Car over heating only on spirited take offs

[Austin2013SHO]

I had a very similiar issue, but mine turned out to be a stuck thermostat. Installed a Reisch 170 and problem was solved. I noticed that the dash gage and scanner indicated temperature go hand in hand, up and down the scale, so I now trust my dash gage to give me the temp at all times. I think this 1 FOR 1 accuracy is done with the Gearhead tune. With the *****, the gage temperature roamed around for two or three weeks while driving after the install, and coolant blew out the overflow, but temp now reads steady at all times. The coolant tank also adjusted itself to the correct level over that same time period. Funny, I thought the water pump was bad, but we put the car up on the lift at the dealer, and they shined the light up, showing me the water pump bypass opening was dry, and the coolant was coming from the fill tank, blowing off excess fluid.
I always test new and used thermostats in hot water, slowly warming the water while monitoring the water temperature. I found at least one defective NEW thermostat doing this over 50 years, and of course, found the aforementioned stuck thermostat the same way. It's a simple process, and for me, has avoided much trouble and heartache!
My previous thermostat was a 160 from Livernois, (don't ever buy ANYTHING FROM LIVERNOIS) and it was indeed, frozen shut.
SHOBLOCK

I replaced everything before ultimately doing the water pump. As for boiling water test yes I do this as well but I tell u a funny story. The 3.6 L jeep wrangler motors are notorious for bad thermostats. I once seen 12 in a year be bad right out the box. It was mind blowing.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

on the edge/mkx platform, we have seen impeller failures on water pumps. literally gone. not a whole bunch, but it does happen. looks like melted not broken, but who knows. maybe they have seen it on the TCCA site too. SHO is too low volume in production by comparison.

I haven’t come across it on the sho but I have seen and heard the bearings go bad and I’ve seen where one impeller tip was missing but these were on f150’s.

 

[BradM]

Ok guys after the exciting adventure I am deeming the problem fixed. I replaced the water pump and problem has went away. Here’s what I took away and all I did, replaced timing chain and guides, replaced phasers with new updated ones, replaced all tensioners (serpentine belt one included), added the updated mailings oil pump and new pick up tube. Replaced every gasket from timing chain cover RTV bs, all the way up.

Water pump seal had started to fail and was leaking but I park on a moving blanket in my garage or in the street if available but never noticed it with the splash shield catching most of the drip.

Also for fun I painted the valve covers. Included some photos,
Also few parts I had to replace along the way consisted of coolant reservoir hose to the engine has a double tab plastic piece on one end and as soon as I gave it a pull it snapped right off. Belt tensioner was locked up to the point I couldn’t take belt off and forget about putting it on, not common but just things to look for along the way.

Also I did all this on the ground engine in the car with a floor jack and night stand. No special tools are needed IMO. You will need a pulley puller, as for pulley installation tools most I found didn’t work for out crank pulley because it’s caved in, so once the center nut goes so deep you can’t get a wrench on it and you would need insane sized socket to reach it do to length of the bolt it threads on. Best advice use it to get it started, once u can no longer use a wrench, remove and place cut 2X4 on it and tap it down (good luck), it does work though but once close enough use original bolt and get it started as deep as u can then impact it on and it will pull the pulley on into place.

A night stand? I was gonna use an end table. Since this is fresh in your mind, how did you source the parts? Did you find a kit? All OEM? I know there are parts list on this forum but curious what you did.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

Sorry it’s a typo from auto correct but it was supposed to say jack stands, I got parts off rock auto and Amazon, the water pump comes in a kit on rock auto (cloyes is the brand I used) with the timing chain and phaser chains, chain tensioners, crank shaft sprocket, ( sprocket didn’t go on easy so I didn’t use it), and all timing chain guides.

