Could anyone please help diagnose.

[DustyCrevice]

Last week I had made this post, I had just begun to experience intermittent issues: https://shoforum.com/threads/could-someone-please-help-me-confirm-this-sound.147821/#post-1615151 but there has been a development. This morning on the way back from a brief drive and the only one I've really been on in the past week, my car starting pouring pretty thick white exhaust that was lingering and obviously trailing behind me, by the time I reached my destination, upon getting out of my car it almost smelled like it was on fire. This video is from shortly after turning it off: Exhaust and this video was from about five minutes after from my motor: Motor and this is a picture of my oil.

Am I ******? I just replaced my entire suspension and put four brand new tires on it.

 

[Texas Marauder]

Is the check engine light on? Do you feel a misfire? Check for pending or current misfire code. Internet diagnosis, going to guess a piston failure(more likely) or cylinder head gasket(less likely).

 

[Zpak]

Or water pump left the chat.

That's terrible man

 

[kryptto]

hey @DustyCrevice so for everyone to help, post all the stats, miles, last oil change, original owner, water pump changed, mods, history of anything you could and definitely any codes coming from the computer. to truly help, videos and pictures assist, but arent too great when someone like this is happening.

For a 2012–2019 Ford Taurus SHO, you can access what’s known as Engineering Test Mode. This is a hidden diagnostic menu built directly into your instrument cluster. It won't require any tools and works even if the car isn't driveable, as long as your battery has enough power to light up the dash.

Since your SHO likely has a Push-Button Start, the process is a little different than the "key trick."

---

How to Access "Engineering Test Mode"​

1. Preparation: Make sure the ignition is completely OFF.
2. The Hold: Press and hold the OK button on the left side of your steering wheel.
3. The Power: While continuing to hold the OK button, press the Start button once (do NOT press the brake pedal; you want the dash to turn on, but the engine to stay off).
4. The Wait: Keep holding the OK button for about 5–10 seconds.
5. Success: The left-hand screen on your dash will suddenly change and say "ETM" or "Engineering Test Mode." You can now let go of the button.

Finding the Codes​

Once you are in the menu, use the Up/Down arrows on your steering wheel to scroll through the data.

• You will see things like "Gauge Sweep," "ROM Level," and "Battery Voltage."
  
  
  
• Keep scrolling until you see "DTC" (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).
• If it says "DTC: NONE," the car isn't currently storing a code in that specific module.
  
  
  
• If there is a code, it will look like a sequence of letters and numbers (e.g., P0302 or C1234).

Note: This menu is great for a quick look, but it primarily shows "Cluster" and "Body" codes. If your Check Engine light is on but the ETM says "None," it means the specific engine fault is only readable via the OBD-II port.

---

If that doesn't work (or if ETM says "None"):​

If the car is truly stuck in your driveway and the hidden menu isn't giving you the answer, you have two "newbie-friendly" options:

1. The "Loner" Tool: Most AutoZone or O'Reilly stores will actually loan you a code reader for free. You pay a deposit, take it home, plug it in, get your code, and bring it back for a full refund.
2. Amazon Bluetooth Dongle: For about $15–$20, you can buy a tiny "ELM327" Bluetooth adapter. You plug it into the port under your steering wheel, and it sends the codes directly to a free app on your phone (like Car Scanner or Torque). It’s the easiest way to get professional-level info without being a "car person."

 

[DustyCrevice]

Is the check engine light on? Do you feel a misfire? Check for pending or current misfire code. Internet diagnosis, going to guess a piston failure(more likely) or cylinder head gasket(less likely).

No CEL, I've had a few recent starts where the motor sputters out and I have to restart and give it a bunch of gas.

 

[DustyCrevice]

hey @DustyCrevice so for everyone to help, post all the stats, miles, last oil change, original owner, water pump changed, mods, history of anything you could and definitely any codes coming from the computer. to truly help, videos and pictures assist, but arent too great when someone like this is happening.

For a 2012–2019 Ford Taurus SHO, you can access what’s known as Engineering Test Mode. This is a hidden diagnostic menu built directly into your instrument cluster. It won't require any tools and works even if the car isn't driveable, as long as your battery has enough power to light up the dash.

Since your SHO likely has a Push-Button Start, the process is a little different than the "key trick."

