So what did you do to your SHO today!?

[ThatSlowSHO]

Ran my first race yesterday. I’m pretty much stock, only mods on it were previous owner. Cold air intake and BOV are all I can tell so far. But I beat a lowered, wrapped, & boosted civic sittin on TE37’s and it’s probably the best race i’ve had so far in any of the cars i’ve owned. I still think I like the NA throttle response I got from my modded ‘08 Maxima but 305 fwhp can’t argue with 365 awhp. this race convinced me of that.

 

[kryptto]

Took photos of cylinders 3 & 4 intake valves. If you look in order - you see what 26K of no catch can using top tier gas gets ya without using CRC or having a prof cleaning using a proper machine.

I am going the commercial machine route for the first cleaning. Then I will use CRC every 2500 miles. I feel better allowing a computer controlled device to properly release the cleaner first to avoid the potential issues that can arise with big carbon deposits coming loose. I will take pics after the service and post along the way.

Cylinder 3 & 4 Intake valves and stems

 

[76FoMoCo]

I don't think they look bad at all. Thanks for sharing.

 

[kryptto]

I don't think they look bad at all. Thanks for sharing.

top tier gas and always ran from day one additives - no heavy racing or such. thanks.

 

[76FoMoCo]

top tier gas and always ran from day one additives - no heavy racing or such. thanks.

wonder how mine will look with 106 on the clock? e30 and meth for the last 66k, bet the e30 helps as I would think it shouldn't leave as much carbon.

 

[kryptto]

wonder how mine will look with 106 on the clock? e30 and meth for the last 66k, bet the e30 helps as I would think it shouldn't leave as much carbon.

I would agree it's got to burn cleaner. Will be a science experiment for sure.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Took photos of cylinders 3 & 4 intake valves. If you look in order - you see what 26K of no catch can using top tier gas gets ya without using CRC or having a prof cleaning using a proper machine.

I am going the commercial machine route for the first cleaning. Then I will use CRC every 2500 miles. I feel better allowing a computer controlled device to properly release the cleaner first to avoid the potential issues that can arise with big carbon deposits coming loose. I will take pics after the service and post along the way.

Cylinder 3 & 4 Intake valves and stems

Where are you getting a commercial cleaning with a computer controlled device. It has been a couple years since i was in the field but, we had a "professional" commercial service we offered at many shops I worked in. It was simply a can/container with a valve and hose coming off the bottom. We hung it from the hood latch. We used an adjustable "stick" to hold the throttle at about 2500 rpm. Then we had the hose with a cone shaped ****** to connect to a hose or we had adapters to put the hose on fittings on the car. Find a vacuum going to the intake and slowly open the valve until you had a slow but continuous flow. A quick search online shows the same concept but the fluid coming out the top pressurized by shop air.

Biggest reason I am asking is, I always felt the $159.99 we charged for something you could do at home with CRC or SeaFoam was a huge waste.

 

[J persons]

Took photos of cylinders 3 & 4 intake valves. If you look in order - you see what 26K of no catch can using top tier gas gets ya without using CRC or having a prof cleaning using a proper machine.

I am going the commercial machine route for the first cleaning. Then I will use CRC every 2500 miles. I feel better allowing a computer controlled device to properly release the cleaner first to avoid the potential issues that can arise with big carbon deposits coming loose. I will take pics after the service and post along the way.

Cylinder 3 & 4 Intake valves and stems

What camera did you use? I saw one on Amazon for $25 that connected to an I Phone but they didn't give much info on it.

 

[kryptto]

Where are you getting a commercial cleaning with a computer controlled device. It has been a couple years since i was in the field but, we had a "professional" commercial service we offered at many shops I worked in. It was simply a can/container with a valve and hose coming off the bottom. We hung it from the hood latch. We used an adjustable "stick" to hold the throttle at about 2500 rpm. Then we had the hose with a cone shaped ****** to connect to a hose or we had adapters to put the hose on fittings on the car. Find a vacuum going to the intake and slowly open the valve until you had a slow but continuous flow. A quick search online shows the same concept but the fluid coming out the top pressurized by shop air.