This is the video to help time everything.
I will say u can do this job without the cam tools if u have some good vice grips and have some experience if not I do recommend you buy the cam tools u will see in other videos (rock auto has those too),

Gaskets for valve covers off of rock auto in a kit (felpro) as well includes the HPFP gaskets too.
RTV sealant off of Amazon, oil pump off rock auto (melling) and pick up tube, oil pan gasket off rock auto. You will have to either go to ford for phaser bolts or source them somewhere, (they are one time use bolts) same with the phasers (partgeeks) rock auto is usually out of stock.

 

[kryptto]

Ok guys after the exciting adventure I am deeming the problem fixed. I replaced the water pump and problem has went away. Here’s what I took away and all I did, replaced timing chain and guides, replaced phasers with new updated ones, replaced all tensioners (serpentine belt one included), added the updated mailings oil pump and new pick up tube. Replaced every gasket from timing chain cover RTV bs, all the way up.

Water pump seal had started to fail and was leaking but I park on a moving blanket in my garage or in the street if available but never noticed it with the splash shield catching most of the drip.

Also for fun I painted the valve covers. Included some photos,
Also few parts I had to replace along the way consisted of coolant reservoir hose to the engine has a double tab plastic piece on one end and as soon as I gave it a pull it snapped right off. Belt tensioner was locked up to the point I couldn’t take belt off and forget about putting it on, not common but just things to look for along the way.

Also I did all this on the ground engine in the car with a floor jack and night stand. No special tools are needed IMO. You will need a pulley puller, as for pulley installation tools most I found didn’t work for out crank pulley because it’s caved in, so once the center nut goes so deep you can’t get a wrench on it and you would need insane sized socket to reach it do to length of the bolt it threads on. Best advice use it to get it started, once u can no longer use a wrench, remove and place cut 2X4 on it and tap it down (good luck), it does work though but once close enough use original bolt and get it started as deep as u can then impact it on and it will pull the pulley on into place.

nice work byw

 

[shoblock]

nice work byw

I second that
SHOBLOCK

 

[Austin2013SHO]

nice work byw

Thanks bro, it was a lot going into it but ended up being easier than expected

 

[Austin2013SHO]

I would say it’s safe to say I’m getting back to the build now. Gonna add the EPP hot pipes soon as mine originals are shot in the rubber boot bend areas. I’m sure it’s leaking boost pressure so although now a performance mod I do think I will feel and notice a difference. I also did a carbon clean on my car. If u have never done it I do suggest having it done. Car blew out crazy soot like a diesel during the process but increased throttle response IMO could also be due to all the other parts but couldn’t tell u because I did them all together. This does require a special tool and these 3 can chemicals that come in a pack.

 

[Highway Star]

So guys I’m back, hopefully someone else has a similar experience and can shed some light on how they fixed it.

Long story short after installing my GH intercooler I started experiencing over heating issues when I take off from dead stop quicker than usual. I do not mean WOT just a little more than your mom would do. It will get into 230 range. If u go to driving like an average person it will slowly cool off but only in motion if setting still temp continues to rise. I know before I assumed it was air in system but I took my car to ford and had them drain and refill coolant so very unlikely it’s still air. The only other symptom I have it when u turn car off at 215-230 temp range wait a minute or two and crank car coolant temps have sky rocketed to 250 plus. My fans cut into low speed and high speed but once car is cut off, they cut off as well. I thought I remembered them running for a while once car was turned off to help dissipation of heat.

Any ideas? I have narrowed it down to bad fans, or whatever electrical switch tells fans to stay on once a certain temp is hit is bad. Only other idea is a head gasket issue but I have not noticed any coolant missing from the system. Please help this has turned into a month of diagnostics. There are zero engine codes or lights.

Any more info needed just let me know. Thanks so much

The rise in coolant temperatures after hot shut off is because the engine still heats the water after it stops circulating. I suggest a thermostat change and a good burping of the coolant system.

 

[Austin2013SHO]

The rise in coolant temperatures after hot shut off is because the engine still heats the water after it stops circulating. I suggest a thermostat change and a good burping of the coolant system.

It ended up being a water pump. If you read above u will see everything I did but ultimately water pump fixed the issue.