Still cant get the crank bolt off!

[Machspeed]

We've tried 140 psi shop impact wrenches, we've tried the ratchet on the blot and then turn the engine over, we've tried the pipe on the breaker bar...I still cant get my crank bolt off. ANY help is welcome. shrug

 

[projectSHO89]

The starter bump method SHOULD work. Use a Craftsmen or other lifetime warranteed ratchet and put it on so that the ratchet has a chance to swing a few inches before hitting a wooden block or the sub-frame.

If that doesn't work, maybe try putting a very large diameter socket over the head and shoulder of the crank bolt and pop it a couple times with a 3 lb hammer. That might fix it if the dampener is binding against the bolt head. Then repeat the starter bump.

Hopefully, it wasn't previously assembled with the non-removable LockTite.

Steve

 

[luigisho]

This is starting to sound bad. Maybe the locktite (if that's what it is) is keeping it from backing out but I figured enough torque and the locktite would give. If you're close enough maybe Tom at Sho Shop can help get that thing off. Could be tension and/or corrosion is keeping it on too. Run a search on this subject as I recall someone posting a somewhat similar problem a few weeks ago.

 

[94mtx]

for sho,
where is martinez?? im in san diego and will be changing my waterpump and timing belt this weekend. if you have any words of wisdom i would appreciate them.

thanks
jon

 

[SHOnuff93]

jon, since i have a 3 day weekend coming up and no plans, i might come down to help you with your sho, if thats ok and i have a place to stay. i also need to deliver a transaxle to gordon gregg.

 

[rktmn]

WOW!!! Still haven't been able to remove that bolt. How long a was the cheater bar you used? If you use one that is long enough, you could probably snap the bolt off. Use a 5 foot or longer bar.

You could also try heating it with a torch. You will have to replace the seals and gaskets after, and you definitely have to be very carefull not to set you car on fire. Oil and gas are very flamable. I would remove the oil pan first.

If someone used red loctite 271 on the threads of that bolt, you will have to apply heat to break the bond.

Are you turning that bolt clounterclockwise?

 

[shojuan]

Wouldn't using heat risk damage to the rubber in the harmonic dampener pulley?

Rick

 

[jthomas68]

There is no rubber in the SHO crank pulley,it`s a solid piece of cast.

 

[rangerj]

For SHO,

The following is a recomendation of last resort.

Heat the bolt up until it is good and hot, near red hot. Then cool it down quickly with ice water. I do not like doing this, and as I said it is the method of last resort. It works.

As stated above, the crankshaft seal (and the crankshaft position sensor as a precaution) will have to be replaced. If you are careful, the plastic timing belt cover should not be affected. If you are concerned about this, you can cover it with a wet towel.

All of the concerns expressed above, about fire and burns, should be given serious consideration.
A fire extinguisher should be on hand, and you should have a "helper" on hand that knows how to use it.

I am reluctant to recommend this proceedure because I do not know your experience level. So, please exercise caution and work safely. rangerj

 

[SLOSHO89]

The cheater bar/ pipe was plenty long enough (I think), maybe 3-4 or so feet?

We un did the hood from the struts so we could turn it farther still didn't want to budge.

Yes, it was going counterclockwise

 

[RI-SHO]

Oh you have to get some "real" leverage with the cheater bar I used two 1/2" extenstion on my 1/2" drive with the deep socket 19mm and cranked from the fender side putting all my strength into it. I wedged a tire iron inbetween the wheel lugnuts, so it couldnt budge at all, after some pushing and nice deep drove I made with the tire iron in the pavement, it came loose.

 

[billh]

Didn't I read that one guy smacked the front of the dampner and the bolt came loose? Unless you use a dampner install tool, most of us use the bolt to pull the dampner on. Tends to load a lot of tension on the dampner bolt. Also, keep in mind that all impact wrenches aren't created equal. I have had first hand experience with a 1/2" dirve impact hooked to 140 PSI air that wouldn't budge a 3/4" thread bolt. When we used a Snap On brand impact wrench, spun it right off.
Good luck
Bill

 

[shojuan]

If you use extensions so you can use the cheater bar from the fender side make sure you jump on the end. I always get better results jumping on the end of a cheater bar than trying to strong arm it. If you need cheap cheater pipe get a length of SCH-40 PVC pipe cut in the plumbing section of OSH or Home Depot. Won't cost but a buck. It can take the stress (usually). Whenever I've actually had a piece split on me then I just slap another length of PVC pipe on there and the second time is usually the charm. In fact if you can break a length of PVC pipe then maybe the backsnap will help break loose the bolt.

Rick

 

[shojuan]

You've soaked it with PB Blaster and not some crappy old liquid wrench, right?

Rick

 

[Machspeed]

The starter method may not have worked because i have a VERY broken motor mount. So when we cranked it the engine flew up like 4 inches. Maybe that dampened the force on the bolt?

 

[shojuan]

FOR SHO:
The starter method may not have worked because i have a VERY broken motor mount. So when we cranked it the engine flew up like 4 inches. Maybe that dampened the force on the bolt?

Now you tell us! Maybe somebody can tell you how to temporarily chain the engine down or something.

Rick

 

[Monterusto]

try to freeze the bolt or hot n cold combo in the right places. was the key ever broken and repaired

 

[projectSHO89]

Maybe that dampened the force on the bolt?

Well, duuuhhhh!

Of course it did.

Chain that sucker down or replace the mount, then try again.

 

[CALL AAA]

Run a search on this subject as I recall someone posting a somewhat similar problem a few weeks ago.

Yeah, that was probably me. Mine is still stuck on there.

 

[drgraham]

Sound like the problem that I recently just had, I finally came to the point that I used a dermal and cut the washer from the bolt. Once I got about a third of it off the bolt came free. I believe that the balancer and the washer had enough friction and thus the threads could not grap a bite. If I were to run across this again, I’d try pushing the balancer onto the shaft by placing a piece of wood against it and hitting the wood w/a hammer or using a rubber mallet. Again the thought is to relieve the pressure between the bolt and the balancer. Let us know what works. boink