Mysterious no fuel pump prime.

[haydenm315]

Yesterday my car wouldn't start after running normally. I was in a parking spot with all 3 dogs and my wife. It was probably upper 80's outside. It's been really hot this week... a couple times at 100.

It would crank. I would get spark because I could see it was trying to fire, and the tach was moving normally. After this tool with a loud jeep with no exhaust drove away, I noticed the fuel pump wasn't priming when I turned the ignition on.

I dont' have a cutoff switch in the back. I took it out of the system a while ago when it broke and made me think I had no fuel.

After eating my sushi on the trunk and getting impatient for the free tow, I cranked and it started. I filled it up and it started fine this morning and got me 26 miles to work without a problem.

I'm trying to figure out what happened. Here are the possibilities I've come up with.

1. The car was quite low on fuel. maybe I ran out of gas.
2. My fuel pump is about to die.
3. CCRM is on its way out.

Here is some other information. My ccrm has some guys name written on it. The guy I bought the car from haha. My fuel pump prime noise has sounded kinda loud in the past. I have replaced the fuel filter around 3 times I think since I bought the car. I'm not the best with it, but i try to do it. I know it's been less than 10k since I did it last time.

What circumstances would cause the fuel pump not to prime when the ignition is turned on?

I keep running into people who say cutting the access hole to the fuel pump is a bad idea because it will leak and rust. They said it's not too hard to drop the tank. I live in MD where it rains and snows. What should I do if I decide to replace the pump?

 

[SASHO91]

to check if the fuel pump is working do the following..

on the EEC test connector:
With the key on...Ground the bottom right pin to the chassis(strut tower) using a jumper.
You should hear the relay click in the CCRM, and if the fuel pump doesnt run, well you could either have a bad connection, or a bad pump. And you can rule out it being the Inertia switch as you have it removed. However, double checking your connections there would be a good idea as well.

EEC test connector:
-- -- << (the one you use for code pulling)
-- -- -- -- <<< (that one)

 

[shopartsnw]

I vote for the fuel pump starting to fail. We had the same thing happen twice before. It seemed to be worse in hot weather. My guess is that the motor in the fuel pump developed a dead spot/flat spot, and if the pump happened to shut off on that spot it would not start. With repeated attempts, I could sometimes get the car to prime. If not a little cool down would usually allow it to start. After a month of chasing this issue thinking it was the CCRM or something else, it started cutting out while driving. This gives you the added bonus of running out of fuel in the middle of an intersection while turning.

My preference is the Walbro pump. They are quiet and last a long time. I have seen noise/wear problems with the Carter/Holley pumps for some reason.

Let me know if you cannot find a Walbro, and I will point you in the right direction.

- Mike

 

[haydenm315]

I vote for the fuel pump starting to fail. We had the same thing happen twice before. It seemed to be worse in hot weather. My guess is that the motor in the fuel pump developed a dead spot/flat spot, and if the pump happened to shut off on that spot it would not start. With repeated attempts, I could sometimes get the car to prime. If not a little cool down would usually allow it to start. After a month of chasing this issue thinking it was the CCRM or something else, it started cutting out while driving. This gives you the added bonus of running out of fuel in the middle of an intersection while turning.

My preference is the Walbro pump. They are quiet and last a long time. I have seen noise/wear problems with the Carter/Holley pumps for some reason.


Let me know if you cannot find a Walbro, and I will point you in the right direction.

- Mike

This look about right?
Item# Description Quantity Price Total
GSS242 190 ltr/hr fuel pump 1 $80.00 $80.00
FPF016 190 ltr/hr kit for Taurus SHO 1 $87.15 $87.15
Sub-Total $167.15





Sounds good to me. I wonder if my fuel cutoff switch wasn't bad from the start and I removed it for no reason. My pump has always sounded funky. It just never died so I figured I'd keep on pushing my luck. Been 3 years now I think.

I'll look around for the walbro. I hear nothing but nightmares from the autozone special. Should I opt for cutting the hole or dropping the tank. I have the standard 3.0 or 3.5 ton jack and jackstands.

 

[TYSHO]

I'll look around for the walbro. I hear nothing but nightmares from the autozone special. Should I opt for cutting the hole or dropping the tank. I have the standard 3.0 or 3.5 ton jack and jackstands.

Are you looking for a stock replacement, or a more performance orientated pump? Just asking because I can get you a Ford pump for less than any Walbro.

As for replacement, I would avoid cutting if you can, unless you have something to seal up the cut to avoid fuel vapors inside the cabin. If you happen to snap the strap bolts, you can buy slide in nuts with bolts from AutoZone or so in the Help section. That's what I used, thanks to Yamaha V6, and it only cost $3.43 for the set.

 

[projectSHO89]

Where did you hear horror stories about the "AutoZone special"?

The pumps that AZ sells for the SHO are made by Airtex and are both of good quality and more than adequate flow rate. I've got one in my 89 right now. It's been there for a year and works perfectly.

The only problems noted have been from those that have bought the lower capacity "stock Taurus" pump. Certainly not the pump's fault.

FWIW, I opened the floor pan to replace the pump. Angle grinder and 10 minutes work to gain access to the pump.

Steve

 

[stensg]

you shouldnt run it low on gas the fuel pump is cooled by the gas and it can over heat and stop working not much help i guess all im saying is its prob. the fuel pump