So I bought a new water pump and a new crank sensor got the water pump on but I cant get the rank sensor on because I cant get the crank bolt off. I tried the starter trick nothing it just stops turning over. I tried an impact that dont even budge it. I brokemy ratchets trying the starter trick. any other suggestions???
PITA Crank Bolt
- Thread starter yamasho93
- Start date
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93rev2sev
SHO Member
If you round off the bolthead, get a bi-metal 7/8" or 1" hole saw. Cut the shoulder off the bolt. Pre-drill a hole in the end of the bolt so all your cutting action is on the shoulder. You should be able to twist it out with your fingers once the shoulder is gone...with any luck...
Start sourcing a replacement crank bolt.
Start sourcing a replacement crank bolt.
RJ-92
Active Member
Starter bump method has always worked for me. With the engine on a stand I had to hit it with 120lbs of air for about 15 minutes, working it back and forth but it finally let go.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
You're saying that the starter doesn't have enough torque to get the bolt off?
How charged is your battery? If the battery isn't fully charged it might not have enough juice... but my god, don't starter motors put out a lot of applied torque?
How charged is your battery? If the battery isn't fully charged it might not have enough juice... but my god, don't starter motors put out a lot of applied torque?
jayro
SHO Member
I had this happen. I hooked my jump starter up to the battery to make sure it had enough juice. I also used a breaker bar sitting about 2 inches above the subframe so it would get a little bit of movement before it hit the subframe. I had someone press on the back of the socket with a short piece of pipe to keep it from popping of while I went and turned the car over. It came off on the second try. This was after trying 2 different impacts, a 2 ft extention on the breaker bar, hitting it with an air chisel and numerous starter bumps with the breaker bar sitting agianst the subframe.
The kinda funny thing was that the only person to blame was me....I had put the bolt back on after my 60K...I wanted to make sure I avoided crank cancer and got a little over enthusiastic. Good luck
Jeremy
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
leaving a gap between the breaker bar and the subframe is a good idea. The window motors use this very same principle. Electric motors don't generate full torque instantly, it takes a few miliseconds. Therefore, there is a gap on either side between the drive cam and the sprocket on the window motors to reduce the needed size.
You should try that, leave a 2-4 inch gap (more and you risk breaking something in a really spectacular way) between the bar and the subframe... and make sure the battery is charged up. Take it to AAP and have them charge it for a few hours if you must.
You should try that, leave a 2-4 inch gap (more and you risk breaking something in a really spectacular way) between the bar and the subframe... and make sure the battery is charged up. Take it to AAP and have them charge it for a few hours if you must.
Troywakeling
New Member
Took mine off with a big ass breaker bar and a chain wrench.
SHO GoDz 89
True Sleeper
Hey looks like I'm not the only one dealing with a stubborn crank bolt.
I've tried everything short of heating the bolt up (couldn't borrow a torch...people are unreliable and stupid. long story).
I've got an IR 231 which is good for 500ft/lbs of Torque, but still it couldn't go.
I'll try the hole saw trick today and get some big washers from shop.
Does anyone know what kind of bolt I could get to replace the stock one? The head on mine is almost rounded off.
Size, thread, grade, etc.
I've tried everything short of heating the bolt up (couldn't borrow a torch...people are unreliable and stupid. long story).
I've got an IR 231 which is good for 500ft/lbs of Torque, but still it couldn't go.
I'll try the hole saw trick today and get some big washers from shop.
Does anyone know what kind of bolt I could get to replace the stock one? The head on mine is almost rounded off.
Size, thread, grade, etc.
1995mtxsho
SHO Member
Put it in 5th gear....
Have someone stand on the brakes...
Use a breaker bar to break it loose...
Only works with an MTX... But DOES work...
Have someone stand on the brakes...
Use a breaker bar to break it loose...
Only works with an MTX... But DOES work...
Eric VerValin
PiMPSKiLLET
X2 if you have enough extentions and a buddy. I have a 5 foot peice of 1 1/2" rigid pipe, hasn't failed me yet.. 
SHO GoDz 89
True Sleeper
So no one knows what a good replacement bolt is?
Grade, length, thread, size? This would be some good info for people who don't want to wait for a crank bolt to be mailed to them when a hardware store might have a suitable replacement.
Grade, length, thread, size? This would be some good info for people who don't want to wait for a crank bolt to be mailed to them when a hardware store might have a suitable replacement.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
I know the info is on here somewhere. I'll try to hunt it down for you...
