so, lets talk bigger turbo's????????

[kikkinasphalt]

i figure the stock turbos will be good to the 11's, thats why i was kinda curious if anyone knows what kind of rating they have

hopefully i'll get all the exiting stuff done in the next week or 2, then we just have to work on the intake system

curious if the stock wastegates will be adequate too???

Terry, have you givin any thought to an e85 tune? im pretty sure the eccosho is e85 friendly and thats where id go next.

e85 oct rating is +100 i believe. however it will take "more" fuel to produce the same power.

i would say install a NESHO exhaust and spend a day on a dayno, with some e85 and just bump the boost a little each pull and go till your a/f's get iffy or you quit making power.. if your pushing 30 lbs at the manifold each turbo should be only running at 15 lbs. thats not a lot for that size of turbo. **** those old IHI's on the probe gt's are about that same size and 15 lbs on those was commonplace.


good luck

 

[firebat45]

if your pushing 30 lbs at the manifold each turbo should be only running at 15 lbs.

Actually, no. Both turbos are running at the same pressure, having two of them just simplifies exhaust plumbing and increases airflow capacity (not pressure).

 

[kikkinasphalt]

Actually, no. Both turbos are running at the same pressure, having two of them just simplifies exhaust plumbing and increases airflow capacity (not pressure).

so both turbos would have to produce 30 lbs in order to make 30 lbs at the manifold?

well the idea still rings true, each turbo shares 1/2 the work?

 

[beefcake]

Terry, have you givin any thought to an e85 tune? im pretty sure the eccosho is e85 friendly and thats where id go next.

e85 oct rating is +100 i believe. however it will take "more" fuel to produce the same power.

i would say install a NESHO exhaust and spend a day on a dayno, with some e85 and just bump the boost a little each pull and go till your a/f's get iffy or you quit making power.. if your pushing 30 lbs at the manifold each turbo should be only running at 15 lbs. thats not a lot for that size of turbo. **** those old IHI's on the probe gt's are about that same size and 15 lbs on those was commonplace.


good luck

i don't think the SHO is e85 friendly

might have to go meth

 

[Toolman]

in talking with the ECOboost engineers, an E85 version could be in the works. According to the them, the currenct fuel system capacity is not E85 friendly. But, as safe as they were making the stock tune, I bet the fuel system can handle the extra fuel. If it can handle it enough to get you safely into the 11's, I am not sure, we need to see some datalogs.

Do you know how much boost you were seeing during your 12.75 run? I suspect you are pushing those little turbo's pretty close to their max already. I would bet a wooden nickel that they will be a bit outside their efficiency range if pushed hard enough to see 11's. At that point, I would definitely be interested in my IAT's. Does the stock IC allow for a sprayer?

 

[beefcake]

in talking with the ECOboost engineers, an E85 version could be in the works. According to the them, the currenct fuel system capacity is not E85 friendly. But, as safe as they were making the stock tune, I bet the fuel system can handle the extra fuel. If it can handle it enough to get you safely into the 11's, I am not sure, we need to see some datalogs.

Do you know how much boost you were seeing during your 12.75 run? I suspect you are pushing those little turbo's pretty close to their max already. I would bet a wooden nickel that they will be a bit outside their efficiency range if pushed hard enough to see 11's. At that point, I would definitely be interested in my IAT's. Does the stock IC allow for a sprayer?

were going to try to get some of that info today.

 

[SHO#7]

I would like to know what can be had from the stock turbos. Keeping the turbos small keeps the lag time down. I have larger turbos on my S4, and solid boost used to come in at 1800-2000 range. With the larger turbos and the small displacement of the motor, I see full boost in the 2900-3100 range now. I also have some one off exhaust downpipes to help with the spooling, to make it come in more quickly.

However, the top end pull is very, very, very strong with my large turbos...

Beefcake, how does your car pull at high speed. As in 80-140 or something of the sort.

I also note you are in Cincinnati, and run at tristate. I would like to meet you, and see your car. I have a few fast ones too, maybe we could have some fun.

Mike

 

[beefcake]

I would like to know what can be had from the stock turbos. Keeping the turbos small keeps the lag time down. I have larger turbos on my S4, and solid boost used to come in at 1800-2000 range. With the larger turbos and the small displacement of the motor, I see full boost in the 2900-3100 range now. I also have some one off exhaust downpipes to help with the spooling, to make it come in more quickly.

However, the top end pull is very, very, very strong with my large turbos...

Beefcake, how does your car pull at high speed. As in 80-140 or something of the sort.

I also note you are in Cincinnati, and run at tristate. I would like to meet you, and see your car. I have a few fast ones too, maybe we could have some fun.

Mike

be at edgewater friday if the weather holds out, if not i'll prob hit tristate sunday for brackets and some decent air

 

[yamahaSHO]

so both turbos would have to produce 30 lbs in order to make 30 lbs at the manifold?

With 30 PSI in the intake track (where both banks share the same intake plenum), the impellers will both be feeling the same 30 PSI pushing back against them. PSI has no real relation to CFM especially when comparing differen turbos/engines.

