Syncros Shot???

[LookAtThatSHO]

I think my MTX transmission on my 95 has just about had it. When going from 1st into 2nd gear, the gears grind terribly until the rpm's match the mph. So unless I'm going below 20 mph, I can't get into 2nd gear and am forced to upshift into 3rd (so much for racing). When on the highway doing 70 in 4th, if I try to downshift into 3rd to pass I sometimes get a really bad grind. The clutch seems to be engaging correctly, thus leaving me to believe that the syncros are shot. Does this analysis deem to be the appropriate conclusion, or could there be other factors contributing to my tranny problems? If the syncros are shot, would the tranny have to be fully rebuilt? Expensive?

 

[TYSHO]

Either your clutch is bad or your blocking rings.

If you keep up the grinding, you will ruin your synchros. Try double clutching when you shift.

If you ruined your synchros and need some, shoot me a PM as these are now too rare to get a hold of since they have long ago been discontinued.

 

[LookAtThatSHO]

Thanks for the reply TY. GOD I hope the clutch is going bad, but would a clutch behave this way? I've had a clutch go out in a Z24 while I was driving but it never had grinding problems (possibly beause a different tranny)? I also had the throw-out bearing go in my 94 MTX SHO and that tranny never grinded the gears. I was racing a Camaro RS on the thruway the other night (stomped him), got up to about 110, and slowed to smell what I thought was a burning clutch... Maybe it is the clutch afterall??? When the tranny first started to grind into second, I was flying around with 5 people in the car, and when we came to a stop => BAAAAD CLUTCH BURNING SMELL! So, I guess my question is now, would a bad clutch cause the transmission to grind going in to certain gears at specific RPMs? Thanks for the help

 

[Ishodu]

Try lifting up on the clutch pedal with a small amount of force then push it, repeat a few times. This should set the cable correctly. Hopefully it will work.

 

[voogru]

sounds like bad clutch and time for new atf in your mtx

 

[TYSHO]

Try lifting up on the clutch pedal with a small amount of force then push it, repeat a few times. This should set the cable correctly. Hopefully it will work.

If not, I also have a clutch kit for sale in the classifieds...real cheap!

 

[Shoaz]

First thing to check is the clutch. On these cars an ailing clutch fails to _disengage_ which leads to shifting problems. If double-clutching doesn't completely solve the shifting problem then it's more likely to be a clutch problem than a tranny problem.

But I second the advice to go easy on it. The more grindage the more damage to the blocking rings and synchros. Best to get it fixed asap, it shouldn't be like that with a healthy clutch.

 

[SHO_Driver]

How's your reverse gear? If your clutch is almost done you'd have grinding going into reverse.

 

[LookAtThatSHO]

Thanks for the replies everyone!

Marcel, I will try adjusting the clutch when I get out of work today. If that fixes the problem...

Going in to reverse seems to be okay for the most part, there may be a little grind every now and then but my red 94 MTX always did this too? That also reminds me... 1st gear is sometimes a real pain to get into, I will either have to be slowly rolling or hold the clutch in for 10 seconds sometimes before it engages?!?

TY, if the adjustment doesn't work, be on the lookout for a PM

 

[Bizzy]

I think you've got a clutch/TOB issue. In any event, if you pull the trans for a clutch job you may as well open the trans and have a look inside to double check everything. That's the prudent thing to do because if the clutch isn't the problem then you have to pull it again.......

 

[TYSHO]

Going in to reverse seems to be okay for the most part, there may be a little grind every now and then but my red 94 MTX always did this too?

Reverse is non-synchronized. You will get grindage if you try to engage reverse within a couple of seconds from disengaging the clutch. The proper way to select reverse is: Push the clutch pedal down, select a gear [3rd works for me], then pull it out of gear with the clutch pedal still down, go into reverse. Right now, in my 92, I am having a hard time engaging reverse, even when doing this, but I don't receive grinding and I know the clutch is getting pretty old.