Biggest reason I am asking is, I always felt the $159.99 we charged for something you could do at home with CRC or SeaFoam was a huge waste.

Using this machine - I texted my guy. Thoughts?

ATS 3C

ATS Chemical

Official manufacturer of Bernie Thompson’s (Automotive Test Solutions) engine carbon cleaning chemicals for the auto industry located in Albuquerque New Mexico. 505 CRF, 505 CRO, 505 Pour-In

www.atschemicals.com

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Using this machine - I texted my guy. Thoughts?

ATS 3C

ATS Chemical

Official manufacturer of Bernie Thompson’s (Automotive Test Solutions) engine carbon cleaning chemicals for the auto industry located in Albuquerque New Mexico. 505 CRF, 505 CRO, 505 Pour-In

www.atschemicals.com

I have never seen this setup or heard of this company so, this is all from just what I can see/read with a quick search.

The length of time the ATS service takes depends on the ad you read (10-20 minutes depending on source). SeaFoam calls for a 5-15 minutes soak plus the about 7 minutes to apply. It comes in an aerosolized can. CRC calls for a 1 hour soak time. These are both one chemical, one step processes. They both cost $15-20. ATS is charging $280-300 for the 3 part chemicals you are looking at. All 3 parts are applied within that 10-20 minutes including the soak time. Add in your technicians labor and I am guessing it is $350-450. How close am I?

Looking at the machine, it is computer controlled. It is essentially automating the process. They attach an accelerometer to ensure the engine is running (normally done by the technician and stopped if the car stalls). Then, the system is using solenoids to send the chemicals. Basically, you pour chemicals A, B, and C into separate containers and you use a small air pump to pressurize the container (normally done with shop air or gravity). The only way to automate switching chemicals is by opening and closing each container with valves or solenoids. Because all of this is automated, now the technician can sit in the car to control throttle (like the adjustable stick that I am used to https://www.penntoolco.com/thexton-...MI8-39lZOeggMV9RetBh2NEgoCEAQYAiABEgK1VvD_BwE or an assistant).

The technician is still supposed to use their own scan tool to monitor the cars sensors, they are still supposed to control the throttle, etc.

IMHO, I have never seen a chemical cleaner that I would pay $300 for a single use application for cleaning anything. I would suggest either SeaFoam Intake or CRC Turbo for $20 and if you can't get a buddy to hang out and press the throttle, spend the $50 on the stick. Then if you want, spend another $15 on SeaFoam to dump in the fuel tank. Final addition if you really want is to spend another $15 on SeaFoam and put it in your oil. I highly recommend changing turbo filters after that though. Using these 3 steps, you would clean the Intake/valves/throttle body, fuel system/injectors, and oil system (especially solenoids and tight passages) for $100 (plus turbo filters if you decide to do them). The ATS system will do the intake and valves only, leaving fuel and oil systems dirty, and cost you at least $300. Take the money you save and put it towards a catch can system and/or a meth system.

 

[kryptto]

$229 for the service they say it takes an hour. I plan on having the oil changed. I did not think of the turbo filters, that would be a great idea. The scan tools they have, so not too worried.

The catch can upgrading to UPR shortly - I posted in general - my J&T is crap. Had it on for 2 oil changes with no real accumulation. It's only a dirty side system.

I super appreciate the feedback. Will definitely look at having the turbo filters checked and cleaned.

I do need a stick to do the service myself. My wife... Not a person I would go to for the job.

Thanks much, I will be scooping the intake after
... So more to come.

 

[Joshw0000]

At the expense of sounding like a dummy here....

Where are the turbo filters and is this a maintenance item I should be concerned with?

My JLT catch can was relatively inexpensive and works great. I dump an ounce or 2 every 5,000 miles.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

 

[76FoMoCo]

At the expense of sounding like a dummy here....

Where are the turbo filters and is this a maintenance item I should be concerned with?

My JLT catch can was relatively inexpensive and works great. I dump an ounce or 2 every 5,000 miles.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

The are located in the oil inlet line were it meets the turbo. You have to take out the banjo bolt holding it to the turbo. No need to clean them just keep up on your oil changes.

