Rear brake issue on new 89

[revhardSHO]

First, on the way back from picking up the car, the left rear brake started sticking for no appearent reason. We pull over and *try* to figure out whats going on back there. The has basically all new pads and rotors all the way around. The rim was really HOT (you couldnt touch) and the caliper was sticking for some reason. I opened the bleader valve and just a little fluid came out (few drops). We tried to bleed it for quite a while, but to no avail. No brake fluid was comming out. As a result, we just left the bleader open so it wouldnt stick (probalby not a good idea, but i havent had a problem yet, and brake fluid level is still norm.). SSolved the problem for the time being. Today, the same problem cropped up on the right rear side...fixed it using the same method as above. Obviously its not safe to drive, but braking seems to be okay. It seemed to happen after hard braking to a stop. What could be causing this on both wheels? Pinched line???? Thanks for any advice!


Silas

 

[projectSHO89]

Proportioning valve or it needs new rear rubber brake lines.

Steve

 

[revhardSHO]

Thanks steve,

do you know of anywhere else (other than the dealers $115) where i can get a proportioning valve?

thanks

 

[shojuan]

smithsil:
Thanks steve,

do you know of anywhere else (other than the dealers $115) where i can get a proportioning valve?

thanks

Have you tried autozone or rockauto? They both should have it.

 

[HopefulSHO]

smithsil:
It seemed to happen after hard braking to a stop.

I had the exact same thing happen to me after changing the rear pads & rotors. It turned out to be the flexable brake line on that side (or possibly in your case, both sides) of the car.
It would drag lightly most of the time, but if you had to stop the car anything faster than a normal stop, that side would stick like ****.
Let it sit for a bit and it would let go.
Seems like it would collapse once the pressure is released and holds the fluid in the rear caliper.

 

[revhardSHO]

Yes ive tried a-zone and others... they tell me its a dealer part...

Yes, both lines will be replaced, well see what that does.

silas

 

[drivinhard]

I got one at autozone not too long ago, so I know they carry them.

If you are replacing a bunch of them, maybe see about getting a set of stainless steel lines to firm up the pedal. JEGS used to carry a set for the SHO for $55 or so for all 4 corners, dunno if they still do.

 

[revhardSHO]

I got one at autozone not too long ago, so I know they carry them.

do you mean the proportioning valve or the brake lines?

They dont have a listing for the valve...but the lines i can get

 

[drivinhard]

The lines. I doubt it's your valve. Change the lines first, they are the cheapest thing. If you still have problems, then you can change the valve. This is a pretty common problem, and it's almost always the lines.

 

[shojuan]

drivinhard:
I got one at autozone not too long ago, so I know they carry them.

If you are replacing a bunch of them, maybe see about getting a set of stainless steel lines to firm up the pedal. JEGS used to carry a set for the SHO for $55 or so for all 4 corners, dunno if they still do.

Jegs:
Earl's Hyperfirm Brake Hose Kits
361-28B460 94-95 Taurus SHO $86.99

I'm just going to make my own. If I buy 20' of Earl's Speedflex hose I'll have enough to make a heck of a lot of brake lines. Just add SpeedSeal ends! thumb

 

[Bizzy]

I was lucky and found a shotimes list memeber that sold me mine for $60. I was looking one day at Jegs and it was around $55 and a week later it was up near $90.

Supply and demand or something was going on there

IMHO the SS lines and the 96+ upgrade made a phenomenal difference that I can't see why anyone wouldn't do the upgrade. Then throw some bias plugs in the back and watch out.