Reverse lights , turn signals , window motors , climate control unit not workinh

[alexalba81]

I have a 1993 ford taurus sho 3.2 and all the parts mentioned above dont currently work , wipers , and brake lights do work .

Checked fuses and good . What else could it be ?

 

[SHOrod]

Looking over the wiring diagram, Fuse 5 (15A) in the Instrument Panel Fuse Panel is common to the climate control, reverse lights, and turn signals. Fuse 5 is hot in Run only, so the fact that the brake lights work (which work even with the key off) doesn't surprise me. The power windows are fed by circuit breaker 14 (20A) and are pretty much by themselves from that perspective, so I'd focus on Fuse 5 to start with. If you confirm the fuse is good from a continuity or visual inspection, next confirm whether or not it is getting power to it and through it. That's most easily done using an old school test light if you have one as that will also confirm that the circuit is able to provide at least some current.

Start with checking for power to and through Fuse 5 and report back what you find.

-Rod

 

[BaySHO Performance]

Download this file which contains pages from the '94 EVTM. Close enough to a '93. Click on the blank box by 'Name' to select all the files then click the download button:

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

 

[alexalba81]

Looking over the wiring diagram, Fuse 5 (15A) in the Instrument Panel Fuse Panel is common to the climate control, reverse lights, and turn signals. Fuse 5 is hot in Run only, so the fact that the brake lights work (which work even with the key off) doesn't surprise me. The power windows are fed by circuit breaker 14 (20A) and are pretty much by themselves from that perspective, so I'd focus on Fuse 5 to start with. If you confirm the fuse is good from a continuity or visual inspection, next confirm whether or not it is getting power to it and through it. That's most easily done using an old school test light if you have one as that will also confirm that the circuit is able to provide at least some current.

Start with checking for power to and through Fuse 5 and report back what you find.

-Rod

Will do thank you

 

[alexalba81]

Download this file which contains pages from the '94 EVTM. Close enough to a '93. Click on the blank box by 'Name' to select all the files then click the download button:

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

Thank you will check and report

 

[Johnny_Smash]

Having a somewhat similar issue on my 93 ATX. However it seems a bit more severe - No interior lights/radio/ac control, no headlights or tail lights, and a crank no start condition, fuel pump is not priming. All happened at the same time. Mainly asking here from some similar symptoms, but anyone have some insight on to what might've happened?

PS - Pretty significant clicking sound when key is in OFF position, dash warning lights glow somewhat dimly during said click, noise seems to be coming from around the CCRM. Happened right after filling up for fuel (gotta love tow straps).

 

[alexalba81]

Having a somewhat similar issue on my 93 ATX. However it seems a bit more severe - No interior lights/radio/ac control, no headlights or tail lights, and a crank no start condition, fuel pump is not priming. All happened at the same time. Mainly asking here from some similar symptoms, but anyone have some insight on to what might've happened?

PS - Pretty significant clicking sound when key is in OFF position, dash warning lights glow somewhat dimly during said click, noise seems to be coming from around the CCRM. Happened right after filling up for fuel (gotta love tow straps).

To me sounds like a ground , but not to sure could you possibly give a bit more insight?

 

[SHOrod]

"...dash warning lights glow somewhat dimly during said click" does sound quite consistent with a ground issue. The dim glow can be caused by those lights finding an alternate higher impedance path to ground through a device rather than via the intended direct ground.

-Rod

 

[Johnny_Smash]

To me sounds like a ground , but not to sure could you possibly give a bit more insight?

I'll take a look at the grounds this weekend, if anyone happens to know, is there anywhere I could find a diagram of ground locations?

Symptoms are really quite strange - If left to sit for a while it will begin to start off vapors in the line but dies out shortly thereafter. With the key removed, that "clicking" is present with the dash lights dimly lighting. With the key in IG2 the clicking goes away, but no dash lights come on. I have the battery disconnected to not drain it, which in my mind would line up with a grounding issue.

Only notable things prior was basic maintenance (oil/filters), drove fine afterwards for about an hour, as soon as I shut it off to pump fuel is when the problems appeared.

 

[SHOrod]

You might want to try pulling fuses one at a time until the clicking stops, then see if the dash lights stop glowing too. Checking a particular circuit for power and ground locations will be quite a bit easier than trying to locate all the grounds in the engine bay, etc.

-Rod

 

[BaySHO Performance]

I'll take a look at the grounds this weekend, if anyone happens to know, is there anywhere I could find a diagram of ground locations?

Symptoms are really quite strange - If left to sit for a while it will begin to start off vapors in the line but dies out shortly thereafter. With the key removed, that "clicking" is present with the dash lights dimly lighting. With the key in IG2 the clicking goes away, but no dash lights come on. I have the battery disconnected to not drain it, which in my mind would line up with a grounding issue.

Only notable things prior was basic maintenance (oil/filters), drove fine afterwards for about an hour, as soon as I shut it off to pump fuel is when the problems appeared.

Download the Dropbox file for a '94 I shared earlier in this thread and look at the component location pics including grounds.

You have also mentioned that the fuel pump is not priming. Check the codes to see if you have a 211 PIP failure which would indicate a bad CPS.

If that's OK, Open up the trunk and locate the cutoff switch with a red button on the drivers side. Make sure that the button is pushed down. Unbolt the switch and attach a voltmeter to one of the wires and ground. Turn the ignition on to see if you get voltage at the switch. If you do: bad pump or wiring after the switch. If you don't: bad CCRM. Located under the information plate at the front of the engine bay.

 

[Johnny_Smash]

So I'll share an update here for posterity.

With it being the dead of winter I haven't had as much time to really dig into this project as much as I would've liked, so I ended up garaging it for the past couple weeks.

Yesterday I decided to throw the battery back in it just to see what was happening/if anything had changed (I have not touched it since this issue began). Long and behold, the issues seemed to have gone away (Interior electronics, windows, headlights/tail lights, fuel pump priming).

It sounds like this thing has some intermittent electrical gremlins. Anyone seen something like this before?

 

[ScotSHO]

Let's see the battery terminals - any corrosion and are the terminals the temporary pinch-the-wire style?