 

[SHODWN]

i still think with the big 20's, we need some cd / slotteds to look good

IM lost? what is a cd/ slotteds?

 

[StreamlineGT]

I believe that is cross drilled/slotted

 

[beefcake]

IM lost? what is a cd/ slotteds?

cross drilled / slotted rotors

 

[IM Buddy8]

IM lost? what is a cd/ slotteds?

Cross drilled and slotted?


About the wastegate actuator most of these cars will purchase one from agp.
Evolution VIII / IX
Evolution X
MazdaSpeed 3
Genesis Coupe
SRT-4 Caliber
SRT-4 Neon
WRX / STi

http://www.agpturbo.com/home.php

It lets you hold more boost until redline instead of dropping off so quick. Also decreases boost spikes. But I could see these being hurtful to the new SHO because of such small turbos and quick spooling.. It will be alot of part throttle boost.. which is bad. And an aftermarket wastegate actuator would probably cause alot of that on the new SHO..

 

[PonySHO]

Cross drilled and slotted?


The rotors have holes drilled in them or are slotted to allow gas build up to escape from between the pad and the rotor. Otherwise, you get a kind of hydroplane affect under continuous heavy braking.

 

[typhoon5000]

The rotors have holes drilled in them or are slotted to allow gas build up to escape from between the pad and the rotor. Otherwise, you get a kind of hydroplane affect under continuous heavy braking.

That's a common misonception, but is incorrect. Pads haven't "gassed" since the 70's. The main real reason to use cross-drilled or slotted rotors these days, besides curb appeal, is to reduce the rotating mass of the rotor and unprung mass, but you lose swept area, so braking perofrmance can actually decrease. Cross-drilled can actually help cool the rotor too. Slotted have also been known to work like a razor and keep the face of the pad fresh for each time you break.

 

[PonySHO]

That's a common misonception, but is incorrect. Pads haven't "gassed" since the 70's. The main real reason to use cross-drilled or slotted rotors these days, besides curb appeal, is to reduce the rotating mass of the rotor and unprung mass, but you lose swept area, so braking perofrmance can actually decrease. Cross-drilled can actually help cool the rotor too. Slotted have also been known to work like a razor and keep the face of the pad fresh for each time you break.

I guess what I've read a few years ago was old news. Another thing I read was that the cross drilled rotors are prone to heat cracks emanating from the holes, but I reckon good ventilation would resolve that issue.

 

[Bob Gervais]

I guess what I've read a few years ago was old news. Another thing I read was that the cross drilled rotors are prone to heat cracks emanating from the holes, but I reckon good ventilation would resolve that issue.

I've seen more than enough cross drilled and slotted rotors crack, and a couple grenade, to know that I wouldn't run them on anything. Especially something I was planning on taking on a track.

Now, Kirk's race car is another story alltogether. He's never had any problem with those rotors, but then again we're talking in the range of $600 front rotors.

 

[PonySHO]

I've seen more than enough cross drilled and slotted rotors crack, and a couple grenade, to know that I wouldn't run them on anything. Especially something I was planning on taking on a track.

Now, Kirk's race car is another story alltogether. He's never had any problem with those rotors, but then again we're talking in the range of $600 front rotors.

I am by no means an expert, but I would imagine good ventilation, ie NACA ducts is imperative. Cross drilled rotors would probably be OK as long as you don't let them heat up. I still went with slotted rotors though.

 

[Bob Gervais]

I would agree, proper cooling is necessary, especially with a porky car like the 2010.

With the issue of drilled and slotted rotors, it comes down to stress risers. In any hunk of metal, drilling holes and milling slots will create stress risers. The sharper the edge, the more of a stress riser is created. For example, the cheapo Ebay drilled and slotted rotors are obviously garbage. Powerslot and other major companies do a good job slotting, because they use a ball mill to create a radiused slot, which creates way less of a stress riser than a squared off slot. Drilling, IMO, is asking for trouble. There are manufacturers that make "drilled" rotors, that have the holes cast in them from the beginning, and those are going to be the strongest.

Of course, cryogenic treatment, heat treatment, and proper bedding of pads all helps out too.

IIRC Powerslot used to warn people not to use their rotors in track events.

 

[typhoon5000]

Powerslot and other major companies do a good job slotting, because they use a ball mill to create a radiused slot, which creates way less of a stress riser than a squared off slot.

IIRC Powerslot used to warn people not to use their rotors in track events.

I put Powerslot rotors on the front of my Crown Vic about a year and a half ago, right before I found out about the whole deal with stress risers and what-not. Let me tell you, I def regret getting them. I think I've been lucky so far with them not cracking because the problem with Powerslot's slots are they cut the slot all of the way off of the edge of the rotor, as can be seen below:

Because they go all of the way off of the outside, the sharp edge caused from the cut there can lead to a stress riser. I have not used these rotors on the track, but have used them pretty ******* the street. They are now giving me a pulse in the pedal and wheel and I cannot cut them because they are slotted, so I'm faced with just having to buy new rotors, but this time, I'll get solid ones for sure.