So what did you do to your SHO today!?

[Cannon762]

H&R Springs installed, and aligned. Actually eyeballed the camber pretty well with the SPC bolts, but the toe on all 4 was out of whack by a couple degrees. The springs are my favorite mod after the tune. I was a little apprehensive about doing it after reading reviews, but I think it should have felt like this from the factory. I'd had a stupid JK Jeep that was lifted and it felt like a damn lumber wagon, so that's what I was expecting, but now it just feels a little sportier and it looks 10x better.

 

[SM105K]

Looks good dude. Change out the grill and it will really set it off.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

H&R Springs installed, and aligned. Actually eyeballed the camber pretty well with the SPC bolts, but the toe on all 4 was out of whack by a couple degrees. The springs are my favorite mod after the tune. I was a little apprehensive about doing it after reading reviews, but I think it should have felt like this from the factory. I'd had a stupid JK Jeep that was lifted and it felt like a damn lumber wagon, so that's what I was expecting, but now it just feels a little sportier and it looks 10x better.

looks great!

 

[jman1200]

Going back to rust, here are some pics of what I'm doing. It all started with a little bubbling on the rear quarter panel, where the wheel arc meets the bumper... and one thing led to another, and another, and...
Removed the inner plastic fender and found a bad spot inside, was able to remove all of it. Then decided to take care off all surface rust I could see, inside both rear quarter panels, undercarriage, suspension components and even removed the rocker panel covers which are supposed to be non-reusable but was able to take them off without breaking any clips so we'll see.
Power washed it, used a wire brush, masked the exhaust and body parts at risk and then applied ample amounts of rust converter.

I'm glad I removed the rocker panel covers. This was hidden behind them:





This is after applying the rust converter.

 

[Zpak]

Looks like my future

How does the inside lip of your trunk lid look? I just noticed mine is starting to bubble.

 

[jman1200]

Definitely not something I enjoy doing but I hope I can extend the life of it by doing this. My son who is just 16 YO wants it whenever I move onto something else.
The rust won't stop as it is impossible to treat every angle, nook and cranny but it will slow it down, did the same to my old Mazda 6 years ago and it is still looking good.
I'll also apply ample amounts of rust-protective lubricant everywhere after the undercoating dries out.

I envy those who live in areas where rust is a myth.

 

[802SHO]

So spent some time with a torch, pipe wrench, sledge hammer.....to no success. The ABS sensor also not wanting to budge. Well if I need to take the knuckle off it'll need to come out....RIP ABS sensor now....after a bunch of time prying it all around ...the plastic broke where the bolt goes....then the wirea actually broke....that ABS sensor is also frozen inside ...I just don't get it.

Mind you, I've replaced my front struts and had no problem removing the ABS sensors out of both front knuckles....

So NOW my question is...can I drill the ABS sensor out and save the knuckle? There's a chance I can still free the hub/bearing trying the bolt method...but either way I'll need to drill out this stuck ABS sensor....or buy a new knuckle??

 

[Zpak]

Ouch! Man that sucks. What a PITA!

 

[jman1200]

So NOW my question is...can I drill the ABS sensor out and save the knuckle? There's a chance I can still free the hub/bearing trying the bolt method...but either way I'll need to drill out this stuck ABS sensor....or buy a new knuckle??

I'd drill out the sensor and of the threads are still good after, I'd reuse it.

 

[SM105K]

I would just buy a new knuckle. Clearly something was up with that corner of the car from the previous owner. Re-starting new sounds like a way better option IMHO.

 

[FiveLeeter918]

So spent some time with a torch, pipe wrench, sledge hammer.....to no success. The ABS sensor also not wanting to budge. Well if I need to take the knuckle off it'll need to come out....RIP ABS sensor now....after a bunch of time prying it all around ...the plastic broke where the bolt goes....then the wirea actually broke....that ABS sensor is also frozen inside ...I just don't get it.

Mind you, I've replaced my front struts and had no problem removing the ABS sensors out of both front knuckles....

