More on the overheating issue

[Oz]

Hooked up an autometer water temp gauge today, in the vain hope that the OEM gauge was BSing me.

Its running between 210-230 degrees, consistently........ frown

 

[shojuan]

Crap. If it was 210-215 it would be OK. 230 is too hot. I'm sorry Oz. Obstruction, scale, impeller fins broken off water pump? Scale is the easiest to take care of. Damn it sucks trying to fix this over the net. Too bad I'm not a little bit closer.

Rick

 

[AutoSHO]

Pakisho:
Hooked up an autometer water temp gauge today, in the vain hope that the OEM gauge was BSing me.

Its running between 210-230 degrees, consistently........

Whatever it is, we share EXACTLY the same problem. I am getting the AC system reclaimed sometime within a few days (hopefully no later than next wednesday) I'll let you know if that solves the problem. Looking at my condensor, it seems pretty beat-up, so hopefully that will solve it.

 

[Oz]

I know. Sucks. I have talked to Tom G., Vadim, Nick Chrimes and just about everyone else. Sucker just won't run normal temps!

 

[Oz]

Chris, I didnt see your post there........what do you mean reclaimed? Cleaning?

I stuck my hand between the fan and the block when it was on, and the air pressure seems fine to me. I dont see what you mean about the condensor getting in the way. But I would like to know, though. Can you elaborate on your theory?

 

[luigisho]

Oz, is this on the hulk or the white '92? I thought you fixed it with the hose replacement?

 

[rangerj]

Pakisho,

If the A/C condenser were obstructing the air flow it could cause a problem. This would be obvious, and show up in the way of dead bugs, leaves, undercoating material, etc.

Your inspection indicated that the air flow through the condenser and the radiator is OK. You also noted that the cooling fan(s) is blowing strong. This would tend to eliminate the air flow as the problem.

The leads us to the flow of the coolant through the system. The coolant flow is affected by the thermostat, the radiator (inside), the water pump, and the hoses. I have not seen a collapsed radiator hose, or a water pump impeller that had its fins completely corroded with minerals, in a very long time, but I have seen more than one of each.

There are a couple of other factors to consider. Is air getting into the system. The possibilities are; 1. an exuast leak into the system via the head gaskets, and 2. air being sucked in at a water hose or other connection.

Another possibility is a lean fuel air mixture. A leak at any vacuum hose, and/or the intake manifold mating surfaces could cause a lean mixture problem.

The computer would try to compensate for this and the engine would idle erratically. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Have you gotten any codes that might indicate a mixture problem?

I'm sorry I do not have any absolute solutions for you, but I figured that the old adage about multiple heads being better than one might lead to the solution by process of elimination!

It's easy for me to think out loud while you "turn the wrenches"! Hang in there ****, we will get this solved. rangerj

 

[BeatDaSHO]

Pakisho........i'm still there with you. I had the exact problem. Like i said, the way i "fixed" it was with an aftermarket fan relay which could turn the fan on at any temperature automatically between 90 degrees and 210 degrees. This now keeps my temperature at 195 at all times. The fan comes on more but i'd rather break my fan then my engine. You might want to consider doing this. Like i said, i have had the same problem as you and replaced EVERYTHING from the cooling system and no difference.

Greg