So what did you do to your SHO today!?

[Zpak]

I’d recommend the UPR. I change oil at 3000 and during summer months it’s basically full in that interval. During the winter I need to empty at least twice in 3000 miles from collected oil and condensation.

Also, while it would be nice, we don’t have enough clearance under the can to install the drain.

 

[studio460]

Cool, Zpak—thank you for the info!

 

[studio460]

Good to know, kryptto—thanks! It's one of those mods which makes total sense on paper, but perhaps not necessarily in practice in every use-case. Since I'm no longer working, I'm hardly putting any miles on any of my vehicles. The SHO is pretty much the only car I drive now and the odometer is still somewhere in the 15,000s (bought the car in early February at 14,538). Also, perhaps the better catch-cans catch more gunk (and the UPR seems like a pretty good one)?

 

[kryptto]

Good to know, kryptto—thanks! It's one of those mods which makes total sense on paper, but perhaps not necessarily in practice in every use-case. Since I'm no longer working, I'm hardly putting any miles on any of my vehicles. The SHO is pretty much the only car I drive now and the odometer is still somewhere in the 15,000s (bought the car in early February at 14,538). Also, perhaps the better catch-cans catch more gunk (and the UPR seems like a pretty good one)?

Look, I am like many - this engine has a horrible issue with carbon buildup on the valves, cylinders and intake. One preventative measure is adding a catch can to collect crap and not let it free float and recycle in the system. Another is making the engine noisy and VTA the built up turbo gasses filled with unspent fuel and dirty carbon waste heating the cold air back into the engine.

So I would contend Ford engineers and other companies know the benefit to catch cans, however adding yet another item to the list for the general consumer to keep an eye on is ridiculous to consider. So they leave them out, and planned obsolescence and early failure drive capitalism.

I just need a catch can that works, and in my opinion the J&L is an overpriced POS.

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[studio460]

Blacked-out my rear-spear (again):

Today, I finally covered the p*ss-poor paint job I did on my rear spear with an almost equally sh*tty job of applying some 3M vehicle tape. At least now, the car doesn't look like a wreck anymore (if viewed from a few feet away). Note that the Tamiya model paint which I used to tint the Ford logo (shown in my 2019 SHO photos thread) doesn't stick—it peels-off very easily after just a few weeks. Need to sand first, then apply a good epoxy-based paint instead.

 

[kryptto]

It looks good to me you would need to point out the issue.

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[Zpak]

I used the Etsy guy’s overlays for the Ford emblems. Holding up pretty well after four’ish years.

 

[studio460]

Thanks, kryptto, but if viewed closer, some of the edge-cuts are a little raggedy. Zpak—that's great to know! Please share a link if you still have it—thanks! Wait . . . whoa! I just went to Etsy and typed "Ford overlay" and quite a nice assortment showed up!

 

[toms89]

SHO is finally starting to show some potential since the "upgraded" turbo install a little over 6 months ago! Seat of the pants feels about as fast as it was with the stock turbo's on my AJP Turbo methanol tune. Looking forward to receiving a meth tune for the current setup!

 

[kryptto]

Thanks, kryptto, but if viewed closer, some of the edge-cuts are a little raggedy. Zpak—that's great to know! Please share a link if you still have it—thanks! Wait . . . whoa! I just went to Etsy and typed "Ford overlay" and quite a nice assortment showed up!

I just black everything OUT - LOL after using 3M film and chrome deleted - just cover over the emblems. The outlines of the emblem are there. Good luck with your project.

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[studio460]

Yes, I plan to. I only applied the 3M tape to the passenger-side window so far. Running a razor-blade against the weatherstripping is a bit hairy since it easily cuts through the soft rubber. Funny—I just noticed that my GF's Fusion SE's window-trim is already blacked-out from the factory!

More badges to paint:

Since the Tamiya model paint was an utter fail, I'll be looking for a translucent epoxy-paint to do the fender SHO-emblems as well. Will do the same to the SHO/EcoBoost badge on the rear (which I've decided to keep). When I installed the PI-grille, I wasn't aware at the time of the all-black lower-grille assembly, so I still have the factory lower-grille there. Still on the fence whether I like the original (chromed) grille or the elongated, all-black PI-grille. If I keep it, I'll either tape or paint-out the chrome-trim.

Initially, I was really excited to get the Rotora calipers, but the brightly colored brakes will subtract from the car's PI/stealth-theme (also, it's not like I have the power which requires such a substantial brake-upgrade). Maybe I'll just paint the factory calipers in high-temp, gloss-black.

If I get really excited, one day I'll order the PI-taillights . . .

 

[76FoMoCo]

Yes, I plan to. I only applied the 3M tape to the passenger-side window so far. Running a razor-blade against the weatherstripping is a bit hairy since it easily cuts through the soft rubber. Funny—I just noticed that my GF's Fusion SE's window-trim is already blacked-out from the factory!

More badges to paint:

Since the Tamiya model paint was an utter fail, I'll be looking for a translucent epoxy-paint to do the fender SHO-emblems as well. Will do the same to the SHO/EcoBoost badge on the rear (which I've decided to keep). When I installed the PI-grille, I wasn't aware at the time of the all-black lower-grille assembly, so I still have the factory lower-grille there. Still on the fence whether I like the original (chromed) grille or the elongated, all-black PI-grille. If I keep it, I'll either tape or paint-out the chrome-trim.

