Please help - Put car back together and it won't start. Help Needed.

[40BelowSummer]

My car has been getting work done slowly by myself over the last two weeks for a few hours each day after work.

I just finished changing the rod bearings and reinstalling my intake manifold and now the car will not start. It turns over; accessories turn.

• I seem to be getting spark. I took a spark plug boot off and I could see it arch or spark when I turned the car over.
• I changed the DIS
• Intake seems to be grounded fine.
• No oil leaks, proper oil level
• I ran the codes (KOEO) and I got a 542, which I know usually comes up if the car has been stalled or something. Would I get this code from it cranking and not starting? Because it hasnt had a battery in it for a while, so it coudnt have been stored from before today.
• Ive been doing ALOT of electrical work on the interior, so I check all fuses under hood and inside the car and they all looked fine.

So if the spark plug wires seem to be outputting some spark, is it most likely a fuel issue? How do I check the fuel w/o a fuel pressure tester? The fuel pump does prime though.

If, by chance, it was something that went wrong during the rod bearing replacement (hope and doubt this isnt the case) wouldnt it at least start up and knock or seize up? I just want to rule this out so Im not sweating bullets all day.

If I turn the key to crank the car, the tack doesnt go past 150-200 RPMS, which I cant remember if it is normal or not.

Any and all input appreciated, today is my last day off to get this thing running.

Thanks
Rhett

 

[SASHO91]

just for kicks, check the rear ECT sensor....

but before that, try to go WOT while cranking it.... it should turn over then....

has the CPS been changed> if so, was it gapped properly?

 

[twr]

Does the engine sound the same when you crank it over as it did prior to the work or does it sound slower? I would doubt it's a rod bearing problem, sounds like a fuel problem. Double check all of your connections and then check them again. With me, it usually turns out to be some little connector that came loose or wasn't plugged back in.

 

[TYSHO]

How do I check the fuel w/o a fuel pressure tester?

Push the needle in the schrader valve, that'll let you know if fuel is at the rails.



When you replaced the DIS module, did you put the correct contact crap between the manifold and dis module?

 

[40BelowSummer]

Yes I used thermal paste when changing the DIS but the symptoms are the same as before, plus it seems to be getting spark.

I did not change the CPS.

It sounds fine when it turns over, definitely not slower.

The ECT sounds interesting, tell me more about this if you can. I did not mess with the ECT, but I did change the Water temp sender next to the thermostat. Could this be it, because I dont what else it could be.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Yes I used thermal paste when changing the DIS but the symptoms are the same as before, plus it seems to be getting spark.

I did not change the CPS.

It sounds fine when it turns over, definitely not slower.

The ECT sounds interesting, tell me more about this if you can. I did not mess with the ECT, but I did change the Water temp sender next to the thermostat. Could this be it, because I dont what else it could be.

Check for fuel pressure. Does the fuel pump hum for 1.5 seconds when you first turn the key to "on"? Buy a cheapie tire guage at Checker or AZ and see what your pressure is when key is in "on" and "start".

Tom

 

[40BelowSummer]

Tom,

Yeah the fuel pump does seem to prime for approx. 1.5 or so seconds as normal. There is no Checker or AZ around just some podunk Kirkham auto parts store that is closed (damn small communities). Next closest auto parts store is 45 minutes away. Although I do have a basic trie pressure gauge, the one where the pressure pushed the white thing out that tells the psi. Maybe it will at least tell if i have pressure and give me a good idea.

 

[SonicRiot]

An ECT would most likely not be your problem. With the ECT unplugged, the car will still start. It's a temp sensor.

Check:

Fuel: check the fuel at the rail, check prime. You can also fire the injectors manually or use an occiliscope on them while cranking. You'll need a pressure guage to see if the fuel at the rail is an adequate pressure. BTW, if fuel is adequate and you keep cranking, you may flood the engine. Put your foot to the floor, as stated perviously to cut off the fuel supply.

Spark: Just b/c you see an arc does not mean you have adequate spark or it is timed properly. Do an ignition system test on the car as seen on Phoenix Project SHO website to make sure the sensors are all in good working order.

Compression: did you do a timing belt? did the belt jump time? If the valves are not fully closed at the proper time, your engine will not start.

Seeing as the engine cranks ok (150-200 RPM is the starter speed. That's normal), you can pretty much assume your work on the rod bearings is not at fault, simply because if it was, you'd hear horriffic noises during cranking or it wouldn't carnk at all.

Shooting from the hip with a blindfold on? I would start with the PIP or CPS, simply b/c they fail often and cause a cranking, no-start condition.

I'm sure you know most of this, but I know how a big job over a long period of time can mess with your head. Good luck.


P.S. Using a tire gauge on the fuel rail may result in a bad tire guage and a facefull of gasoline.

 

[40BelowSummer]

Chris, How do I fire the injectors manually?

Ignition system test? Are you talk about the engine trouble codes? If so, then I did check them and got a 542.

I did no front engine work, closest thing I did was use the crank bolt to turn the crank during rod bearings replacement.

Up top I changes the battery, changed water temp sender, a coolant line, and removed intake. I also loosened the spark plugs during rod bearing replacement, but i tightened them all back down.

Thank you.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

I'd still bet there's a DIS grounding issue. All 4 screws in? Both bolts in crossover tube? Ground strap connected and the connections clean and tight?

The ECT sensor is meaningless as to the car starting or not. You could take it out, throw it down the street, and the car will still start. I really hate blind guesses by people who have no clue. Sorry, back on topic.

It's possible to see arcing from the plug wires to ground, but have it be insufficient to actually fire the plug and cause combustion.

How does it "sound" when cranking? If it sounds unusual, it's entirely possible you had the timing belt slip, especially if you turned the motor backwards at all while doing the bearings.

 

[wood_e]

Did you plug in your IAB?

 

[40BelowSummer]

Ok, I got the car running. I pressed the gas to the floor while cranking and it showed signs of almost starting. I did it a few more times and it fires up and sounded terrible (idle/exhaust wise), backfired, and smoked like a mother.

But I took it for a drive tonight and the smoke eventually went away and Im just left with a fishy idle and an exhaust leak due to the new (used) high flow Y pipe I installed.

So Im not sure what the problem actually was.

Heres something interesting, earlier today (before I started the thread) I had my 8 year old sister spray starting fluid in the throttle body wghile I cranked it, with no avail. Then when it started (about 5 hours later) it backfired and fire even came out of my pro-m! But it runs ok now, the starting fluid must have puddled. Maybe this was why it smoked and stuff?

Oh well my rod bearing change must have been successfull so thats the important thing.

Thanks for the input.

 

[TYSHO]

Did you happen to clean you intake manifold and head ports?

 

[wood_e]

You better take apart your intake again because of that backfire. I bet one or two of your butterflies is damaged.

 

[SonicRiot]

The injectors can be fired manually with a 9v battery. It will suffice. You must pull them from the rail, however, to avoid gasoline in your face. It's just a little solenoid, so operate it like any other solenoid.


Your engine may have simply been flooded. Or it's an intermitten problem. Keep your fingers crossed and hope for the first.