please help!!!!!!

[countryboy86]

hey yall I'm new to the SHO, just picked up a 94 atx 3.2L. I was told from the guy I got it from it has the 80mm MAF some head work a shift kit. After having the car on the road for a couple days I'm haviung major issues. When I first test drove the car it shifted into all gears fine, when I brought it hom it had 1st and 2nd. Next day it shifted thru all the gears fine again. Now today it wont shift out of first unless I manually shift to 2nd and wont shift any higher. The CEL reads 113(IAT is/was high or open) and 327(EGR feedback signal is/was low EVR or PFE) thats key on engine not running. I did it like 4 times, and key on engine on, even after the 111 code all i could get was 998. After looking through it has been kinda cold here so I tried wrapping the trans cooler since I had read bout that and then drove the car about 45 miles, no luck. This is my only vehicle and i can not fig this out. like i said SHOs and fords in general are all new to me. All ive owned before are GMs and 2 dodges. Thanks yall

 

[countryboy86]

O I forgot any ideas how to fix the codes would be greatly appreciated also

 

[Racer X]

If is has a MAF, chances are it has a chip, too.

If there's a chip, find a stock MAF, swap it in, and remove the chip. See if there's any change in performance.

 

[shotime1994]

Ok first thing I would do is change the dpfe sensor. The dpfe sensor sits on the back of the intake manifold. There is a updated one you can buy at your local ford dealership it comes with a new pigtail so you an spice it in. Then I would put the stock air box in it with the stock 55mm maf sensor and the iat sensor sits in the air box it reads the air temp. Since its cold outside and you have a 80 mm maf you are pulling in two much air I just had this problem and put my stock air box in and all is well now. Also let the car warm up a little before you drive it so the trans fluid gets warm.

 

[LJRuddy]

If is has a MAF, chances are it has a chip, too.

If there's a chip, find a stock MAF, swap it in, and remove the chip. See if there's any change in performance.

If you can't find a stock MAF, you can keep the 80mm MAF installed and just remove the chip for now. Just don't be too ******* the throttle.

 

[countryboy86]

whats a dpfe sensor? and how would i check to find out if theres a chip and/or to remove it? I just read a post where a guy disconnected his batt to reset the computer and it shifted fine afterwards but I stopped and filled up with gas and when I started the car back up and drove back to the house it wouldnt shift past 2nd again.

 

[rbruso]

It might seem like a silly question, but is the transmission fluid level good? Low fluid level will prevent shifting.
Also, does the fluid look good, or is it brown and burnt smelling?

The dpfe sensor is part of the EGR setup. Look at the driver's side of the intake, near the firewall. The big wart on the intake is the EGR valve. It should have a pipe going down to the exhaust and a vaccum line going to the pressure sensor.

The chip would be attached to the service port of your computer. Empty your glove box, pull it all the way open (there are tabs on either side to keep it from opening too far. Just gently pry them in and let the box swing all the way down.) In the murky depths behind the glove box you should see a rectangular metal box sticking out from the firewall. The service port should be staring you right in the face, and if there is a chip it'll be piggybacked on the computer, attached to this service port.

 

[Rubix]

Hello and welcome to the forum fellow Virginian, I'd be happy to help you out with anything you might be wondering about your SHO - I'm in Richmond.
The first thing I would do is clean out the EGR system to see if that eliminates the codes relating to the EGR. This probably will not, however, help out your transmission shifting problems.

 

[countryboy86]

I'll def have to go out and check out to see if theres a chip. I have seen the egr just wasnt sure exactly what a dpfe sensor was. Thanks.

Last night i undid the computer ground (round plug on fender) and also the neg batt terminal and left them off all night. took the car out today and she shifted fine at first.... but then was stuck in 3rd gear, wouldnt downshift when stopping. but if i manually drop it to 1st then shift to 2nd(which shell chirp the tires now if im over 1/2 throttle) then to drive its all fine, just gotta shift through 1st and 2nd manually each time.

And rubix, cool im just east of fredericksburg, bout 1.5 hrs from richmond doin about the speed limit.

O and yes trans fluid is full and red, first thing i check because I did notice it leaking a lil and could smell it on the exhaust, soon as I have the money I will be replacing the pan gasket and all that fun stuff. But Rubix said somethin bout cleaning the egr... how exactly would you clean it, never heard of it bein cleaned before.

thanks for all the help guys

 

[rbruso]

Cleaning the EGR passage is a bit of a pain. I had to do it once

• Take the intake off, being careful with the overly fragile EGR tube.
• Disassemble the intake so you can get to everything.
• Pull the threaded plugs out of the intake wherever the EGR passage takes a 90 degree turn.
• Using carb cleaner, oven cleaner, a pick, coat hangers, a bunch of pipe cleaners, and about 3.5oz of blood (preferrably from your knuckles, but accidental pokes to the palm work well, too) make sure the passage from the EGR into the intake is totally clean of the blackish/brownish/grayish crud that has built up there over the years.
• Installation is the reverse of removal, though the blood probably won't want to go back on its own.

I've only cleaned one passage (my former '89 was a California car, so it had EGR), and it was VERY clogged. Some of the ATX guys might have some better pointers, as I'm sure a few of them try to keep on top of the cleaning so it's not so bad.

 

[countryboy86]

by intake you mean just the intake not the manifold? if so then dont seem to hard, have to do this tom if it stops raining. thanks for the info man

 

[rbruso]

by intake you mean just the intake not the manifold? if so then dont seem to hard, have to do this tom if it stops raining. thanks for the info man

The EGR is on the rear surge tank of the intake manifold, plumbed in behind the throttle body. This is the cleanest picture of the area I could come up with during a quick search (not my intake, as it's way too clean):


THERE----------------------------------------^

This intake is a non-EGR intake, but you can see the raised blank oval area cast into the intake at the bottom of this picture. On EGR intakes, this will have a (probably rusty looking) EGR valve bolted on. If you look at the underside of the casting on your car (once the intake is off) you'll be able to trace the EGR passage. At each point the passage makes a 90 degree turn there will be a plug threaded in. At the factory, they used long, straight drills, so there are a couple of turns. They merely screwed plugs in to seal the passages.

 

[stangracr67]

I would check for vacuum leaks. make sure the vacuum lines are still plugged into your DPFE. with the engine running just spray a little starting fluid around the intake vacuum lines. rpms will increase if you have a leak. not sure but I was told vacuum leak could affect shifting as well.