stalling

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smokesho

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usually while slowing down, if i let off the clutch and gas for long enough the rpms drop to 500 or so. sometimes the car fights it, sometimes it just stalls. any info???
 

sdpatt

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Have you disconnected your battery lately? If so, you need to reset the idle. If not, you need to remove and clean the idle air bypass valve.

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Scott
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1991, 252K miles, glass hood, police grill, SVO shifter, Catz fogs,
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Cobria

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Most likely you just need to adjust the cable on the throttle body. Give it a couple of turn and that should raise the idle back up to around 7-800 rpms. That should solve the problem.
 

smokesho

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usually it does idle at 8 or so....but maybe ill check that out tomorow... how do i " reset the idle" ??? is it just adjusting mechanically?
 

Huntervf

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Do the RPM's "bounce up and down" before dropping real low and/or stalling?

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Chris Smith
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T

ThatSHOkid

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Originally posted by Huntervf:
Do the RPM's "bounce up and down" before dropping real low and/or stalling?


mine has doen that twice in the past 3 days. but it doesn't stall or at leats i won't let it
 

smokesho

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ok. heres what happens. either slowing down or coasting, if i let off the clutch and don't hit the gas, the rpms drop. and they drop sometimes to 500 or so. sometimes the car fights it and they barely bounce. then come to 1000 and do bounce from 9-11 for a little while. unfortunatly, sometimes it just stalls out.... and it's kinda embarassing.
 

bigsho

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How do you reset the idle because every time I turn on the defrost or heater the RPMs drop to 500 and stalls sometimes. I disconnected the battery and turned on the a/c all the way up but didn't work. How long does it take if I did it the right way.
Thanks

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RStalveyARFF

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have you checked to see if there is oil in your plug wells? I had mine idling for awhile, and it would just stall. I thought it was the CPS, and it turned out to be oil hindering the spark.
 

SLOSHO89

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To reset the idle,

Disconnect the battery, turn the head lights on. Wait 15 min. Turn off head lights, connect battery. Start the car and let idle for a few seconds then turn on the lights, radio, A/C, turn the wheels back & forth. Do this for 70 seconds. That will show the EEC what kind of loads to expect.

Another thing that is totaly different..... How is your gas mileage?
My car would run rough at idle or when I pushed in the clutch. (I was told it was the idle air bypass valve). It turned out to be a hole in the pipe going from the EGR to the rear exhaust manifold.

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sdpatt

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Originally posted by Cobria:
Most likely you just need to adjust the cable on the throttle body. Give it a couple of turn and that should raise the idle back up to around 7-800 rpms. That should solve the problem.

DO NOT adjust the idle with the set screw on the throttle body. That screw is set for an 800 rpm base idle with the IAB valve's electrical plug disconnected. The EEC has an idle program that uses the IAB valve to keep the idle at the programmed setpoint above that by allowing specific amounts of air to bypass the throttle plate, hence the name "idle air bypass valve."

If the idle is not steady, that is a prime indicator of an IAB valve not doing its job correctly. It is either dirty and not moving easily, or the idle program was not learned correctly. SLOSHO89 has written the correct method to "teach" the IAB and EEC how to handle the various idle loads. Also, if there is another engine control problem such as plug misfiring or a vacuum leak, that will create a situation where the EEC has a hard time keeping the idle up to the programmed speed. If something is not working correctly, fix it, don't cover it up.

Scott


[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 10-30-2001).]
 

Huntervf

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Well, a friend of mine in the Society had the EXACT same problem you're describing...bobbing idle with the clutch pushed in, eventually it would drop too low and die. After months of trying to figure it out we finally found that the fuel pressure regulator was bad. The regulator is the little round thing on the passenger side of the intake...actually it's mounted to the fuel rail. No codes were ever set for this problem...so it may be something you want to check.

------------------
Chris Smith
SVT/SHO Society
Taurus SHO Representative
http://svt.sho.tripod.com
89 SHO MTX Light Titanium 122k, Mi. License 1ST SHO, Konig Reign 16 x 7.5 rims, Kuhmo 225/50VR 16's, fender airbox removed, 91+ badges, CincySHO police grill, Covercraft hood protector, silver underhood trim, Pilot driving lamps, Sony Xplod deck, Performance Plus reinforced front mount, Performance Plus y-pipe, Dynomax Magnum bullet race mufflers w/3.5 stainless tips, Eibach springs, KYB struts, MOOG control arms, Royal Purple synthetic lubricants, custom "long throw" shifter, fresh paint, Jolly Roger insignias, trophy winning and MANY MANY mods to come!
95 SHO MTX Silver Frost 92k SOLD 4.14.01 but not forgotton!
96 Contour SE ATX V6 Midnight Red 90k, custom grill & badging, otherwise stock & under warranty
 
L

LL-Cool-A

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Alright, I'm not too good with naming car parts, but I had a similar problem. There is a hose leading to a part in the back of your engine closer to the windshield builds pressure for your brakes as well. Check under your hood and listen for a leak around the windshield, it could be a broken hose. Have you had trouble with your brakes?
 

smokesho

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I have not really had trouble with my brakes. i changed the spark plugs a few days ago, put more fuel injector cleaner in the tank, and did my best to clean the idle air bypass valve. so far it hasn't stalled. it has dropped as low as 300 rpms and fought it's way back. i think i'm gonna take another at cleaning the by pass valve.
 

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