Stalling problem (CKP, DIS, CPS?) HELP!

[SHOMA]

First off, tonight my car crapped out while driving, the tach dropped to zero, and when I finally rolled to a stop, it wouldnt restart.. I had had the codes checked last week, and it came up as a Cam Sensor, and it was right after that that it crapped out on me doing what it tonight for the first time. I replaced the cam sensor that night after it restarted 10 mins after... Tonight it did it again, tach working, furl pump purging, and with no spark to the plugs... When I unplugged the cam sensor as Eric Balser (95shoma) had told me to do, and turned the car over 10 or 12 tiems, the ar started quick and shut off.. I plugged it back in and it seems fine now... it now has a new Camshaft sensor, and the tach DOES read about 500rpms when trying to start, just wont fire... Is it possible for the crankshaft position sensor to be bad, even though the tach is reading? Did I get a bad Camshaft sensor? Thanks to all for your patience and help, I want to be able to drive this car somewhere far, and plan on it not breaking down!
Kevin

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Any codes?

Sounds like a CPS freaking out on you... time for a 60k!

 

[SHOMA]

I havent checked the codes since the other day, before the new camshaft sensor, but the cam sensor had come up as the only serious one, besides the MAF having been unplugged while running, and the speedo cable being disconnected..... Is it true the camshaft sensor and the crank sensor can throw the same code?.. The tach is working even when it doesnt start, doesnt that completely eliminate the Crank position sensor?
Kevin

 

[Dr. Tweak]

The thing is, the car should be able to start even with a bad CID (cam sensor)...




I'd reset your codes, try to start the car, and then pull your codes again...

 

[SHOMA]

What does the DIS do when it fails? The tach definitely is working, so if a bad Crank position sensor ALWAYS shuts the tach off, then its not the sensor..
Kevin

 

[MOSHO92]

My guess would be the crank position sensor. The cam sensor (when mine went bad) made for some really rough stumbles and most of the time the engine died but would restart almost imediatly.

The tach reading is found by a combination of signals from the crank and cam sensor, so it may be possible for the crank sensor to begin to die and the tach to still read rpms.

How old is the crank sensor, and your waterpump?

 

[SHOMA]

SWell, my 94 ATX had had a bad crank position sensor, but at that time, i hadnt discovered this forum, and didnt know to watch for the tach.. NOw I do, and the tachj IS working when it craps out, but the car just wont fire. Is it possible that the tach WOULD work while the Crank position sensor is bad? If so, I would also say its a crank position sensor, it does the same things my atx used to do prior to replacing it. But wouldnt the codes have brought up the crank position sensor?
Kevin

 

[SHOMA]

OKay it died out on me again last night, except I had the codes cleared yesterday, and the codes are a 211, which is the crank sensor I was told, 452 VSS (Speed sensor), and 542 (fuel pump open circuit). I was told the furl pump open circuit is due to the car stalling, for whatever reason, that being the crank sensor malfunctioning. Anyone with expertise willing to lend me a hand? I can't really bring it anywhere, as it will liklely die out on the way... Ihave a rolling chassis with 4 slicers, ATX Trans, and all 4 doors still entact, amongst other parts, and I'm willing to work out some sort of trade.. Thanks!
Kevin

 

[Slo-Sho]

In order to change out the CPS the front of the motor has to come down...If you're somewhat mechanicaly inclined it can be done inside an hour (provided everything comes apart.) The sensor itself is about $40, more or less depending on who you get it from and is held on by two phillips head screws that tend to strip easily if you're not careful. I would say the hardest part of the whole job is getting the timing belt back on, after that it's all downhill. I see you live in MA, I'm sure there is someone near you that can assist. Just remember, they're just bolts!

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

In order to change out the CPS the front of the motor has to come down...

Im not really sure what to make of that statement. I have done CPS's and never once has my motor had to come down. Follow the 60k front procedure at

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/lower60k/lower60k.htm

It will take you an afternoon to do....you are already in there...replace the other 125.00 worth of items to save you having to address this issue for another 60k.

New timing belt
new h20 pump
new CPS.

 

[Slo-Sho]

The front side of the motor basically has to be stripped (anything that is in the way atleast) right down to the timing gear, that is what I meant by "Front of the motor has to come down". I'm sorry if my "expression" has easily confused you or some others that may not have posted. I will try to use more "laymans" terms next time.

 

[SHOMA]

I know I could do the waterpump and everything, I just worry about getting the timing belt lined up correctly... Do I have to gap the crank sensor, or do I just screw it onto the car? I know I can handle the job, but someone also said it should have a crank seal replaced on it, is that necessary?
Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Slo-Sho]

The crank seal is a $6 part. As long as the cams and crank are lined up TDC it doesn't matter how the belt is put on. The markings on the belt are useless anyways once the motor has been turned.

 

[SHOMA]

Well, it look sas though I can handle it, I just want to be sure I get the cams and crank lined up... Hopefully my brother is going to help me out, he's very mechanical.... There are a few people who would be able to help me, but I would need to bring my car to them, about an hour away, and who knows if I can trust this thing with the Crank sensor going in and out..
Kevin