still too hot

[BeatDaSHO]

my car still heats up to the N until the fan kicks on and then it will drop to about the O. It will keep doing this. Here is what i have replaced........thermostat with the motorcraft 192 (they don't make the 180 anymore), sending unit with a motorcraft one, the wire to the sending unit, the ETC, swapped in a different ICM above the radiator, and the damn thing still heats up. I also took out the radiator and flushed it all through and then i flushed out my whole system by pulling the throttle body hose off and putting a hose in the radiator. I let it flow for a good 5 mins. I have no idea why my car is heating up this much. What else is there to replace on this?? please help me out because i'm afraid to drive it when it's getting this hot.

Greg

 

[snowwind1990]

Reset the PCM by removing neg. battery cable, etc...go to www.dalidesign.com for directions.
You may have confused her and she needs to clear her head a little.
Try it, you might be surprised.
Ma Ma M

 

[Mr Anonymous]

You could still have a restriction somewhere in the cooling system, or your water pump may not be doing its job. Try bypassing the heater core and see if that makes any difference.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

they still make the 180. You have the incorrect t-stat which is probably your problem, since you've got a 12 degree difference on the gauge, which could be at least 3 letters on there. My car with the 180 t-stat, a 2 row radiator, and the TB lines looped runs me below the L in 85* weather, even with the 3.2 itching to go.

 

[projectSHO89]

Before you go assuming the temp is actually too hot, hook up a good quality external temp guage and READ the real temp. You may just have a goofy guage.

Steve

 

[LaTechSHO]

thermostat controls MINIMUM temperature not MAXIMUM temperature... unless it is stuck.....

a thermostat doesn't open up MORE if the engine is overheating... it is just open..... the REST of the cooling system controls maximum temperature...

when the temperature climbs...do the fans kick on at the correct time? or do they wait till it goes up into the high point of the gauge...

i would agree get yourself a reading from the radiator... input side and output side

also.. you claim you changed the temperature sender... did you also change the temperature sensor?

one goes to the gauge.. the other feeds to the ECU (also the one that controls the fans) it should have two prong round connector... if you chagned the one wire connector that feeds the gauge that tells the computer nothing just the gauge

Louis

 

[SHOZ123]

Sounds ok to me. The gauges are about as accurate as you pinky on the radiator hose. You need to overide the PCM and turn the fan on sooner. $25 at Sunmmit Racing.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

see......what leads me to believe that it's not the fan is that i was cruising on the highway tonight and the themperature was between the R and M when it ursed to be between the L and A so that leads me to believe that nothing is wrong with the fan. i did replace that two pronged connector. It's called the ETC. i'm going to get an aftermarket gauge on it tomrorow so i can find out the real temp. grrr. i'm hoping that the gauge is just bad.

Greg

 

[LaTechSHO]

sorry to hear that..... might be a flow inhibited radiator...

especially with the highway temperature moving up at the same rate as stoplight to stoplight temp.

sucks

Louis

 

[BeatDaSHO]

and the thermostat opens and closes cause i can watch the coolant in the radiator go up and down so i know the thermostat is opening and closing. the fan kicks on when it reaches the N. scares me

Greg

 

[RStalveyARFF]

I'd suggest doing a flush using the prestone high strength flush, and their backflush system. A total of maybe $12 for the two products. The backflush system is a T that goes on one of the heater hoses (can't remember which right now), and you hook a garden hose to it, and it flushes the system through the top of the radiator. It works, believe me!!!

 

[BeatDaSHO]

well i hooked up an aftermarket electrical temp gauge today and it indeed is getting way too hot. The fan kicks on at 220 degrees and it only drops to about 215 degrees. i'm gonna swap in a different radiator and i guess we'll see what happens. any suggestions?? i'm getting sooo worried.

Greg

 

[Jr's Sho]

When I was shopping for a thermostat in Autozone a month ago, I saw the 180 degree High-Performance Robertshaw brand.I think part number is on shotimes.com under cooling system. Or do a search on it but I went with Autozone brand, it was the only one I could find with the jiggler valve{didn't want to spend $23.00 on OEM}. Hope you find your problem bro.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

i've already tried a NAPA 180 degree thermostat because i thought it would run a little colder. but nope. gets to the same temperature.

Greg

 

[Chrisssssssss]

if your cooling system is somewhat sketchy, you may want to be careful with those flushing things. I flushed my rad with a flushing system, and I then soon after had the rad blow, and the heater core blow. I think that the gunk was the only thing holding the cooling system together. Just a note of warning....

 

[SHOZ123]

If you put the lower t-stat in the fans need to come on sooner. Get a LPM programed or an external fan controller. I have a 170F t-stat on my V8 and I turn the fans on at 170F works great even in 90F temps and the a/c on.

 

[Slo-Sho]

You said that you changed the coolant temp sender for the EEC? I know this isn't a permanent fix, but, I have two switches in my car that I use to manually override the Hi/Lo speed operation of the fans. I can also operate the high speed circuit when the car is off. Very convenient when you need to fix something right away. I'm sure you could perform the same "upgrade" on a Gen I. BTW, do you use 70/30 or 50/50 coolant concentration?

 

[BeatDaSHO]

See.....i would hook up the fan on a switch but i noticed that it still gets hot on the highway so that means that air is not really cooling it off too much so a fan switch wouldn't do me any good. I'm gonna bypass my heater core today because i noticed those two hoses got really hot when everything else in the engine was cold. any more ideas??

Greg

 

[projectSHO89]

If your car's heating system is putting out lot's of heat, the core is doing its job and is not the problem.

Steve

 

[Markus]

I had a problem where (with the ac off) my temp gauge would read "N-O" in city traffic. Just replaced my radiator yesterday and while I was at it I checked the resistor that is used to operate the cooling fans at low speed (fan speed, not car speed). The resistor connector, being adjacent to the oil filler cap, was soaked in oil. I cleaned up the connector and my low speed fan now comes on when the gauge reads "R". I replaced the radiator cap, also.

Once the fan comes on, the temp drops much faster that it did with the old radiator. The spaces between the fins of the old radiator were clogged with crappola.

Before installing the radiator, I took a hose to the back side of the condensor to clean out the spaces between its fins. A lot of crappola came out of there.