P1518 imrc

[MilTownSHO]

So I have a what appears to be common code of P1518.

I took off the throttle body cover and plastic intake and had a look.

Looks like it's working correctly to me:

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xELGtYGHfU[/YOUTUBE]

Link to video in case it's not working: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xELGtYGHfU

So I unhooked the battery to clear the codes, drove around without the check engine light. No problems.

Turn the car off, restart it, and bam the light is back on.

What gives? Sure doesn't look like it hanging up or anything.

I don't notice any performance difference with the light on or off regardless.

 

[E1 v2]

It's been years since I welded that car, maybe the intake is getting grungy. With the low miles, it is definitely a suspect for 'carboning up'.
You can wire open the secondaries and unplug the IMRC box, then reset the codes by disconnecting the battery and all should be OK from there.
I may have a spare IMRC box laying around somewhere if you get down into my neighborhood any time soon and want one, but you'll probably need a good intake cleaning too.

 

[PrestonsSHO]

Customer Concern: The Check Engine light (CEL) is on, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) sets a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1518.
Tests/Procedures: 1. Access the Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) actuator on top of the front valve cover. Verify battery voltage on the Red wire at the actuator, and a good ground on the Black/White wire and the Gray/Red wire. With the actuator unplugged and the key on, check for 5 volts on the Dark Blue/Yellow wire in the connector.

2. If OK, backprobe the Brown wire with a jumper wire, and install a voltmeter on the Dark Blue/Yellow wire, with the voltmeter ground lead to any good ground.

3. With the key on and the actuator connected, ground and un-ground the Brown wire using the jumper wire. Look for the actuator cable to pull in and open the levers on the intake manifold when the Brown wire is grounded, and for the cable and levers to release when the Brown wire is ungrounded. Verify that the levers in the intake manifold move freely. Also, monitor the voltage on the Dark Blue/Yellow wire as the actuator cable pulls in and releases. When the actuator is released, the voltage should be 5 volts, and when it pulls in, the voltage should drop to slightly less than 1 volt.
Potential Causes: Defective Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Actuator
Sticking Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Butterfly Valves
Defective Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) Position Switch — Serviced only by replacing actuator.

Tech Tips: Trouble code P1518 would indicate that the secondary butterflies in the intake manifold are stuck open and will not close. The butterflies are normally closed at idle and under approximately 3300 RPM. When RPM exceeds the approximate 3300 RPM area, the butterflies should open for improved engine torque.

 

[E1 v2]

Preston - That is the longest "Clean Your Intake" your butterflies are sticking, I've seen in a long time. Thanks for that ;-)

 

[PrestonsSHO]

lol...yeah it is..lol.... its the technical diag from nanpafix. there good for wiring voltages colors and stuff...thought it might be of use.

 

[MilTownSHO]

It's been years since I welded that car, maybe the intake is getting grungy. With the low miles, it is definitely a suspect for 'carboning up'.
You can wire open the secondaries and unplug the IMRC box, then reset the codes by disconnecting the battery and all should be OK from there.
I may have a spare IMRC box laying around somewhere if you get down into my neighborhood any time soon and want one, but you'll probably need a good intake cleaning too.

You have a PM