No go on the TURBO!! Help please.

[Toolman]

Did you say "brand new" battery? As in, not been working in a vehicle before?

It should measure much better than 12V with everything off and/or disconnected. Try a _known_ good battery that's fully charged. Just because it's new doesn't mean it's not a candidate for blame when this sort of stuff is going on.

I was using the battery out of my other SHO at first, which is why I got a new one, so I did not have to keep swapping. So yeah, a known good battery has been used. Still, even with a very weak, near to dying battery, the fuel pump should prime.

I don't think the 6V at the inertia switch is a good sign, either.

I am not getting ANY voltage at the inertia switch in my turbo. The 6v I measured on the other car, but I was not going to ground, just from one wire to the other.

 

[Bizzy]

Tim,

Check all the sensors for vRef. That's the place to start rather than replacing parts haphazardly. This does sound very familiar to what happened to my 91 last summer. Did you do anything at all under the hood after the last time you had it running? If you did, chances are the problem is close to the area you were working.

Check the vRef at the TPS.

Key off > disconnect TP sensor > Key on, engine off > measure voltage between vRef circuit and Sig Rtn circuit as seen in pic above.

The voltage should be between 4.0 & 6.0 volts. If it is, check your spark to make sure that it's present and consistent.

If it's not then:
Key off.

Disconnect 60 pin connector. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

Install breakout box and connect processor to breakout box.

Key on, engine off.

Measure voltage between Test Pin 37 at the breakout box (if you have one...if not you can still test this) and SIG RTN circuit in the Self-Test connector. Note voltage.

Measure voltage across battery terminals. Note voltage.

Are both voltages greater than 10.5 volts, and are both voltages within 1.0 volt of each other?

If yes:
lKey on, engine off.

Breakout box installed (need one for this test), processor connected.

Measure voltage between Test Pin 26 and Test Pin 46 at the breakout box.

What is the voltage?

Greater than 6.0 volts

Less than 4.0 volts

Between 4.0 volts and 6.0 volts
---------------------------------------------------------------

Aggg.......these tests are very helpful but they go on and on and on with many variables. Do you have the 92 PCED Tim? If not I'll get you mine, just PM me your address and I'll have it out in the morning mail. It really is of most value and very easy to use. I didn't understand a darn thing about electrical stuff before last summer. Now I know more than I want to know.

 

[SHOSIG]

After my 3.2 swap, I had the same problem. I finally discovered that one of my injector connectors had come off. I think that not having the injector connected would not close the circuit and did not fire the fuel pump. After I reconnected it, fuel pump kicked on and car fired right up. As far as the inition switch,turn the ignition on and with a long nail or straight pick ,feel for the "button" under the key, press it in and the cylinder should come out. Good luck!

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Tim, when Kirk and I come to pick up the wheels, if God forbid you don't have it running by then I'm sure we can figure it out. If not, I'll have 5 crisp Benjamins in my pocket for you!

 

[DHMag]

Tim, you mentioned you had done some work on it but nothing electrical. did you at least disconnect any wire harnesses ? if so, there are 2 gray ones above the trans that have the same pin configuration and will swap each other male/female. ive tried this on my personal car and it creates a crank/no fuel pump prime/run condition. id have to go look again but would you like a picture ?

 

[Toolman]

Thanks a million Beth!

SHOSIG, I will look into my injector harness. As far as the ignition switch, you are thinking of the cylinder lock. The switch is much more involved. Both have been replaced.

Chris, sound like a plan. But I really want it going before so I can take you guys for a spin. Even if we got it running, it needs an alignment, so I need her up and running soon.

DHmag, I have pulled and reconnected those, but only during my trying to track down the problem. They were never pulled prior to the no start condition.

I will be VERY happy if it is only a cable problem, but at the same time I will feel rather silly that I did not replace them a long time ago. But whatever is causing the problem seems to be a result of the car sitting for some time.

 

[Off Road SHO]

Tim

I have a Break-out box if you need one.

Tom

 

[Bizzy]

PCED will be in the mail in about 5 minutes. You should get it by Thursday.

 

[Toolman]

thanks Beth!

Tom, what is a break out box?

 

[shopartsnw]

Tom, what is a break out box?

A 10lb sledge (aka Ford wrench) makes you feel better for a little while :laugh_ti:

Seriously though, a breakout box is a box (hence the name box) you can hook in line with the electrical connections (like at the main ECU harness). It passes all the connections through, but lets you test and probe the individual circuits (hence the breakout). You can breakout individual circuits and troubleshoot them more easily.

Good luck Tim, I wish we were closer, so we could lend a hand (or hammer).

Have patience and you will get it figured out.

- Mike

 

[Dr.Evil]

If you can't figure it out, you could always hardwire the pump to a switch mounted whereever you want. Would make a nice anti-therift trick too.

 

[Toolman]

If you can't figure it out, you could always hardwire the pump to a switch mounted whereever you want. Would make a nice anti-therift trick too.

Which is likely what I will end up doing if I can get it figured out. Not like this car is going to be host of this hardware much longer anyway.

 

[92sho16]

thanks Beth!

Tom, what is a break out box?

Its a box that goes between the cars computer and wire harness to allow a technician to probe various sensors and output actuators without having to back probe or slice into wires.

 

[Redskull]

Nope, and I would not know how to do that.

sorry for the lateness, i've been away; anyway:

make sure the car is off, make sure the battery is charged (doesn't have to be fully, just not stone dead), disconnect the positive battery cable, and put a multimeter (set to DC Amps) between the post and the cable (red to the post, black to the cable end). It should read maybe .1
if it reads more, have a buddy pull each fuse, one at a time, while you look at the meter. When you pull the right one, it should drop to nothing. Look up what that fuse controls, and you should narrow down the wiring that's faulty. Pay close attention to areas that you were working around to isolate points where it can be pinched.
If it's only you doing it, you can attach the + cable again, and do it from inside the car; pull each fuse and stick the leads into each terminal of the fuse holder to see which one reads high.

As far as the starting issue, can you post what the voltage of the battery is when the key is in 'off', 'run', and 'start'?

PS, sorry if i'm too late and you already tried all this

alan


**EDIT*** don't forget to shut the door when you do this, or the dome light will skew your results. Ask me how I know :banghd:

 

[Red Devil]

Deep breath time. I would do as suggested directly above and find your draw first.

re: fusiblke links, they can go bad and show no outward signs. Sucks. Had one go in a '91 SLO after a wire got caught in the fuse swingout thing. Then it was a ***** to trace around to find that.

Anyone have a wiring diagram I can look at for this car?

 

[SHOTerror]

Only thing that comes to mind besides everything everyone else has mentioned:

http://www.superhighoutput.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1059

 

[revhardSHO]

MIght be a wiring harness issue. You have another one you could swap in there?