---

How to Access "Engineering Test Mode"​

1. Preparation: Make sure the ignition is completely OFF.
2. The Hold: Press and hold the OK button on the left side of your steering wheel.
3. The Power: While continuing to hold the OK button, press the Start button once (do NOT press the brake pedal; you want the dash to turn on, but the engine to stay off).
4. The Wait: Keep holding the OK button for about 5–10 seconds.
5. Success: The left-hand screen on your dash will suddenly change and say "ETM" or "Engineering Test Mode." You can now let go of the button.

Finding the Codes​

Once you are in the menu, use the Up/Down arrows on your steering wheel to scroll through the data.

• You will see things like "Gauge Sweep," "ROM Level," and "Battery Voltage."
  
  
  
• Keep scrolling until you see "DTC" (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).
• If it says "DTC: NONE," the car isn't currently storing a code in that specific module.
  
  
  
• If there is a code, it will look like a sequence of letters and numbers (e.g., P0302 or C1234).

---

If that doesn't work (or if ETM says "None"):​

If the car is truly stuck in your driveway and the hidden menu isn't giving you the answer, you have two "newbie-friendly" options:

1. The "Loner" Tool: Most AutoZone or O'Reilly stores will actually loan you a code reader for free. You pay a deposit, take it home, plug it in, get your code, and bring it back for a full refund.
2. Amazon Bluetooth Dongle: For about $15–$20, you can buy a tiny "ELM327" Bluetooth adapter. You plug it into the port under your steering wheel, and it sends the codes directly to a free app on your phone (like Car Scanner or Torque). It’s the easiest way to get professional-level info without being a "car person."

Thanks for this, I must have missed it earlier, I will compile all this soon and get back.

 

[Texas Marauder]

Nobody here can truly diagnose your problem. We can only guess what the problem may be. You have a serious problem. If you can't diagnose it yourself, you'll have to pay someone who can. Good luck.

 

[Tbird6]

A guess? But every DI car that I have seen pour white smoke out the tailpipe was caused by an injector problem. Surprised you don't have any miss fire codes?

As you noticed the car is being flooded with gas and it's just pouring into the engine. I have a Jaguar that did this and after fixing the DI injectors that car started throwing a cat efficiency code which lead eventually to a cat replacement.

So try not to drive the car like that and get it fixed ASAP to avoid cat damage. Hopefully you can post back with what you find is the problem.
.
.
.

 

[DustyCrevice]

hey @DustyCrevice so for everyone to help, post all the stats, miles, last oil change, original owner, water pump changed, mods, history of anything you could and definitely any codes coming from the computer. to truly help, videos and pictures assist, but arent too great when someone like this is happening.

For a 2012–2019 Ford Taurus SHO, you can access what’s known as Engineering Test Mode. This is a hidden diagnostic menu built directly into your instrument cluster. It won't require any tools and works even if the car isn't driveable, as long as your battery has enough power to light up the dash.

Since your SHO likely has a Push-Button Start, the process is a little different than the "key trick."

---

How to Access "Engineering Test Mode"​

1. Preparation: Make sure the ignition is completely OFF.
2. The Hold: Press and hold the OK button on the left side of your steering wheel.
3. The Power: While continuing to hold the OK button, press the Start button once (do NOT press the brake pedal; you want the dash to turn on, but the engine to stay off).
4. The Wait: Keep holding the OK button for about 5–10 seconds.
5. Success: The left-hand screen on your dash will suddenly change and say "ETM" or "Engineering Test Mode." You can now let go of the button.

Finding the Codes​

Once you are in the menu, use the Up/Down arrows on your steering wheel to scroll through the data.

• You will see things like "Gauge Sweep," "ROM Level," and "Battery Voltage."
  
  
  
• Keep scrolling until you see "DTC" (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).
• If it says "DTC: NONE," the car isn't currently storing a code in that specific module.
  
  
  
• If there is a code, it will look like a sequence of letters and numbers (e.g., P0302 or C1234).

---

If that doesn't work (or if ETM says "None"):​

If the car is truly stuck in your driveway and the hidden menu isn't giving you the answer, you have two "newbie-friendly" options:

1. The "Loner" Tool: Most AutoZone or O'Reilly stores will actually loan you a code reader for free. You pay a deposit, take it home, plug it in, get your code, and bring it back for a full refund.
2. Amazon Bluetooth Dongle: For about $15–$20, you can buy a tiny "ELM327" Bluetooth adapter. You plug it into the port under your steering wheel, and it sends the codes directly to a free app on your phone (like Car Scanner or Torque). It’s the easiest way to get professional-level info without being a "car person."

I know this is a.... late.... response but here are some codes from ETM.

 

[6500rpm]

What does your cluster show for how many mpg your getting?