tranny problem deluxe

[aleksander j]

please help me guyes..or girls.
the winter have gotten well cold, and i desided to change the oil in the gearbox because it was a bit hard to get into gear.. NOT MUCH then..
but....

after a good amount of money and 3 liters of SAE 80 something 4 oil, it was even more hard ti run.. it jumps out of gear (new engine mount in front, back is fine, havent checked the tranny mount).. it`s very hard to get into gear both up and down espesialy 1-2-3rd gear..

i`m thinking.
-bad cluth
-bad synch
-fatal Fu**.,.

please help me anyone
u can even call me..
gmt+1hour +4741277234 shoot

 

[shojuan]

You want to use a Dexron III or Ford type F ATF in your MTX gearbox. A synthetic like redline D4 or MTL should work well in the cold too. My 89 didn't like straight redline D4, so I mixed it 50% with redline MTL.

Rick

 

[twr]

shojuan:
You want to use a Dexron III or Ford type F ATF in your MTX gearbox. A synthetic like redline D4 or MTL should work well in the cold too. My 89 didn't like straight redline D4, so I mixed it 50% with redline MTL.

Rick

I second that. There was a discuss on shotech about this, As I recall the the sulfer in gear oil will attack the brass syncros (not good), so it may be too late already.

<small>[ November 12, 2002, 11:53 AM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>

 

[aleksander j]

HELP HELP HELP

 

[aleksander j]

wHAt syncro sulfar????????????????

 

[sdpatt]

YOU PUT THE WRONG LUBRICANT IN THE TRANSAXLE!

You must get as much of that heavy weight gear oil out of the transaxle case as possible and refill it with the proper ATF Type F or Mercon III. It may take several removal-fills to dilute the gear oil to the point where the transaxle will shift correctly. Did you chance to look at the owner's manual for the correct fluid for the manual tranaxle? Please do so for other fluid changes.

 

[aleksander j]

how much not good????

 

[aleksander j]

i did look yes..
but couldn`t remember the name when i was at the garage.. i calle a amcar shop for help, he said a t4 80 sae..

should i **** my self now or can it be fixed?
emergency?????

 

[twr]

aleksander j:
wHAt syncro sulfar????????????????

Sulfer is in the Gear Oil.
Brass is in the Syncros (unless you have 93 or newer tranny)

Sulfer + Brass = Bad

Drain, refill with ATF, Drive 50 miles, drain refill with ATF, drive 100 miles, drain, refill ATF, drive 100 miles, drain, inspect fluid, if it doesn't look like the stuff that went in (darker in color) repeat again.

If the shifting doesn't improve - Take loaded .357, place to side of tranny and pull the trigger.

<small>[ November 12, 2002, 01:06 PM: Message edited by: twrsho ]</small>

 

[aleksander j]

Is it a big operation to change the syncros ?

 

[shojuan]

sdpatt:
YOU PUT THE WRONG LUBRICANT IN THE TRANSAXLE!

You must get as much of that heavy weight gear oil out of the transaxle case as possible and refill it with the proper ATF Type F or Mercon III. It may take several removal-fills to dilute the gear oil to the point where the transaxle will shift correctly. Did you chance to look at the owner's manual for the correct fluid for the manual tranaxle? Please do so for other fluid changes.

Sulfur is used in GL-5 lubricants for extreme pressure protection (not necessary in most manual trannys). If you put in a GL4 there is no sulfur. If you put in a GL5 then your brass syncro life would be cut roughly in half. They aren't going to corrode into worthlessness overnight. I seriousnly doubt you will need to do a bunch of dilutions like Scott says before you regain good shifting. Just suck out as much as you can and refill with a proper dexron III or type F compatible fluid. If that doesn't work so well then try a different compatible fluid. Don't worry, your tranny isn't going to die from this.

Rick

 

[aleksander j]

i love u rick, u saved my night`s sleep.. i`ll do it first in the morning.
do you think i have damaged it a lot ?

 

[aleksander j]

the guy said it was a something 4 probably GL4..
why is i so tha my manual transaxle needs automatic transaxle fluid??

god help me trough this

 

[shojuan]

aleksander j:
the guy said it was a something 4 probably GL4..
why is i so tha my manual transaxle needs automatic transaxle fluid??

god help me trough this

A lot of cars specify automatic transaxle fluid in manual transmissions. It's not uncommon. It's not so much that the tranny gears were designed for it but it's to take advantage of the low temperature flow characteristics of ATF to improve shifting in cold climates. A good synthetic GL4 like redline MTL will protect your gears better than an ATF. MTL is compatible with Dexron III and Ford Type F. If you can't find that locally then see if you can find GM Syncromesh fluid. A lot of people like that.

I don't think you damaged your transmission. There's not a problem until there is a problem so don't worry about it for now.

Rick

 

[aleksander j]

thanx SHOuls..
u gave me the biggest hart jump this year..
feel much better now, how the fu** do u all know this, am i dumb?''
probably thanx for the help anyway beer

 

[aleksander j]

the problem is solved..
3,1 litres of went out and new oil in.. runs like a goose on holiday..

 

[shojuan]

Good going! thumbs_u

Rick

 

[sdpatt]

Excellent! Sorry to have frightened you, but you should learn a valuable lesson from this about checking the service manual or the experience of the SHO Forum for items that you are not sure of. Drive safely.

 

[drivinhard]

I'll throw in my .02 and say I'm not a big fan of MTL on the MTX-IV. The gear **** passages in the shafts, and the "sling ****" design of the diff ring gear and passages probably work better with ATF. A good organic (or synth ATF if the rings have some age on them) is what is spec'd for these things, and seems to provide the best braking action for the synchro blocking rings. I think the MTL usage came about since the early 89's and some 90's came with "brass" rings for 1-5, and that can help shifting on older rings where the friction ridges are starting to wear.

I'll put my smooth shiftin' fleet (with good rings and ATF) against any MTL tranny out there. My 92 (89 rebuilt tranny, 150k w/ organic ATF and "fiber" rings) is as good as they get.

IMHO the rings should be considered a wear item, replaced at over 100k when you are doing a clutch. It's pretty easy to crack open the case, and just replace the rings with new ones. Even on a tranny that's been taking care of, fresh rings with new fluid make a difference. Also a fluid change every 10-15k is a good idea to. With a drain plug, it's as easy and changing oil. Cheap insurance and keeps the shifting crisp and gives the stock diff pinion shafts all the help they can get. The parts are pretty cheap to. If you can do a clutch, you can change your own rings. There is a new how-to MTX-IV rebuild video available that'll walk you right through it.