So NOW my question is...can I drill the ABS sensor out and save the knuckle? There's a chance I can still free the hub/bearing trying the bolt method...but either way I'll need to drill out this stuck ABS sensor....or buy a new knuckle??View attachment 14839

sounds like a good time to upgrade to 2013+ components... but that's just me...

 

[jman1200]

More of my "de-rusturization"

Almost done, looks great and hopefully it extends the life of the vehicle.
Two years ago when I bought my SHO my son said if he could have it at some point to which I said that I'd sell it to him for $5k whenever I was done with it.
Yesterday he said "so, now that there is some rust, you'll give it to me for free?"
I told him "no, now that its fixed its going to be $10k"





Need to replace the rocker panel bottom trim clips, found a few online but if anyone can confirm the PN I'd appreciate it. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078YSN82X...olid=1KXKXGSQ0TH58&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

[luigisho]

There's a chance I can still free the hub/bearing trying the bolt method...but either way I'll need to drill out this stuck ABS sensor....or buy a new knuckle??View attachment 14839

So does it look like this? The sensor hole should be smooth with a threaded hole for the attachment bolt. You can drill the broken part out carefully.

Check this out at 12:25. He pulled the knuckle off to film it but you can do it in car.

 

[802SHO]

So does it look like this? The sensor hole should be smooth with a threaded hole for the attachment bolt. You can drill the broken part out carefully.

Check this out at 12:25. He pulled the knuckle off to film it but you can do it in car.

You're the man! I have my mechanic friend stopping by in a little bit. According to him it'll come right out ....this will be entertaining...I hope he's right...he insisted as well he could probably push the sensor out but...he doesn't realize it's like more or less glued in apparently!

 

[luigisho]

That thing looks pretty stuck. What I don't know is how far to hit the tone ring and if that matters.

There's a video of a guy removing it with a screw, a propane torch, screw driver, pliers and water bottle. Heat the screw real good, Screw it into the plastic and it melts around it, hit it with some water to cool it and pull it out. No idea if that works in the real world. Worked on his video.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

That thing looks pretty stuck. What I don't know is how far to hit the tone ring and if that matters.

There's a video of a guy removing it with a screw, a propane torch, screw driver, pliers and water bottle. Heat the screw real good, Screw it into the plastic and it melts around it, hit it with some water to cool it and pull it out. No idea if that works in the real world. Worked on his video.

That would certainly work if you get it hot enough and it melts without gluing to the metal threads. however, if you know the inside diameter of the tapped hole you should be able to get a drill, very close to that size, and drill it out. Therefore removing all inside pieces and making extraction of the plastic threads a breeze.
The other option is to drill it out, oversized, to the correct size for a helicoil of the correct thread pitch and diameter and install a helicoil.


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[luigisho]

The other option is to drill it out, oversized, to the correct size for a helicoil of the correct thread pitch and diameter and install a helicoil.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking at the replacement, as I haven't looked at it on the car, the threaded hole with attachment bolt, is offset from the smooth hole where the actual sensor enters inside the knuckle. So if the bolt came out but the sensor part is stuck you just have to remove it without worrying about threads and helicoils.

If you look at the part pic I posted above you can see where the bolt goes seperate from the sensor. That is assuming the design is similar on the rear knuckle.

 

[Michigan-SHO]

Looking at the replacement, as I haven't looked at it on the car, the threaded hole with attachment bolt, is offset from the smooth hole where the actual sensor enters inside the knuckle. So if the bolt came out but the sensor part is stuck you just have to remove it without worrying about threads and helicoils.

Got ya. I was thinking the abs was threaded like a Proximity switch almost, where it needed to bottom out at a certain distance to “make” a connection.


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[Wsho]

G what's wrong with this picture. The shop started working on my engine this week . I'm so effing tired of buying parts turns out they're not the right parts Or should I say engine.

 

[luigisho]

Wait. Whuh happened?