Traction issues

[Brandon78]

Alrighty then..... getting back on the entire point of this thread. Traction issues.

To the OP,

I'd start with inspecting your tires 1st. Tread life remaining. Type of tire and what it's ratings and/or rated use are.

It goes w/o saying that you'll achieve optimal results on dry pavement. Enough said on that.

Next up? Check suspension components. Especially if the SHO is used to you. Generally shocks/struts should be replaced every 50k or so. Better springs and/or shocks/struts in an aftermarket offering would prove beneficial in minimizing weight transfer. These cars experience quite a bit of lift on the front end because the weight transfers to the rear which squats and cause front tires to come up.

That said, also play with tire pressures. Raise them in the rear. Lower them in the front. This platform is not true AWD as one believes. Rather they are AWD when the cars electronics sense the need for it. 70% of the power is driven to the front axle. The remaining 30% dumps to the rear.

Change fluids. I can't stress this enough. Oil, trans, PTU and RDU.

Ummm what else? Oh, check out the aftermarket offerings as it pertains to motor/trans mounts.

Finally, if tuned, find out what parameters have been changed. Shift points. Torque management, etc. Discuss, discuss, discuss with you tuner. This is important. Explain any concerns and see if they can address. They'll likely (if they're good, and/or genuinely concerned) will suggest some of the very same things I have.

Perhaps others can chime in where I left off and provide some sound suggestions for 'ya.

If your AWD idiot lights aren't illuminating, it's a safe bet to say your actual systems are fine though. So not sure if that provides you some solace. But start with some, or all of the above, and go from there.

Good luck and enjoy!

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I appreciate it. Not sure what happened with this thread and my 3 strikes as stated by someone lol...anywho I'm running livernois tune and seems some are very against this. Tires are decent goodyear eagles (haven't been a fan) have 40ish% tread was not aware of changing the struts at 50,000. Traction light did light up like crazy. My original thought was just given the weight, the awd system it would be difficult to spin on a roll and was concerned of a more serious issue. As far as fluids did the trans yesterday, today is the rear end and down pipes. Ptu...will be next weekend lol thanks for all the solid advice!

 

[SM105K]

You arent sure what happened? You are an *******. Use the search button, and follow the advice.

 

[Brandon78]

You have like 3 strikes against you just in this thread. There are posts all about LMS, traction issues, and known AWD issues. Do you have any idea how it works in our cars? It seems like you dont. You didnt take the time to search. Then Luigi makes a joke, you act like an *******. He even asked questions, you didn't respond. I call you out, and even ask more questions. You have yet to respond to those. Then you start rambling about LMS...lol.

Ok, I'm over this...3 strikes I guess im out. I responded to Luigi even after all the smartass remarks. Oh no please dont call me out on a taurus forum! And I know how this platform works, hence my concern for traction and curious if I had a problem. Let it go

 

[Brandon78]

You arent sure what happened? You are an *******. Use the search button, and follow the advice.

Did you stay up all night to respond?

 

[BamSHO]

Ok adding my 2 cents now.

Brandon, what type tire are you running, A/S or Summer tire? What RPM are you leaving at? Trying on wet/damp roads, not the best idea. I've done alot of drag racing, including bracket racing with my 2012, and 2013.

Tire pressure and launch RPM are key with these cars. You CAN still blow the front tires off, tire shake( which can be very bad, I've experienced it ) depending on track conditions, prep.

I've used to run LMS tunes and no issue, but after hereing there issues the last couple years from my friends I switched to Gearhead.

As BPD stated earlier and I totally agree, maintenance is key on these cars, ESPECIALLY fluid changes. I recommend using high quality oils. Pay the extra. Most of us use Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline.

 

[Brandon78]

Ok adding my 2 cents now.

Brandon, what type tire are you running, A/S or Summer tire? What RPM are you leaving at? Trying on wet/damp roads, not the best idea. I've done alot of drag racing, including bracket racing with my 2012, and 2013.

Tire pressure and launch RPM are key with these cars. You CAN still blow the front tires off, tire shake( which can be very bad, I've experienced it ) depending on track conditions, prep.

I've used to run LMS tunes and no issue, but after hereing there issues the last couple years from my friends I switched to Gearhead.

As BPD stated earlier and I totally agree, maintenance is key on these cars, ESPECIALLY fluid changes. I recommend using high quality oils. Pay the extra. Most of us use Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline.

