Still having power issues - HAVE CODES

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Jayman

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After doing the full 60K a couple of weeks ago at the shop they installed plugs (Ford), wires, new seals, gaskets, water pump, crank sensor and seal, timing belt, valve adjustment etc and I still get no power past 4000 rpm. My condition on cold start where the engine seems to be not running on all cylinders until about 5 min of running still exists. I've checked the secondaries and they do move when the engine is revved up. I also have that warm start condition and received a CEL the other day.
I have cleaned out the throttle body in the past about a year ago or so, but never quite knew how to disassemble the MAF to clean it properly. Any advice on this would help please. See codes below:
KOEO
111
214 CID Circuit failure

KEOR
213 Ignition spout or SAW circiut open or shorted
521 PSPS did not change states or wheel not turned
536 BOO Circuit failure
I'm hoping the experts can help make sense of these codes because reading them alone is like Greek to me. I understand the cam sensor one and I'm assuming it should be replaced, however I never can tell if one code is linked to another, due to certain prevailing conditions. Can the CID be responsible for these conditions other than the warm start issues?
Thanks in advance
 

95SHO32

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fix koeo first then erase codes and see if any koeo return, if you need exact code difinitions pm me
 

wood_e

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521 and 536 are signifying you didn't do the proper tests during KOER
 

Jayman

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- Car has almost 90k miles.
- What does fix KOEO mean exactly?
- I can rerun the KOER but I was trying to determine the exact meaning so that I could correct what I was doing.
- Please analyze these codes and let me know the procedure I need to follow.
- What about the cold start condition and my power loss?
I went for a good run tonight and have determined that it's not so much after 4000 rpm but rather full throttle even before the revs get up there. If I don't floor the gas pedal it will pull better, but if I mat the pedal it seems to fall flat on her face. Is this indicative of the MAF if the secondaries are working?
Please help - details are better for me.
 

Ishodu

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Did someone do a emissions test lately on this car? Check to see if your spout connector is still attached. It could have came loose some how too. If you search Spout you should find a pic of it.
 

rbrthrly90

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go to that link in the home page shopp project phenox they have a great artical on how to do all the test what they mean and eberything about the codes. every 1 should check that site out it is a great help with allot of stuff
 

Jayman

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Spout eh. I'll try searching for it. What is it BTW?
Are my questions too redundant? I've searched for information without much luck specific to my concerns.
Thanks though
 

rangerj

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jayman,

SPOUT = Spark Output of the ECU (Electronic Control Unit or "the computer), aka DIS = Distributorless Ignition System.

There are numerous prior threads wherein the tests for the DIS are discussed.

The tests are done with a simple DMM (digital multi-meter NOTE DIGITAL and NOT an analog meter (swing needle type). An LED light type probe is also used (NOT an incandescent light type probe).

The test help you determine if the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor (CID = cylinder identification sensor), the coil packs, the ECU, and the wireing through the DIS connection are functioning properly.

Start by disconnecting and then reconnecting the CID (camshaft sensor) and see if the KOEO code is cleared. Poor connections are a common cause of problems with these ageing cars.
 

Jayman

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Found the spout connector which is attached properly and connectors seem clean.
Will try fuel pressure and DIS testing soon.
BTW the last time I cleaned my throttle body MAF (or so I thought) I did not notice the little wires that measure air temp that everyone refers to. I found and cleaned right after the air cleaner the part with a metal screen on it. Is this the MAF?
 

rbrthrly90

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you go under the link bar on the left under maitnence, then to the link testing for codes it is a blue link in the text. it is very helpfull taught me lots of stuff i didnt know
 

Jayman

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Blue link? Are you referring to the Gen 1 & 2 - Emergency Issues - Help & Maintenance link?
As far as cleaning the MAF the pics I've found for 89's seem different to the 93's for instance. When I had mine apart I did not see the little wires the MAF screen. Did the 93's not have the little wires?
 

Redline

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No, the 93 also has the wires and screen. The MAF is located on the top of your intake next to your airbox. There are three or four bolts with a special star type head on them. I got the bit for taking them out at schucks. Should be called a T-something, maybe someone else knows.

Anyway, pull those bolts out, and then carefully remove the square plastic cover they were holding down. This will pull out a sort of a tube that sticks down into your intake. At the end of the tube, you will see to filament type wires. Spray them down with electrical cleaner and I am guessing it will at least help yoru problem if not fix it entirely.
 

Jayman

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Well thank you!!! I've seen that part but as you can expect don't have the tool to remove it. I will find it and clean that sucker out with crossed fingers.
Thanks again Redline
 

SHOSIG

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OH you didn't know
Make sure you use a q-TIP and use light pressure when you clean the MAF wires. You don't want to break them!
 

iluvmysho22

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Timming Gears

Jayman said:
- Car has almost 90k miles.
- What does fix KOEO mean exactly?
- I can rerun the KOER but I was trying to determine the exact meaning so that I could correct what I was doing.
- Please analyze these codes and let me know the procedure I need to follow.
- What about the cold start condition and my power loss?
I went for a good run tonight and have determined that it's not so much after 4000 rpm but rather full throttle even before the revs get up there. If I don't floor the gas pedal it will pull better, but if I mat the pedal it seems to fall flat on her face. Is this indicative of the MAF if the secondaries are working?
Please help - details are better for me.

Have you ever had the timming checked out on the car. It sounds like you timming gears might need to be replaced. If not that have your mass air flow checked out.
 

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