Strange Starting Issue

[BenBrausen]

Today I stopped to put air in my tires and when I went to restart, nothing. All the dash lights came on but it didn't sound like the starter was getting any power. Played with it for about 15 mins. Made sure the ATX was locked in Park good. Nothing. Still sounded like the starter wasn't gettin any power. I walked the 4 blocks home and then gave AAA a call. I drove down to where the car was dead at to meet the tow truck driver. Less then 1 min before he got there I remembered it hadn't started for me at the Ford dealership once and when I rolled it into a parking spot, it started fine. I put it in Reverse and rolled it back no more then 6 inches. Tried and it started right up! Any idea what could be causing this problem? The battery is less then a month old, the starter is less then 2 months old, and the battery terminals are less then 6 months old. WFT?

 

[wood_e]

same **** is happening to me ben. I tihnk there might be a bad ground on the starter, but I dunno. I haven't looked into it very much...

 

[BenBrausen]

I don't get how rollin' it a couple inches fixes it. Mabe its just us MN Green ATX SHO owners.

 

[SonicRiot]

Check the remote solenoid.

Are you getting any power at all? Any clicking?

I had a starting problem where it would work, not work... intermittenly it was a ******. There would be no clicking, just a hum of electricity and idiot lights... as if the starter wasn't even plugged in. At first I thought it was the remote solenoid, but every time I jumped the contacts with a screwdriver, it fired right up. I finally figured out that the control wire for the remote solenoid (on the fender) was worn through somewhere near the firewall. I just ran a new wire from the clutch switch through a rubber plug in the firewall and spliced in the connector (elbow shaped, plugs on to the solenoid control contact).

Break out the multimeter. Start by testing the clutch interlock switch and contacts at the solenoid and starter.


EDIT: I just realized... ATX. Check the interlock switch to the brake instead of the clutch.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

WFT?

LOL is that your Yoda impression?

 

[BenBrausen]

Thanks for the advise but the Gen II's have the starter solenoid built into the starter or onboard it. Too bad ya can't just jump it. I'm lookin' at a $5-$8/hr raise soon here, if it goes through, the SHO will become the winter ride (if I don't ditch it totally).

 

[3.8Lwagon]

maybe the park switch is out of adjustment or is going bad. my ex gf jeep would not start from time to time and all she had to do was shift to drive or anything south of park and then back to park and it would start back up.

 

[BenBrausen]

Is the Ford dealer the only place I can get one of these switches? They won't be open on a Sunday. Sometimes takin' it outta park and puttin' it back in park again works to get it started. I just brought it into the shop and they said it was just a loose starter wire, when I got it home and parked it, I tried to start it again and nothin' once again. Makes me think the switch is a good posibility. What is the exact name for the switch? Where is it located under the center counsole?

 

[projectSHO89]

Try starting with the shift selector in Neutral.

If this works reliably but not in PARK or if jiggling the gearshift while trying to crank helps, the selector switch is the likely problem.

The switch is located on the top of the transmission housing. It is available from most auto parts stores and will be called one of the following: Neutral Safety Switch, Transmission Range Sensor, or Manual Lever Position Sensor. About $20.

Steve

 

[BenBrausen]

And how do you adjust the shifter? Since I got the tranny work done the lil marker on the shifter has been a little off. I't's just a little forward of the mark on the indicator.

 

[Off Road SHO]

It's adjusted at the switch location. Once you take a close look at it, you'll understand.

Till you get a new switch, use your left hand to turn the ignition switch to the "start" position; while you move the shift lever slowly from park to neutral. When the worn out contacts of the neutral safety switch come into contact with a good part of the remaining contact, your starter will spring to life.

Tom

 

[BenBrausen]

Is startin' it in neutral a problem? I put it in neutral and it started fine once I held the brake down. How much of a pain is it to replace the switch myself? About how long should I plan? Do I just need to pull the air intake tube to get access to it or is there more to it?

 

[wood_e]

ccccccccccoooooooooollllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll

Yeah, awesome... my starter refuses to work now. I just get a click....

I tried the safety switch trick, no go there. All of the contacts seem good on it as far as cabling goes. Thankfully I'm at my buddy's place...

 

[BenBrausen]

Darn these green Gen II ATX Minnesota SHOs!

FYI wood_e, metallic has 2 l's, check your sig.

 

[wood_e]

Darn these green Gen II ATX Minnesota SHOs!

FYI wood_e, metallic has 2 l's, check your sig.

Ben,

Thanks man...

Yeah for the first time in a year I think I have to take my car to an actual mechanic... :cry:

 

[wood_e]

Well my new starter fixed my issues... for now. {retty sad a reman'd one only lasted a little under a year....

 

[SonicRiot]

Reman starters are a PITA. The last one only lasted 3 months. Let's see how long this one lasts...

Where the **** can we get NEW, untouched starters?

 

[BenBrausen]

I thought NAPA offered new starters? All new internal parts??