Thanks bam, I'm running good year eagle rs a2 all season tire with about 40ish psi (daily driver)

I didnt even attempt to leave from a stop I tried at 35mph and 55mph both had front spinning. and torque steer. Didnt have any tire shake just spinning.

Maintenance is well kept, I use OEM ford fluids though.

Using the new "mytouch calibrator" from livernois

 

[SM105K]

Hello all, so I started putting on the go fast parts got most on today tune, 3 bar map, cooler thermostat and cai. Had to take for a spin and can not get traction even on a roll...granted it just got done raining. But given the weight and awd I'm concerned something is wrong with my awd system. Any one else have this problem? Tried the roll at 35 and 55 still broke traction.

Refer to the bolded statement.

Ok, I'm over this...3 strikes I guess im out. I responded to Luigi even after all the smartass remarks. Oh no please dont call me out on a taurus forum! And I know how this platform works, hence my concern for traction and curious if I had a problem. Let it go

You are literally the typical cookie cutter person who stumbles onto an SHO. You probably went online and bought into the first thing you saw...LMS.

You didn't do any other research and went with it because they seemed like a good company. Then you have problems and come on here and act like an *******, when you get made fun of because of your bolded statement.

Best advice...put your car back on a stock tune and see if you have the same issues with traction. If you don't...then the RDU is most likely working. I would assume something in your LMS junk tune is probably the culprit.

Next throw your LMS tune and tuning device in the trash. Get with the numerous other tuners AJPTurbo, Gearhead, Ortiz, Unleashed and get a better tune.

 

[StealBlueSho]

That's what I had thought, people must be stir crazy lol I'm from mahoning county originally...moved here for a job. They have a few drag strips and tracks kinda local. Have to add my down pipes and I will be done for a bit. Recently bought livernois goods and he said they are in the works of making an intercooler sounds the same as gearhead. I kind of would want a front mount but beggers can't be choosers!

This is interesting...

Livernois has repeated over and over again that the stock intercooler was more than efficient for these cars... so much so they made an issue of it when I asked them to install bigger turbos and dyno tune it...

I’m sure if you dig around you will find posts of them talking about how efficient the stock IC is... which is laughable when ambient is 72F outside and your ending your 1/4 mile runs at 140F+ at the intake manifold....

They also said that these cars didn’t need a catch can either and even cited their Ford connections stating it wasn’t needed... until they released one... then after a decade of poo pooing them they said it was now a must have for the EB’s...

I’m sure similar will be done with the LMS Winter Storm Air Cooler (or whatever they brand it)....

This is one of my biggest issues with LMS... if they don’t sell it, it’s completely not needed, in fact, it’s so not needed that they cite Ford articles they hand pick.... but once they develop something (or better yet, pay an exuberant fee to rebrand other vendors stuff) its a must have item... always has been... didn’t ya know!?

 

[SM105K]

Thanks bam, I'm running good year eagle rs a2 all season tire with about 40ish psi (daily driver)

I didnt even attempt to leave from a stop I tried at 35mph and 55mph both had front spinning. and torque steer. Didnt have any tire shake just spinning.

Maintenance is well kept, I use OEM ford fluids though.

Using the new "mytouch calibrator" from livernois

40 psi on wet roads is most likely your problem.

 

[ridered74]

This is interesting...

Livernois has repeated over and over again that the stock intercooler was more than efficient for these cars... so much so they made an issue of it when I asked them to install bigger turbos and dyno tune it...

I’m sure if you dig around you will find posts of them talking about how efficient the stock IC is... which is laughable when ambient is 72F outside and your ending your 1/4 mile runs at 140F+ at the intake manifold....

They also said that these cars didn’t need a catch can either and even cited their Ford connections stating it wasn’t needed... until they released one... then after a decade of poo pooing them they said it was now a must have for the EB’s...

I’m sure similar will be done with the LMS Winter Storm Air Cooler (or whatever they brand it)....

This is one of my biggest issues with LMS... if they don’t sell it, it’s completely not needed, in fact, it’s so not needed that they cite Ford articles they hand pick.... but once they develop something (or better yet, pay an exuberant fee to rebrand other vendors stuff) its a must have item... always has been... didn’t ya know!?

Winter storm air cooler.....hahahahaha!!!

You may have just named it for them.

 

[Brandon78]

Refer to the bolded statement.



You are literally the typical cookie cutter person who stumbles onto an SHO. You probably went online and bought into the first thing you saw...LMS.

