So what did you do to your SHO today!?

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Angrymongoose

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20190724 190129 20190724 190132 Finally got my first ptu fluid change done at roughly 31k miles now. I got about 10 ounces or so out and while it was black it was nice and runny. There was no sludginess which was reassuring. I managed to get the vent tube off and the fuel hose on to fill without a problem. The only thing I can't do is get the damn fuel hose off so I can put the oem vent tube back on. So big extended fill hose stays on for now.
 

Angrymongoose

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Also for those that want to use the vent tube method to fill the ptu, I found funnels that fit perfectly inside the 1/4 inch fuel hose we use to extend the vent.
Eisco Labs 4 Piece Plastic Funnel Set - 2 1/4", 2 3/4", 3 1/4", 3 15/16" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L88ZTGI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GrBoDbHM27NAV
They made it real easy to pour the fluid in and go about clean up while waiting for it to all flow down and into the ptu.
 

6500rpm

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View attachment 9874 View attachment 9875 Finally got my first ptu fluid change done at roughly 31k miles now. I got about 10 ounces or so out and while it was black it was nice and runny. There was no sludginess which was reassuring. I managed to get the vent tube off and the fuel hose on to fill without a problem. The only thing I can't do is get the damn fuel hose off so I can put the oem vent tube back on. So big extended fill hose stays on for now.

I'm guessing you have a PP. Fwiw, I used clear plastic tubing from Amazon, on/off no problem and it makes it easy to see the fluid when going back in. I also ended up with about 12oz with the car tilted to the side with jack stands. The PP cars fluid seems to hold up a little better with the cooler from what I've seen posted.
 

Angrymongoose

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Yeah mine is a PP. I never considered the clear tubing, that would have been nice to be able to see. Might have been easier to get back off too. I would really like to get the original vent back on there, but I guess it probably isn't a big deal either.
 

SM105K

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I'm guessing you have a PP. Fwiw, I used clear plastic tubing from Amazon, on/off no problem and it makes it easy to see the fluid when going back in. I also ended up with about 12oz with the car tilted to the side with jack stands. The PP cars fluid seems to hold up a little better with the cooler from what I've seen posted.

From my research there are less PP PTU failures.
 

OmaHahn

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OmaHahn

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Installed the powerstop brake kit. New rotors and pads. Also did a fresh oil change after running a can of bg 44k through it. Oil only had 1900 on it. Pretty dark. Was pennzoil platinum before. E7097d764bdf27d74d4a092b294d6ebd

Sent from my LM-Q610(FGN) using Tapatalk

Should've painted the calipers while you were at it.
 

Angrymongoose

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I'm right around the Millard airport. I work in old town Bellevue though so I spend plenty of time on the highway through town.
 

OmaHahn

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Millard, close to my old stomping grounds - 136th & Pacific & Center area. My on the very far Northwest corner.
 

Angrymongoose

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I know it would look weird but I've always really liked some of the greens powder coaters use. I know they all have different names, but candy green and psycho green are what I see a lot of them called that I like.
 

OmaHahn

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I'm going to make mine a nice blue color, Audi has this Sepang blue I think world look great against my silver paint and I'm getting black wheels along with a brake kit like this.
 

David Miller

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First of the mods are done, de-badged 2018 SHO (non pp) and my extra lights are done. Relayed to high beams. (2) 6" 70 watt LED spot lights and a 240 watt 24" single row, double LED light bar.20190727 192040 20190727 193730
 

David Miller

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For the light bar, I used a bolt on the bottom of the metal bumper on the drivers side and installed nutsert on the passenger side. Luckily it centered fairly well. Also had to extend the brackets to get the light low enough to clear the bumper cover. Nutsert are your friends. Use large enough one to hold lights securely. I used 1/4" ones for light bar and 10mm for top lights. Measure twice, drill once...lol
 

gwrabbit

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Took the SHO in for some more maintenance. Had a check engine light that's been on since early June. I managed to pull the code with my ODB II Scanner and got a code of P0420/P0430, Catalytic Converter Efficiency. Didn't notice any performance decrease or anything out of the ordinary since this came on.

Shop also scanned and pulled the P0420 code. They said not to worry about it unless it pops up again. I also have an aftermarket exhaust (Corsa). Anyways, got the spark plugs and coil boots changed out. Also had the mass air flow sensor, throttle body cleaned and got a new cabin and engine air filter.

Holy ******* balls batman, what a difference in both performance and how well it's doing now. Before it would feel like it would take forever to accelerate and was often sluggish. Used to have a rough idle (RPM's would be bouncing around in park.). All of that has now seemingly gone away.

I think it's safe to say the person before me didn't take real good care of this car. Luckily, there is nothing else that has crept up. The only things I have left to do before I tune it is getting the front sway bar links changed out and a transmission flush.
 

OmaHahn

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Had my car in the Ford shop under warranty to look at DTC P0020. Technician just had to go in a clean the module, etc, nothing major and no charge! While the car was there, had the fuel injectors cleaned. Car has 47,000 miles and I've used the BG or B&G whatever it's called in the tank mixed with gas, but they actually run this BG through full concentrate at the fuel rail into the injectors - I swear it made a difference...unless it's some kind of placebo effect.
 

luigisho

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but they actually run this BG through full concentrate at the fuel rail into the injectors - I swear it made a difference...unless it's some kind of placebo effect.
Maybe placebo, but that's the only way I ever heard of it making much difference. The gas tank stuff not so much
 

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