Ran fine yesterday, today won't start, fuel pump never stops running

[TankII]

The slot is an oval, with the bracket dropping down behind the screw. Not a slot, unfortunately.

 

[luigisho]

rats. worst scenario is see if Dan has a cheap replacement and cut the plastic. I know he sells pcms. I bet most don't include the plastic bracket???

 

[TankII]

Looks like you were right about the slot! Didn't see that the other day. Gonna try and get it out. Thanks!

 

[luigisho]

Also maybe get a tiny crescent wrench with a few tiny partial turns to loosen it?? Maybe.

Those metal prongs will provide some resistance to sliding the fastener through the slot opening. Not able to get a 6pt deep 1/4" drive socket on there for a twist or 2? Maybe needle nose pliers with a strong grip? Spitballing

 

[FastCAD]

Also maybe get a tiny crescent wrench with a few tiny partial turns to loosen it?? Maybe.

Those metal prongs will provide some resistance to sliding the fastener through the slot opening. Not able to get a 6pt deep 1/4" drive socket on there for a twist or 2? Maybe needle nose pliers with a strong grip? Spitballing

The screw is in a closed loop and needs to be removed but you are on the right track. A 1/4" socket will fit the head of the screw that is if it is the stock screw. The vise grip seems like your best bet. Use the grip vertically and twist there is plenty of height space and you have to replace that screw anyway.

 

[TankII]

I got the bracket off, andremoved the nuts from the firewall.

The verdamant ECU will not come out!

Argh!

I need the codes to ensure I get the right part.

 

[FastCAD]

I got the bracket off, andremoved the nuts from the firewall.

The verdamant ECU will not come out!

Argh!

I need the codes to ensure I get the right part.

What "nuts" from the firewall are u referring too? There is only one "bolt" in the middle of the black plastic cap that covers the ECU connector. Loosen that long bolt completely and pull the black cover aside this is the connector. The ECU pulls out from the glove box side. Try not to disturb the ground wires that attach to the firewall with bolts.

 

[luigisho]

What Fastcad said. The wiring harness plug, engine side of the firewall, has an integrated bolt in the middle that goes through the firewall hole and into a threaded hole in the ECU. That has to be unscrewed completely for the ecu to detach.
There have been instances where the threaded female hole in the ecu has broken loose inside the ecu housing and that bolt will turn and turn as the female end is now free spinning. If you haven't unscrewed that bolt completely, don't yank like a barbarian on the ecu.

 

[TankII]

The metal bracket nuts on the firewall are off.
The bolt on the harness spins with my fingers - and won't tighten. I think the nut inside the ECU has broken loose. Suggestions, before I start yanking like a barbarian?

 

[luigisho]

I forget what I read as far as remedy. I haven't had to deal with that personally. Maybe RubyDist has dealt with it or remembers. There are posts archived with this condition-- not a long time ago as I try and remember.

 

[luigisho]

https://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/crank-no-start.140222/#post-1520029

Check out post #5 by rubydist

 

[FastCAD]

The metal bracket nuts on the firewall are off.
The bolt on the harness spins with my fingers - and won't tighten. I think the nut inside the ECU has broken loose. Suggestions, before I start yanking like a barbarian?

Good Barbarians should not jump to conclusions. lol

I am assuming that you are trying to install the new ECU.
If you haven't already... disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the new unit from inside the dash, shake it, if there is no rattle then you are still good to go. (If not you carefully open the ECU casing and repair the brass threaded sleeve.
Install the two nuts to the metal plate at the firewall and tighten.
Slide in the new unit as far as you can go. Make sure that the unit is right side up. Check that the connector on the new unit is orientated to the connector at the firewall.
Mount the plastic clip and screw snug.

The long bolt has a set length. Meaning; that you have to CAREFULLY press on the black connector at the firewall to engage the pins (a little die electric grease may help here) without pushing the unit back into the dash. Thread the bolt by hand until you feel resistance. NOTE: this is a similar installation to the CCRM connector.
Snug up the bolt (many revs.) DO NOT OVER TORQUE.
Secure the screw at the back of the unit.

If you are having difficulty removing the old unit let me know and I can help with that.

Start up:
Turn off the a/c. Let the SHO idle for a few minutes so the ECU can re-learn base idle. If you get a CEL this is good , the new unit is working.
Take the SHO out for a 10 mile test. (turn right, turn left, step on the brake, idle at the light, run the SHO with load etc.) The SHO will run erratically for a bit but will smooth out by mile 10 and you will know it.
Bring the SHO home let it idle a couple of minutes. Shut it off and get those codes.

All of your efforts show that you are the type who wants to do the service themselves. This is good.
In time you will get the hang of the SHO or, you will go insane, or bleed to death whichever comes first.

Good Luck

 

[TankII]

The hole is big enough for the connector, not the computer.

Ideas?

 

[TankII]

I think I need to cut the head of the bolt off at this point.

 

[luigisho]

I can't see the wiring connector plug from that last pic. Send rubydist a private message. He might have a good grasp of that photo. I wish I had my car nearby to look at mine as comparison.

 

[zoomlater]

Are you trying to find out what the code on your ECU is? In the photo you attached in post 23, it's an LOS. If you don't have the PCM yet, I would keep trying to get it off without cutting the bolt
Is your car a 91? Look at the shosource page below. The code could also be on the passenger door jam. If you read the link below, you should be able to use an X2J as well

https://shosource.com/products/ols/products/pcm-ecu-computer-used-89-95/v/PCM-ECU-CMP-SD-L0S

 

[FastCAD]

The hole is big enough for the connector, not the computer.

Ideas?

 

[FastCAD]

The hole is big enough for the connector, not the computer.

Ideas?

The connector is the only thing that comes through the firewall.
That pic is worthless. Where is the computer harness with the matching connector?
p.s. If you cut that bolt don't expect to find another one.

 

[AREA 91]

I think I need to cut the head of the bolt off at this point.

Yes, cut the head off the bolt.
Btdt.

 

[FastCAD]

I think I need to cut the head of the bolt off at this point.

O.k u are still trying to remove the connector bolt??

Take a large sloted screwdriver and place it behind the mid-point behind the connector at the firewall. Apply leverage towards the firewall allowing pressure from behind the connector against the back of the head on the bolt. At the same time slowly try to unscrew the bolt with a socket wrench.

If the head of the bolt has enough room behind it then use the screwdriver there to apply outward pressure while working to unscrew the bolt.

This technique is to apply outward pressure on the brass threaded sleeve (with the bolt in it) forcing it come forward into the slot inside which it came loose (or broken) from. Keep constant and heavy pressure against the head of the bolt to keep the anchor from spinning.

If it's of any consolation I have used this technique to remove a bolt from a loose sleeve in another SHO some time ago.

Good Luck