Spark plug change help!!!!!!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

SHOfun 93

SHO Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2001
Messages
1,818
Reaction score
4
Location
Euless, Tx (Fort Worth)
Do you have a atx or an mtx? You can change the plugs in the atx by using a u-joint socket on top of a 6 inch extension on the spark plug socket. You have to remove the exhaust gas purge cannister on the back of the intake, and move some of the vacuum tubing out of the way, but it can be done. I just pull the intake. But it CAN be done without...good luck... thumbs_u
 

F-22 Raptor SHO

New Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2001
Messages
2,788
Reaction score
71
Location
7015 feet above Sea Level
My 95 ATX didnt take nearly that much work to replace the plugs. 3/8 inch ratchet, univ socket and various extentions to get the 3 plugs in back out without event.

I would say be very careful of the possible oil that may be in the plug wells. The oil and the dirt going into the cylinder will **** that cylinder over time.

Micahel
 

fredhurderjr

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
899
Reaction score
0
Location
www.neshospecialists.com
I like to pull the intake when I replace the plugs. It's not bad. On a decent day, a plug & wire change pulling the intake is about an hour for me. The big thing is to note what you take off & make sure it goes back on. The hardest part is the hoses under the IAC / TB area. A second pair of hands to lift the intake for you while you disconnect / connect helps.

I don't like using u-joints because I lose some of the feel of the threads, and I want to see that I'm not cross-threading.
 

luigisho

SHO Member
Joined
Nov 2, 2001
Messages
13,265
Reaction score
5,143
Location
va beach,va
Jonny boy, if you've never taken the intake off before here's some tips. First get a few ziplock baggies and some masking tape. Label the baggies with the bolts as they come off. You can also label the hoses as you disconnect them so you don't reconnect improperly. After removing a few times that thing will come off pretty quickly.
 

fredhurderjr

New Member
Joined
Dec 2, 2000
Messages
899
Reaction score
0
Location
www.neshospecialists.com
If you are just doing the runners, about 3 cans of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool will do. If you're pulling the whole thing apart, get 6 cans, and a Fel-Pro intake gasket set from Autozone. It's about $50.

You'll want to be prepared to suck the leaking oil out of your plug wells with a wet-vac or something similar. You can RTV the seals, or you can replace them with the cam cover gasket set, also from Autozone, for about $85. Gaskets would then total about $135. For $147 you can get the 3.2L upper gasket set from SHO Nut, and have excess gaskets for things like fuel injectors, exhaust manifolds, etc. in there as well. You won't be able to use the 3.2L head gaskets that come with the kit, but that's about it.

It all depends on how far you want to go. If you do find oil in the plug wells, and you do decide to proceed with the cam covers, be careful not to strip the cover bolts, and pay attention to where the RTV gobs are on the front of the engine by the cam seals. Clean them off, then re-apply in the same location & amount.

Good luck, Jon!
 

Dave Ladely

New Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2002
Messages
881
Reaction score
0
Location
Seattle, WA
I bought a longer spark plug socket from NAPA, was able to change all the plugs easily, removing only the plastic wire shield that is on the firewall which interferes with the rear plug removal. Took me about a half hour at the most.
 

sdpatt

Sr. SHO Engr.
Joined
Dec 6, 2000
Messages
9,670
Reaction score
383
Location
Dallas, TX
You have to remove the exhaust gas purge cannister on the back of the intake, and move some of the vacuum tubing out of the way, but it can be done
That is actually the vacuum accumulator for the secondary butterfly valves. The charcoal purge canister is below the ABS module in the driver side fender area. Just for reference.

It is much simpler to remove the plugs with the simple removal of the vacuum accumulator's 12mm bolt and the large vacuum hose on the passenger side of the rear plenum. Compared to draining a gallon of coolant and the intake removal process, I think this is a "no contest" comparison.
 

RStalveyARFF

too many shos
Joined
May 18, 2002
Messages
3,025
Reaction score
39
Location
Georgetown, MA
Scott loves draining coolant :) If you want to stay dry, just undo the 2 12mm bolts, and 2 12mm nuts on the TB, and work it's way off. Also get a 5mm allen head socket in there, and take off the IAC. But, if you're just taking the intake off, this is what you are going to find, from left to right: 212mm bolts for the intake crossover tube. LR-15mm nut, 19mm bolt, LF-12mm bolt, RR-12mm bolt, RF-12mm bolt, Right side, 12mm bolt, TB for throttle cables are 2 10mm I believe, center-10mm bolts. you'll have the 2 DIS connectors, the vacuum hose on the left rear of the intake, the electrical connector for the secondary canister, electrical connector for the IAC, the throttle cables, and 3 hoses off the TB.
 

naval-avi8or

New Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2002
Messages
1,597
Reaction score
24
Location
Chesapeake, VA
I don't know about you but I don't like to do any more than I have too. I use a spark plug socket and an extension and drive. I can get all the plugs pulled, oil cleaned out of my leaky well seals and putt evrything back together in 30-45 min. It will take that long to get the intake off. and you take a high poss. of not getting everything back together or even worse droping something down in the motor, I haven't done this but I would think it would ruin your day. Also like Scott said you gotta drain and mess with coolant as well.
 
Back
Top