Initially, I was really excited to get the Rotora calipers, but the brightly colored brakes will subtract from the car's PI/stealth-theme (also, it's not like I have the power which requires such a substantial brake-upgrade). Maybe I'll just paint the factory calipers in high-temp, gloss-black.

If I get really excited, one day I'll order the PI-taillights . . .

This gets a few laughs

 

[kryptto]

This gets a few laughs

@76FoMoCo - I seriously like those rims... mind sharing the manufacturer name or model?

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[Texas Marauder]

When I installed the PI-grille, I wasn't aware at the time of the all-black lower-grille assembly, so I still have the factory lower-grille there. Still on the fence whether I like the original (chromed) grille or the elongated, all-black PI-grille. If I keep it, I'll either tape or paint-out the chrome-trim.

The PI lower grille is completely different and will not fit. The lower grille for your car is available in black or chrome trimmed, like yours.

If I get really excited, one day I'll order the PI-taillights . . .

The PI tail lights may require rewiring. They have a combined brake/turn vs separate brake and turn on the SHO. Forscan can probably do it but, I think you are on your own figuring it out.

 

[studio460]

The PI lower grille is completely different and will not fit. The lower grille for your car is available in black or chrome trimmed, like yours.

View attachment 87097


The PI tail lights may require rewiring. They have a combined brake/turn vs separate brake and turn on the SHO. Forscan can probably do it but, I think you are on your own figuring it out.

Thanks again for the clarification—someday I'll finally get it! So, the first part you listed fits our SHOs and has the chrome-delete, and is also the one with the elongated-vents (and, I take it that the bezel-inserts are only needed for the chromed version). Thanks for taking the time to post those part diagrams!

Interesting note about having to re-wire the taillights; that's enough to scare me off from doing it—thanks!

Now all I have left to do are those pesky door trim pieces—three more to go—and my custom SCT-tune/plugs/stat/3-bar/MSD coil-packs. Still deciding on HPFP (depends on labor cost). Oh yeah, and tomorrow I'll apply my cheap eBay "carbonfiber-look" door-sill stickers. Woohoo! Aside from the rear-spear paint job screw-up, the car's coming along quite nicely!

 

[studio460]

Rotora is having a massive 40% off spring sale ends 5/31/23. View attachment 86955
I asked about 13+ since I have the steering knuckles. I was just looking for the front but fell victim to the sale. I’ve got F & R 380mm rotors with airfoil slotted 2 piece rotors with 6 piston F and 4 piston R calipers in gloss black coming. With shipping and tax just over $4,200 instead of $6,000+ tax and shipping. Many colors to choose from and choice of drilled or slotted.View attachment 86956View attachment 86957View attachment 86958View attachment 86959View attachment 86960View attachment 86961View attachment 86962View attachment 86963

Hey, guys—I'm on the phone with Loren right now at Rotora. Just a quick question: Not sure what size brakes/discs fit my Gen.4 2019 SHO PP. Note that I have the 2012 SHO factory wheels mounted. Larson told me 802SHO ordered a larger set [380mm as mentioned above] than listed in the table previously posted (these are prices for the smaller set). Planning to order the larger, 380mm set (priced higher) like 802SHO ordered for my 2012 SHO wheels.

Update: Put a deposit on the 380mm set to hold the sale price: $6,490 for both front/rears, less a 40% discount = $3,894 (plus tax and Amex fee). Rotora sent me a paper-template to test-fit but I won't be able to pull my wheels to check until after Memorial Day. So a pretty good deal which is hard to pass up—my first big brake kit ever! 802SHO got back to me and said I only need spacers to clear the calipers, but I think everything else he ordered should fit my 2012 SHO 20" x 8.5" wheels.

Oh yeah: Decided on dark metallic blue.

 

[AzSHOluv]

I'm interested Rotora big brake kit as well! I have a 2018 pp with stock flower wheels so I'm guessing I would need a wheel spacer too?

 

[802SHO]

I'm interested Rotora big brake kit as well! I have a 2018 pp with stock flower wheels so I'm guessing I would need a wheel spacer too?

Yes

 

[802SHO]

@studio460 @AzSHOluv I am basing the spacer needed as an assumption from the TCE Wilwood kit needed for OEM wheels. Safe assumption I think.
I’d recommend finding and buying something off Amazon once your Rotora kit ships. Have something ready to go for install. Return if not needed. However I wouldn’t buy spacers before it ships so you are within the return time frame.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Finally got a couple of hours free this weekend to work on my car. I was able to remove both turbos in about 4 hours. I was actually able to get the rear out without dropping the subframe or removing the axle. I took the wastegate off, took the two bolts that hold the intermediate shaft to the block out, slid the axle out a little to get the bracket out of the way, twisted the turbo so the hot side was up, and snaked it out cold side first. The bad news is the housings are 790317-0007 and 790317-0009. CR Performance claims their CHRA cores only work on the 790317-0006 and 790317-0008 so, I need to call them and see what the incompatibility is. Also, found out while taking them apart that, the rear wastegate e-clip was missing. It was still functioning, just missing the securing clip.