 

[Bronco2fan]

New tires on it yesterday. Continental DWS Extremes 255's this time. Night and day difference between them and the Pirellis. They even feel better to me, if that makes sense. The Pirellis had a manufacture date from 2016, so it was time, plus, winter is coming.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

At the expense of sounding like a dummy here....

Where are the turbo filters and is this a maintenance item I should be concerned with?

My JLT catch can was relatively inexpensive and works great. I dump an ounce or 2 every 5,000 miles.

Sent from my Pixel 7 Pro using Tapatalk

It is not a normal maintenance item. However, when using a cleaner in the oil, the debris broke loose may be in the flow path between the oil filter and the turbo filter. I believe this is what happened to mine. A couple thousand after the oil cleaning, I lost the rear turbo. The shaft broke, I assume from a lack of lubrication. When I pulled the turbo filters, they were covered in dark deposits/chunks (none shiny). However, it would not be a bad item to change on a higher mileage vehicle or a vehicle with an unknown maintenance history.

 

[TheOGScooby]

Replaced one side of my brakes and rotors this evening. Went with EBC yellow stuff pads and R1 rotors. Passenger front went fine, but when I got to the pass rear I quickly realized that the piston rewind tool I bought from Autozone was quite a piece of junk. Fortunately a colleague of mine had a universal set and was able to then rewind the piston quite easily. Going back to.orrow morning to finish the job and just quick check the passenger side as it sounded like there was some play somewhere on the way home. I do love the new look though, so hopefully everything goes smoothly tomorrow morning.

 

[Joshw0000]

They've got good stopping power but be prepared to clean your wheels weekly, if not sooner. Brake dust is bad for the life of those pads.

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[TheOGScooby]

Got brakes all finished up, downpipes are here, exhaust wrap is here, been in contact with Brad, been seriously thinking about going down the E30 rabbit hole. Originally I wanted to just go full bolt on and stuck with 93, maybe even run some 260GT because I didn't want to deal with mixing e85 and 93. But now that I'm seeing more and more benefits of switching over to e30 it has me curious, especially because e85 is pretty common down here and a while lot less expensive than 250GT . 1st, am I going to need a HPFP to run E30, and 2nd does anyone know an estimated power gain going from 93 to e30?

 

[J persons]

Installed a hidden GPS tracker, in case some low life has a lus t for my car. It's pretty easy to install, just a power and a ground wire, register the devise on their website and within a couple of hours, it will start sending you the location. I chose the mid plan for monitoring, it's around $24/month paid quarterly.
On their website they show the devise attached to the fuse box. I thought that was a little too obvious so I hid it so that it would still receive a signal, but can't be easily seen. They can be installed under the hood or in the cockpit. Available at Amazon.

GPS Trackers for your business or family

Licensed security experts specializing in GPS tracking, and mobile video to meet your security needs.

www.brickhousesecurity.com

 

[76FoMoCo]

Got brakes all finished up, downpipes are here, exhaust wrap is here, been in contact with Brad, been seriously thinking about going down the E30 rabbit hole. Originally I wanted to just go full bolt on and stuck with 93, maybe even run some 260GT because I didn't want to deal with mixing e85 and 93. But now that I'm seeing more and more benefits of switching over to e30 it has me curious, especially because e85 is pretty common down here and a while lot less expensive than 250GT . 1st, am I going to need a HPFP to run E30, and 2nd does anyone know an estimated power gain going from 93 to e30?

E30 brad will do without the hPFP BUT it runs a little closer to the edge. With the hpfp you can run anyplace between e30-40 and not worry to bad about it. The mixing is not that big of deal, but you need to know the content of the E85 your getting as they are not all equal. So buy a cheap tester and test a few places a few times to get the idea of % of E. The place I get the E85 is all way 85-88 so for me i just put in 5 gal and then put in 7.5 to 8 of 91 non e. http://www.wallaceracing.com/ethanol-mix-calc.php E30 does make a bit more power as to what my butt dyno is guessing around 40 more horses.