Edit: According to the SHO Engine book, the bolt is M14x1.5. I don't know the length on it, although I'd be willing to bet that 2" wouldn't be a bad bet. Make sure it's the highest grade you can get your hands on, and make sure you get some good beefy washers.
Edit: According to the SHO Engine book, the bolt is M14x1.5. I don't know the length on it, although I'd be willing to bet that 2" wouldn't be a bad bet. Make sure it's the highest grade you can get your hands on, and make sure you get some good beefy washers.
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ScottyDsntKno
New Member
If you are MTX then gigantic ass breaker bar, 5th gear and someone on the brakes. If not then I don't know what to tell you. With my ATX the starter bolt trick worked on the very first try.
Hey, you said you broke your ratchets. Have you actually used an honest to goodness breaker bar?
It's a JIS metric ****** bolt...definitely not a hardware store item. Maybe a post in Wanted to Buy section will turn up one from a junk engine.
ScottyDsntKno
New Member
This is what I'm wondering too. I used a 18" long 1/2" drive actual breaker bar(not a ratchet) and gave it about an inch or two of clearance to the floor to get some momentum going with the starter.
SHO GoDz 89
True Sleeper
Ace Hardware has ****** bolts. When it comes to specialty bolts they have just about anything.
If it is an m14x1.5 then I shouldn't have a problem finding one.
Again I don't have time to wait for a bolt to come in the mail, and it would make a lot more sense to just buy a bolt and washers from a hardware store. I have a spare 3.0, but I don't have the tools to get the bolt off, besides, I might just end up with the same problem trying to take that one off.
The entire engine is metric, so there is no such thing as a specialty bolt that can't be found. If worst comes to worst I can go to a machine shop and look for one.
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gmorrell
Never been a noob...
The SHO crank damper bolt is a real odd animal.
It's M14-1.5mm pitch, the shank length to the back of the ****** is 50mm.
The ****** is 47mm diameter and 6.3mm thick. It has to be this large to apply compression force to the damper ****** that slides over the crank snout. The radius on the back side of the ****** to the unthreaded shank is quite large, which tells us something about the forces transferred into the ******.
Click thumbnail to enlarge.
The large, strong ****** applies a compressive force to the inner sleeve of the damper, which is actually sort of soft material. This causes the damper sleeve to compress and deform a little bit, so it fits very tightly around the crank snout. This is why you can often push the damper onto the crank snout, but once it's been bolted down for awhile, you need a puller to get it off.
You aren't going to accomplish the above with a regular bolt and a flat washer.
Here's a possible solution that a SHO parts vendor could undertake. Source a bolt like this: M14-1.5 X 60mm at McMaster. Then have a machine shop make a ******, 47mm O.D. and 10mm thick with a clearance hole for a 14mm shank. Get the ****** hardened and sell a replacement crank bolt assembly. M14-1.5 is unfortunately a little bit uncommon, and it may take some searching to find something with more tensile strength then prop class 8.8, 116,000 psi tensile.
It's M14-1.5mm pitch, the shank length to the back of the ****** is 50mm.
The ****** is 47mm diameter and 6.3mm thick. It has to be this large to apply compression force to the damper ****** that slides over the crank snout. The radius on the back side of the ****** to the unthreaded shank is quite large, which tells us something about the forces transferred into the ******.
Click thumbnail to enlarge.
The large, strong ****** applies a compressive force to the inner sleeve of the damper, which is actually sort of soft material. This causes the damper sleeve to compress and deform a little bit, so it fits very tightly around the crank snout. This is why you can often push the damper onto the crank snout, but once it's been bolted down for awhile, you need a puller to get it off.
You aren't going to accomplish the above with a regular bolt and a flat washer.
Here's a possible solution that a SHO parts vendor could undertake. Source a bolt like this: M14-1.5 X 60mm at McMaster. Then have a machine shop make a ******, 47mm O.D. and 10mm thick with a clearance hole for a 14mm shank. Get the ****** hardened and sell a replacement crank bolt assembly. M14-1.5 is unfortunately a little bit uncommon, and it may take some searching to find something with more tensile strength then prop class 8.8, 116,000 psi tensile.
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hawkeye18
Sorta cares
and 50mm = 1.97 inches. Damn, I'm good! I totally guessed 2".
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