Rod Bearings

[tracy_s_1993_atx]

So I finally got around to changing the rod bearings on my '93 ATX. For 150k miles the bearings looked pretty good. I have used synthetic oil since 30k and no sludge in the pan.

So here is the engine with the pan, oil tray and the main bearing stabilizer removed.

Here is one of the bearings with the rod cap and the new bearings ready to install.

Here is the worst upper bearing

And the lower bearing on the same piston.

It was actually easier than I thought. I still have not cranked the engine, but will in a few days. Taking my time.


Michael

 

[kevinspann]

Unplug the DIS, crank it over till the oil light goes out, maybe a little more to make you feel better, then fire it up.

 

[jayro]

Unplug the DIS, crank it over till the oil light goes out, maybe a little more to make you feel better, then fire it up.

This. And when I did mine I was told to only crank it for about 10 second. Then stop for a couple second,,,,then crank for another ten. Not sure if it really matters, just the procedure I followed.

 

[jon93]

Did you use feeler gauges?

 

[jayro]

Did you use feeler gauges?

Huh? Do you mean Plastiguage to check the clearances?

 

[JRA2000TL]

I didn't use plastiguage; but mine weren't knocking and my bearings weren't in a state where they were so awful that they were going to anytime soon. Put probably 6-8k miles on my 95 with new bearings and about 3k on my 89 with new bearings. It's extra insurance if you choose to use it.

 

[tracy_s_1993_atx]

I also did not use plastiguage when replacing rod bearings. I did not have any knocking or other strange noises. I figured that it was time to change the bearings and to fix the oil pan leak at the same time.

The crank looked and felt perfect. I had no reason to suspect that the replacement bearings would not be within spec.

Michael