You didn't do any other research and went with it because they seemed like a good company. Then you have problems and come on here and act like an *******, when you get made fun of because of your bolded statement.

Best advice...put your car back on a stock tune and see if you have the same issues with traction. If you don't...then the RDU is most likely working. I would assume something in your LMS junk tune is probably the culprit.

Next throw your LMS tune and tuning device in the trash. Get with the numerous other tuners AJPTurbo, Gearhead, Ortiz, Unleashed and get a better tune.

Actually took me 2 years to finally pull the trigger for the tune. Seemed the most popular at the time of doing research. Alot of people are biased on anything you read.

Dryer today, I will air down and see how it goes.

Can we be friends now?

 

[Brandon78]

This is interesting...

Livernois has repeated over and over again that the stock intercooler was more than efficient for these cars... so much so they made an issue of it when I asked them to install bigger turbos and dyno tune it...

I’m sure if you dig around you will find posts of them talking about how efficient the stock IC is... which is laughable when ambient is 72F outside and your ending your 1/4 mile runs at 140F+ at the intake manifold....

They also said that these cars didn’t need a catch can either and even cited their Ford connections stating it wasn’t needed... until they released one... then after a decade of poo pooing them they said it was now a must have for the EB’s...

I’m sure similar will be done with the LMS Winter Storm Air Cooler (or whatever they brand it)....

This is one of my biggest issues with LMS... if they don’t sell it, it’s completely not needed, in fact, it’s so not needed that they cite Ford articles they hand pick.... but once they develop something (or better yet, pay an exuberant fee to rebrand other vendors stuff) its a must have item... always has been... didn’t ya know!?

Correct about re-branding Down pipes are rebranded "American Racing"....damn I hope I just didnt waste $2,500

 

[Zpak]

“Winter Storm! Others got jack on our CAC!”

 

[StealBlueSho]

Correct about re-branding Down pipes are rebranded "American Racing"....damn I hope I just didnt waste $2,500

I mean... I wouldn’t say wastes money... you got downpipes, cai, tstat, plugs, and tune right?

Not bad.

 

[bpd1151]

Correct about re-branding Down pipes are rebranded "American Racing"....damn I hope I just didnt waste $2,500

Oh. Em. Gee.

$2,500 for (rebranded DP's) !?!?!?!?

I just vomited a lil bit for you. Dear God.

Run. Run while you can. All of us can't stress this change alone. Your SHO and your wallet will thank you for heeding our advice and doing so.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[StealBlueSho]

Oh. Em. Gee.

$2,500 for (rebranded DP's) !?!?!?!?

I just vomited a lil bit for you. Dear God.

Run. Run while you can. All of us can't stress this change alone. Your SHO and your wallet will thank you for heeding our advice and doing so.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

No way....

 

[bpd1151]

Whew.

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[BamSHO]

Brandon, lucky enough another tuner can tune for all the parts you have purchased.

 

[SM105K]

Actually took me 2 years to finally pull the trigger for the tune. Seemed the most popular at the time of doing research. Alot of people are biased on anything you read.

Dryer today, I will air down and see how it goes.

Can we be friends now?

Sure. LMS was a good company. Until about 1.5 to 2 years ago. Then when they released v11 for the 13+ cars numerous things went wrong. They mainly were fuel pressure issues and shifting problems. There are two huge threads on here all about it. LMS said the only way to fix those issues was to by "their" upgraded high pressure fuel pump. Truth be told, it isnt.

$2500 is pretty steep for those mods. You could have gotten PPE DP's, GH IC, plugs, tuning device and tune for roughly the same price.

Most perfer the various SCT devices because all of the other tuners use SCT software. Most tuners are getting more power while being safer than LMS.

Also you read that most do not like OEM Ford fluids except coolant. I prefer Redline Lightweight Shockproof Fluid for both the PTU and RDU. Most agree you should change the PTU fluid every 30k. The catalytic converter literally bakes the PTU Fluid until it turns into sludge. Then the PTU overheats and fails. Fluid changes fix that. Also wrapping your DP's helps.

Unless you are upgrading turbos, the stock air box with a K&N is the more then adequate.

 

[Brandon78]

Oh. Em. Gee.

$2,500 for (rebranded DP's) !?!?!?!?

I just vomited a lil bit for you. Dear God.

Run. Run while you can. All of us can't stress this change alone. Your SHO and your wallet will thank you for heeding our advice and doing so.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Oh lord no, all in for every thing!