93rev2sev
SHO Member
Is there a reason you aren't just lapping them? Are you using oversized valves? I'm counting on my heads being in good enough shape I can just lap the valves. Is that wishful thinking?
My Engine rebuild... NEW PICS PAGE 5
- Thread starter SHO_DOODmorrris
- Start date
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Is there a reason you aren't just lapping them? Are you using oversized valves? I'm counting on my heads being in good enough shape I can just lap the valves. Is that wishful thinking?
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
Meh... i guess it sjust a while your in there kind of thing. its not hard to do 
and its free! (school has all the stones and tools obv)
On another note. everything is ready to be picked up tomorrow afternoon so ill be there and then i can start assembly the following day.
and its free! (school has all the stones and tools obv)On another note. everything is ready to be picked up tomorrow afternoon so ill be there and then i can start assembly the following day.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
Its back :evil grin: he took 6 thou off the block and it looks dandy. he said the crank barely needed to be touched and he found out my harmonic dampener is wobbly. dident have to touch the pistons (he said they are within like 2 thenths of a gram or somthing)
Also... he convinved me to do somthing else that i have never really thought about and everyone that does a rebuild should...
On most japanese cranks (dont ask me why) the use a ballbearring check valve liek thing to cap off the rifle bores i guess... now he told me if i dont remove the balls and remove all the shit behiend them (there is close to half an ince or more) then it all falls out and tears up the bearings as soon as you start it. ill take a pic of what they removed its pretty bad. these guys are the only shop in edmonton that will do it and there is only one guy in this shop that does it. hes worked there for over 50 years! he made a jig about 10 years ago and then the end up drilling out the middle of the ball then pound them a bit and somhow pull them out. after that they clean her up and install new plugs (not th ball type)
just food for thought and wondering if anyone else knew about it.
-mitch
P.S... i have my turbo now!!!
Also... he convinved me to do somthing else that i have never really thought about and everyone that does a rebuild should...
On most japanese cranks (dont ask me why) the use a ballbearring check valve liek thing to cap off the rifle bores i guess... now he told me if i dont remove the balls and remove all the shit behiend them (there is close to half an ince or more) then it all falls out and tears up the bearings as soon as you start it. ill take a pic of what they removed its pretty bad. these guys are the only shop in edmonton that will do it and there is only one guy in this shop that does it. hes worked there for over 50 years! he made a jig about 10 years ago and then the end up drilling out the middle of the ball then pound them a bit and somhow pull them out. after that they clean her up and install new plugs (not th ball type)
just food for thought and wondering if anyone else knew about it.
-mitch
P.S... i have my turbo now!!!
Sounds like he's trying to take more money from you. If he cleans properly after doing anything to the crank, he should be able to get it clean. I personally wouldn't want anyone to mess with those. If he doesn't seal them correctly, there goes your oil pressure.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
... ill take a picture of what he removed. and they are sealed properly. he guarrentees it. any crank he touches that has those he dosent let go until that has happened. the one time they dident do it the got a bill for 2500 bucks for engine repairs. they are a ***** to do and only one guy in the shop knows how to do it. for 40 bucks its worth it to me. the shit behiend those things was nasty and hard. like i said ill take pics of what he removed.
-Mitch
-Mitch
Good, luck (seriously). If it were to fail, you'd have to prove it, and prove it was their fault. We've all left ours alones and let the machine shop clean the cranks properly and haven't had a problem.
FWIW, I've had people promise me stuff all the time... Vadim promised me something once too....
FWIW, I've had people promise me stuff all the time... Vadim promised me something once too....
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
well ill let you know how it goes then.
1995SHO9
FLEES ARE COMIN
I agree with Jason for once........
****'s freezing over.
J/K Jason.
****'s freezing over.
J/K Jason.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
J/K you dont agree with him or j/k hells freezing over... newsflash
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
Oh 1 more question... do the Felpro headgaskets take boost ok or do i need a different headgasket? thanks
-mitch
-mitch
firstgen89sho
former Slo_SHO
Dave is still running around with my 30 tho under rod bearing and 20 tho under main bearing'd crank engine with no problems and that was machined, and I and him have not had a problem with the engine yet, and there is prob about 15-20k on that engine now.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
Crank is in and plastiguaged and looks pretty! lol. Also speedy sleeved both ends of the crank and file fit 4 of 6 piston ring sets so far.
quick question for the boosted boys out there. are you running the stock rod bolts or have you managed to source new ones? thanks
-Mitch
quick question for the boosted boys out there. are you running the stock rod bolts or have you managed to source new ones? thanks
-Mitch
93rev2sev
SHO Member
I'm wayyy behind you. Glad we aren't racing.
Sounds like your labor charges are about double the going rate in Detroit. Cleaning and surfacing the heads was $60 this afternoon.
Sounds like your labor charges are about double the going rate in Detroit. Cleaning and surfacing the heads was $60 this afternoon.
1995SHO9
FLEES ARE COMIN
Thats what I'm using Mitch Mitchal.
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
i dident do the heads, just the block but im thinking i should prob do the heads... i dont want to play too much with lowering the head on the block though. yeah its pretty expencive up here.
sho_sc
New Member
I'll have to look up the numbers, but I did find a set of ARPs that work with a little messaging of the rods/caps. I "think" they are the same that fits a Chevy 2.8L (carry over from 6 cyl stock car racing).
sho_sc
New Member
I found my notes!
The machine shop installed #133-6002 ARP Rod Bolts, which are the 8740 series made for the 2.8L V6 Chevy. Machined the OEM Rod to fit, which wasn't really that much, they used a "rimmer" bit. Bolts TQ'd to 38 ft lbs. (ARP shows 40 ft lbs as the TQ).
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
hey thanks a tonne! i just need to decide now if i want to do it. the guys at the machine shop said its prob worth it to do it. but if they need to be machined to fit thats even more money. these rod bolts have been torqued 2 or 3 times in their life (one at the factory, one after taking it off the crank to check for out of round and maybe the machine shop torqued them once) we will see though thanks a bunch for that info!
-Mitch
-Mitch
SHO_DOODmorrris
Owner & Fanatic
One more question i dont remember if i have asked already, are the felpro head gaskets boost happy? or do i need to get different ones?
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