Spout Defaulted 10 degrees BTDC

[Jesse Menck]

what are the best ways to troubleshoot I pulled spout jumper and metered it multiple times and every time came back with 0.03 to 0.04 ohms every time I read that if I check voltage across the two outer pins of TPS it should be 5 volts which I got and that is apart of one side of the spout plug correct? and if so does that mean that side of the circuit is in tact? and does the other side just go straight to pcm? thanks car has brand new crank sensor by the way and runs great I just wanna rid the only code I have especially since it deals with timing and I want to see if it has anything to do with why my MSD ignition runs fine and will start to misfire randomly

 

[SHOdded]

I don't think you will find much sympathy for any ignition other than OEM. The 3 most common issues: misrouted plug wires, DIS backside not greased, and grounds not good.

 

[Jesse Menck]

cool thanks, I was chasing down a no spark issue which ended up being crank sensor and I did switch between multiple DIS Modules originally the DIS was spaced off of intake about 1/4" and said he didn't have any issues for 13 years but I lost the little spacers and yeah it still has a very light layer of paste but not much how much is enough? DIS is grounded straight to battery with probably a 10 gauge wire

 

[Devin]

This DIS was airgapped and has a jerry rigged ground wire? MSD ignition? Oh boy... this should be fun.

If I were you I would start by returning the ignition system to stock. There has never been any measurable gain on these cars by using non OE ignition components.

 

[Jesse Menck]

Ground wire is around lower dis bolt to intake just anther ground msd ignition is for nitrous/ timing retard

 

[Devin]

What is the timing supposed to be set to then?

 

[Jesse Menck]

Right now the MSD is just set to pull 2 degrees in the upper rpm range from stock but the computer is defaulting the timing already so msd will just pull even more off of the 10 degrees BTDC I'm unsure of stock timing new to car atleast I'm pretty sure that's how it works

 

[Racer X]

I think before people get too far into trying to troubleshoot what issues you're having, you might want to give us a complete description of what your setup is, and what it is you're trying to accomplish.

So far you've mentioned the stock DIS, and an aftermarket MSD. Are they running in tandem? Has the MSD replaced the Ford DIS?

Also, the Ford DIS module needs to be in contact with the intake runner, with a small layer of thermal paste inbetween, as the intake runner acts as a heat sink for the DIS module. Without a heat sink, the DIS will misbehave and eventually fail.

Please do us all a favor and articulate everything you're working with. Help us help you.

 

[Jesse Menck]

sorry maybe I shouldn't have mentioned the MSD at all it could be a whole separate issue or bad unit but I do know there is a plug behind the drivers headlight that just jumps all the wires in stock form and I unplug that and plug in my MSD into same port and then im running on the MSD I believe besides being able to retard timing and a couple rev limiters it just fires a hotter signal to coil pack in stock form car runs great just want to clear the SPOUT Default timing code and fix that issue and maybe it could also be the reason the MSD will run great and randomly start misfiring was just a thought

 

[Jesse Menck]

and can you elaborate a thickness (amount)needed on thermal paste? and or coverage of DIS Module

 

[luigisho]

Usually a spout error is a wiring short or pcm problem but there are more reasons that could trigger it. Run a search on the forum and several things will turn up. Not mentioning the MSD would be stupid because that is a place where an error is likely to occur.

 

[Racer X]

Let's start by removing the MSD from the picture completely. Let's get the stock setup working properly before we an introduce aftermarket system or add on.

There are two SPark OUT jumpers, one at the radiator, the other at the passenger firewall. Make sure they're both in place.

Next, the DIS. Clean the metal plate on the rear of the DIS, and the mount on the intake. Place a dime sized dab of thermal paste on the center of the DIS, and bolt it up to the intake crossover tube. Also, make sure that the intake tube bolts and brackets are clean of rust, and tightened properly. Finally, insure that the ground strap at the rear of the intake near the ECU is bolted to the firewall properly.

Side note, the lack of punctuation/ grammar is making it really difficult to understand what you're trying to say.

 

[Jesse Menck]

alright cool so now I know how much past to apply, is the second SPOUT under the radiator cover? The One closest to pcm I have metered and is a dead short with very little resistance id like to get that other one checked and then move on to harness and pcm

 

[luigisho]

http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/how-to-pull-the-spout-connector-with-pics.56278/

2nd post from bottom

Could be a ground fault with the DIS too. I think the buggy guys relocate the DIS and ground it and it works ok. Maybe Tom will chime in on that but if multiple DIS modules yield the same result probably a grounding fault somewhere in the wire or ground at the DIS

 

[Jesse Menck]

cool thanks a lot I saw that thread but missed that post I will go search for the one by the coil

 

[Jesse Menck]

found the second spout it was also in place and one side of plug metered common to I believe top pin of TPS jumper also metered good I swapped the one at the pcm with one from a different harness because the pins were twisted cleared code but haven't checked again yet to see if it fixed anything and can anyone tell me the bottom wire of the DIS left plug mine seems a little flimsy I wanted to meter the wire

 

[Jesse Menck]

code still remains

 

[kevinspann]

Do you have another DIS to try?

 

[itwonder]

can anyone tell me the bottom wire of the DIS left plug mine seems a little flimsy I wanted to meter the wire

Download the SHO Engine Book from https://www.dropbox.com/l/EeLRPOedZ8ULdnVBrTUGOo for DIS wiring diagram.

Make sure the ground strap from the rear of the intake to the car body is in place, and that the bolt that secures the end tank to the rest of the intake is secure. The wire on the bottom screw of the DIS is generally routed directly to battery negative. It's not necessary to have it there, but because it provides a direct ground for the DIS, it is useful to debug grounding issues.

 

[Jesse Menck]

I do have a couple spare DIS modules im not sure if they are good or not though I know one car will run but dies going down the road for no reason