 

[LookAtThatSHO]

TY, I'm with you on that trick... I usually go from first to reverse, and even then there will still be some grinding on occasion.

Marcel, I took a look at the clutch pedal assembly on lunch today. It's hard to explain the assembly without pics, but from what I see the pedal already seems to be as far up as it can go (am I missing something here?). Exactly how much force should be used while lifting up on it?

 

[Ishodu]

It wont actually reposition the pedal it will take out any slack that maybe in the cable though. Just lift up with around 10lbs force no more.

 

[TYSHO]

I usually go from first to reverse, and even then there will still be some grinding on occasion.

More signs of a bad clutch!

When adjusting your clutch pedal, just push it down and let it back up. After, place your foot underneath and pull up, if it makes any clicks, it readjusted. No clicks, no luck.

Edit: I just noticed you're from New York. I don't know how far you are from Albany NY, but there was a guy on eBay who said he does all kind of tranmission work on the SHO's with said location. Maybe you can have him check things out for you and possibly fix it? I know Beth does transmission work, too, as another option, but she is further away. Either way, these 2 can fix a transmission if that seems to be the problem, like blocking rings.

 

[rex alot]

I just finished having the EXACT same problem on my 91. The fix turned out to be the wratchet assembly for the clutch cable. What happens is that the cable streches over time, pulling up on the pedal makes the slack adjuster tighten by a "click". On my car I was just as confused because I had the same symptoms, but my clutch only had 10,000 miles on it. I tried pulling up on the clutch pedal, but heard no click so I ruled that out. Well, after much troubleshooting I was back at the slack adjuster. I turns out that the teeth are plastic and they had stripped out, so the cable couldn't be adjusted. That means the clutch wasn't dissengaging all the way, hence the grinding and burnning smell under heavy load. The kit to fix this is common ( same one is used on 80's and 90's mustangs and escorts ) and it cost me $55.

Hope this helps.

 

[93MTXSHO_STUD]

I just finished having the EXACT same problem on my 91. The fix turned out to be the wratchet assembly for the clutch cable. What happens is that the cable streches over time, pulling up on the pedal makes the slack adjuster tighten by a "click". On my car I was just as confused because I had the same symptoms, but my clutch only had 10,000 miles on it. I tried pulling up on the clutch pedal, but heard no click so I ruled that out. Well, after much troubleshooting I was back at the slack adjuster. I turns out that the teeth are plastic and they had stripped out, so the cable couldn't be adjusted. That means the clutch wasn't dissengaging all the way, hence the grinding and burnning smell under heavy load. The kit to fix this is common ( same one is used on 80's and 90's mustangs and escorts ) and it cost me $55.

Hope this helps.

i have a similar problem with my mtx can you visibly see these teeth or how would you know this is a problem.

 

[LookAtThatSHO]

Ohhhh... You CAN'T be SERIOUS?

Where can I get myself one of these kits?!?! Or would a simple clutch cable solve the problem ( I've got one around here somewhere)?

 

[rex alot]

Yes, you can inspect it. It's attached to the clutch pedal way up at the top
where the clutch cable comes in. You don't need a new cable, you just by a new wratchet kit from ford, my local dealership got it overnight, and install it.
Your old cable will attach to your new assembly and will take up all the slack.

 

[Greensilver_SHO]

I'm definitely thinking it's your clutch. I had my tranny and differential rebuilt about 30K ago and a new clutch installed... but about 6 or 7K after that was done, I was having the same problems you are having. So my mechanic first replaced the clutch cable (under warranty) and when that didn't work, he replaced the clutch (under warranty) and that solved my problem.

My money will be your clutch is going, it's not fully disengaging.

 

[LookAtThatSHO]

Rex, I inspected the whole clutch pedal assembly and everything seems to be fine. The cable is nice and tight, and it's snugged perfectly within the white plastic housing above the pedal. GreenSilver, I like how you use money and clutch in the same sentence