Strange electrical issues, HELP (FIXED)

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This is a pretty strange problem that's risen up before. On occasion, last two times this time around, I turn the key to any "On" position the cabin lights and dash lights barely turn on like there's something pulling massive amounts of power from the battery. I try to start the car and I don't get a sound, if the locks choose to engage either by me starting it or using the key fob they go crazy and rapidly try to lock over and over again, it never stops. The only thing I've managed to find that sometimes seems to bring it back is to turn the headlights all the way on with the key in the On/Start position and it seems to clear up in the blink of an eye. Alarm doesn't like it either, flicking it's relay like the door locks do whenever I use the key fob. Any idea on what this is? I know the battery has plenty of voltage and amperage, something just seems to be stealing it away when I turn the key into any "On" position. And this had happened long before the stereo install as well so it isn't a factor. Thanks for any help :thankyou: Troubleshooting electrics on cars scares me a bit, confusing :scared:

Edit: Another symptom is as soon as the issue starts the park lights come on, like when the alarm is engaged or disengaged, but they just stay on and become really dim like the rest of the lights. And while I was trying to figure out what was going on with a multimeter (Battery went down to a little over two volts while all this happens) the lights suddenly returned without me doing anything other than having the hood light on for an extended period. Also when this happens there's the smell of rotton eggs from under the hood and I hear tiny pops and crackling somewhere between the engine and the battery, it doesn't appear to be coming from the battery directly.
 
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hawkeye18

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I want to say your headlamp switch has shorted and is causing it, but if you're hearing popping from inbetween the engine and the battery, then it might be something different.

Still, the fact that turning the headlights on fixes it, and the parking lamps turning on leads me to believe the headlamp switch is involved somehow.
 
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Confirmed, I dunno why but that positive battery terminal corrodes quickly after I take it off. The post was pitted from all the arcing but I cleaned it as best I could and smeared a thin film of dielectric grease over it and the inside of the new terminal. Blinged (gold plated) it out so there'd be less of a chance of corrosion, hopefully it stays clean this time. But yeah, after all that the alarm decided to let me know ALL WAS WELL right in my ear, everything started just fine, no funky blinking crap. I can only assume turning the headlights and the ignition on perhaps created a draw great enough to either make it's way around the corrosion or just made one big arc, who knows, it works now so hurray :woo-hoo:

P 00099 1

ALWAYS check your battery terminals and posts first, cheapest and easiest thing you can do.
 

kevinspann

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I had an issue with corrosion on the brass battery terminal that I put in my Explorer. I thought the brass one would hold up better, but it didn't. This past weekend, it wouldn't start. I checked the terminal, and it wasn't corroded much at all, but it was loose. The brass terminal I had installed had broken in half somehow.

So, like you said, always check those first.
 
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I had an issue with corrosion on the brass battery terminal that I put in my Explorer. I thought the brass one would hold up better, but it didn't. This past weekend, it wouldn't start. I checked the terminal, and it wasn't corroded much at all, but it was loose. The brass terminal I had installed had broken in half somehow.

So, like you said, always check those first.

The brass one I looked at almost looked like a brass coated lead terminal, that's why I went for the gold, it's most certainly not lead, couldn't bend it to save my life. But it went on well enough and I feel better knowing it has about the best connection I can manage to give it. Also make sure you never over tighten your terminals, every car I've ever worked on that has replacement lead terminals has them over tightened and stretched out, I could take them off without even loosening the nut. Snug is all you need, snug it down and make sure it won't turn left or right and you're done.
 

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