So the engine and trans don't want to go together

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93redATX

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Input shaft is lined up perfectly from what I can tell, but the damn things just won't go together. How much force does this usually take? :confused:

Also, the front motor mount stud is getting hung up on the subframe; would the re-install just go smoother if I disconnected the trans mount and tried it from that angle? It seems to be the only way this thing is going to go back together is by really manhandling the transmission into place. :nut:
 

TYSHO

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Becareful not to hang the transmission shaft on the clutch disc. When installing, try twisting the transmission back and fourth, trying to get the shaft splines to align with the clutch disc splines.
 

AREA 91

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Check to make sure the dowel pins are in the block. I changed out an MTX4, and couldn't for the love of god get them together. Turns out, there was a dowel in the trans. Dowel on dowel dosn't workwell. :nut:
 

93redATX

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Yeah, I'm using a leveler...although it seems like the engine is sitting a little off-axis if you know what I mean. I've got the engine hooked up at the corners; one at the alternator lift point, and another on the rear driver side. I very nearly got it together last night but the gas ran out in my heater, so I didn't finish. Sitting in an unheated garage when it is about 8 degrees outside is not my cup of tea :nut:
 

Off Road SHO

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I take it you didn't use a clutch line-up tool when you bolted the pressure plate to the flywheel. You can make one out of a 6" wooden dowel that fits snugly in the hole in the back end of the crank. Insert the dowel in the crank, temporarily slide just the clutch disc over the dowel and against the flywheel. Make sure you have the disc facing the right way. Make a mark on the dowel where the spline of the disc ends.

Remove the disc and then wrap tape around the dowel until the disc fits snugly over the tape. Re-insert the dowel in the crank and slip the disc onto the taped dowel. Voila', your clutch disc is now centered on the flywheel. Bolt down the pressure plate with locktight and then remove the dowel. Don't forget to grease up the pilot hole and or the tranny shaft before mating the two together, they spin independent of each other when you push in on the clutch pedal.

Good luck.

Tom

You might still have to wriggle and twist a little
 

93redATX

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I didn't replace the clutch, I was swapping engines. The old engine in the '90 was in rough shape so I pulled the engine out of the '91 parts car I had.

Also, the clutch from the '91 only has about 20k on it, so it is still in great shape. With my luck, though, the day after the car is back together the clutch will start slipping :bonk:
 

1slickRED89

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I have had good luck hitting the clutch disc splines with a little V-file to open up the grooves a bit. makes a big diffrence.
 

rlw001

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I used tie-down straps to support the tranny which allowed me to wiggle the tranny and take the weight off the spline.
 

Rockledge

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rlw001 said:
I used tie-down straps to support the tranny which allowed me to wiggle the tranny and take the weight off the spline.
What do you supoort it from?
 

Minnesho

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i did it in my driveway, on jackstands and i just got under the car and lifted the trans up by hand. not too fun, but it wasnt that big of a deal either. I also lifted the subframe up by hand now that was not fun! I was by myself too.
 

Bringetto

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yay, sounds like fun, once i get my tranny out ill be going through this i guess.

One question, do you have to take the sway bar off? I plan on just lowering the drivers side of the subframe and pulling the tranny out the side. Will it work?
 

TYSHO

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Bringetto said:
yay, sounds like fun, once i get my tranny out ill be going through this i guess.

One question, do you have to take the sway bar off? I plan on just lowering the drivers side of the subframe and pulling the tranny out the side. Will it work?

I never removed the sway bar, through the fenderwell or bottom.
 

Rockledge

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Here's a trick that worked pretty good for me:

The Taurus subframe bolts just happen to be the same size threads as the bolts that secure the MTX to the engine. I had a few old subframe bolts lying around so I cut them down to about 3" or so and then cut a slit on the top to accomodate a flathead screwdriver. I threaded them into a couple of tranny bolt holes to act as guides to help line up the tranny while wrestling around with it. Once the tranny is aligned and you are able to get a regular tranny bolt caught, you can then just unscrew the subframe bolts and put in the tranny bolts. :thumb:
 

Minnesho

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with the hassle of trying to wresle the trans through the fender well you'd be better off just dropping the subframe. its really not that tough of a job.
 

OzzmanNT

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It really wasn't that hard to replace the tranny in my 91 through the fenderwell. There needs to be a lot of cursing, realigning, some supporting, and then some kick the crap out of the tranny until it goes on there.

Granted I've done easier FWD tranny installs, but this wasn't that bad.
 

operdot

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Off Road SHO said:
Remove the disc and then wrap tape around the dowel until the disc fits snugly over the tape. Re-insert the dowel in the crank and slip the disc onto the taped dowel.

That's a really great idea, but what I have found out in a few clutch jobs recently is that even with a clutch alignment tool the clutch doesn't get perfectly centered, what I used was a digital caliper that measured to 1000th of an inch. I guess I'm a little persistent because I have read that the clutch aligns itself automatically at the first startup :shrug: is this true?
 
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SASHO91

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I just drop the driver side subframe(allthough both motor mounts, front pass. side subframe bolts, and the driver side steering rack nut have to come off...NOTICE: i had GIII SFB's, so i had enough play in the bushings, this may not work with ALSFB's)
and remove and install it from the front... real easy with two people.

what i do sometimes is i will put the tranny into gear that way i can turn the input shaft as were are trying to push the trans... but most times it will just slide right on in...
 

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