a replacement. Note: This part is also referred as the Idle Speed Control/Bypass Air (ISC/BPA) or the Throttle Bypass valve.

As for the 72 code, it may be due to a diry MAF sensor or might have been caused by an insufficent throttle application during the "goose test".

Steve

 

[wood_e]

^ knows a lot more than me..... cry

 

[RGuy]

Thanks Steve.

If the IAB is the unit mounted behind the TB and has/had 2 coolant lines going to it, the previous owner replaced it in Jan. 03 when the 100k maintenace was performed. I guess I could take it off and make sure it's clean anyway.

Rob

 

[RGuy]

I was driving today and it seems that the "check engine" light comes on when I let off the gas pedal for the most part.

I assume the hard starting and the CE light is related.

any thoughts???

Rob

 

[AutoSHO]

Sounds like your MAF sensor is dirty. It isnt sending a strong enough signal to the computer, and it trips a code. Just my guess.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

RGuy:
I was driving today and it seems that the "check engine" light comes on when I let off the gas pedal for the most part.

I assume the hard starting and the CE light is related.

any thoughts???

Rob

You have your answer above. Replace the IAC/IAB valve. Cleaning it isn't likely to work at this point if it's throwing a code. Sometimes even relatively new parts fail. Replace the IAC, clear the codes, and that should solve your starting problem. If you continue to get a CEL for the 72 code, then you'll need to address that, but lets take it one step at a time.

 

[RGuy]

Thanks guys.

 

[RGuy]

I took the IAB off this weekend to clean it but it looked fine. In fact, it looked brand new.

I tried to test the unit by putting power to it in order to make sure the little plunger/piston thingy was operating. I could hear what sounded like the little motor operating, but the plunger/piston didn't move.


Is it possible to test the IAB? If so, should I see the plunger/piston moving?

By the way, the codes were 172 and 214, not what I stated earlier. ...my mistake.

Lately, it seems harder to crank even while cracking the TB open a little.

Rob

 

[JoeHoe_SHO]

Yeah...check your MAF connections.

Would a really dirty air filter do this?

Not sure at all, just trying to help shrug

 

[RGuy]

MAF is clean and new air filter.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

RGuy:
I took the IAB off this weekend to clean it but it looked fine. In fact, it looked brand new.

I tried to test the unit by putting power to it in order to make sure the little plunger/piston thingy was operating. I could hear what sounded like the little motor operating, but the plunger/piston didn't move.


Is it possible to test the IAB? If so, should I see the plunger/piston moving?

By the way, the codes were 172 and 214, not what I stated earlier. ...my mistake.

Lately, it seems harder to crank even while cracking the TB open a little.

Rob

You just tested it. Now you can feel better about replacing it. Sounds like you also need a CID sensor. About $30 for the Wells F134 at AutoZone.

 

[RGuy]

I replaced the IAB and the problem is still there. It's not as bad as before, but it's still there.

Not to long ago, I checked the codes and got #214 with the engine off, not not with engine running. After clearing the codes, it hasn't shown back up. Would code #214, have something to do with difficulty starting?

Aside from the difficulty starting, it runs great.

Rob

 

[masho95]

The 214 code is for the CMP sensor and definitely would cause hard starting problems. Try replacing the CMP sensor and you should be all set.