Major Problem

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Bizzy

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Happened to me as well and I believe you gave me the switch need to fix my SHO as the one I got from Ford was bad.

If you go around a long sweep turn to fast you can active the switch and and I have had mine shorted out for some reason.

Yep and yep. I'll never forget you rolling up to the convention hotel, car on trailer, not knowing whether you would be able to drive your car that week or not and then the relief on your face when she fired up. :)

I already tried it. I also intentionally set it off with a screw driver and reseted it and it still didnt work.

Well, at least you can say that has been tested and is not a part of the problem. Sometimes it can be the most simple, in your face things that cause problems and it's a shame to not start with those things. I've been there/done that a few times myself and I still kick myself for it to this day.
 

Kilty423

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This just sucks. All ford nationals are coming soon and once again my SHO wont be able to show up most likely.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Don't forget that unless the car is running, the PCM only commands power to the fuel pump for about a second or so after they key is turned to run. So, when testing for power at the pump/IFS/CCRM, etc. you need to do it during the time the PCM is actually commanding the pump on?

Have you tried jumping the EEC test connector to force the pump on? That will allow you to test/trace the circuit from end-to-end while it is supposed to be energized. In the following illustration of the test connector, you want to jump the fuel pump pin to ground, with the key turned on. That will tell the PCM to command the FP relay in the CCRM to turn on and stay on as long as the pin is jumped:
eec.gif
 

Kilty423

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so i stick a wire in the fuel pump slot and put it to a ground on the car? So this is the best way to trace the circuit to see where the power isnt going?
 

Bizzy

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I believe you put it in the fuel pump test slot and the small connector like when you run the codes. I connected mine that way by accident once when I was first learning how to read the codes. It should turn the pump on and keep it running. If it doesn't, then there's a problem.
 

Mr Anonymous

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I believe you put it in the fuel pump test slot and the small connector like when you run the codes. I connected mine that way by accident once when I was first learning how to read the codes. It should turn the pump on and keep it running. If it doesn't, then there's a problem.
You can technically connect the FP lead to the STI or SR legs and get the same result, but the proper way to do, technically, it is to ground the lead. :evilgrin:

so i stick a wire in the fuel pump slot and put it to a ground on the car? So this is the best way to trace the circuit to see where the power isnt going?
Exactly. That way you've put the circuit in a state where it is supposed to have constant power which should aid in tracing/probing the circuit. It can also help with simply tests like wiggling harnesses to see if you hear the FP kick on. Remember that they key has to be turned to the run position for this to work.
 

Kilty423

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Well i gotta try it this week. Car is at my job right now since there is more space to put it. I live in a small alley way and dont wanna take up parking on a non moving car. I appreciate the help guys.
 

bubba

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I have the same thing! I've been talking too Eric about this. I'm stumped. We cleaned the intake manifold. Put it back together and it won't start? I changed the plugs and wires too. Everything is back together. The fuel pump primes too. I think my coil craped out. I'm running out of time. My wife might want my car gone if I can't fix it. any help would be greatful:thankyou:
 

RAYJAY

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I have the same thing! I've been talking too Eric about this. I'm stumped. We cleaned the intake manifold. Put it back together and it won't start? I changed the plugs and wires too. Everything is back together. The fuel pump primes too. I think my coil craped out. I'm running out of time. My wife might want my car gone if I can't fix it. any help would be greatful:thankyou:

how is the ground to the intake sounds like you don't have any ground to the dis

you did hookup the rear ground to the intake ???

Jeff
 

bubba

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how is the ground to the intake sounds like you don't have any ground to the dis

you did hookup the rear ground to the intake ???

Jeff

At first I didn't then I did. It got healther. Then I tore it back down to find the intake manifold gaskets were worn down. so I have them on order. I hope that will fix it. alot of leaks. Thanks for the help Rayjay
 

SHOMON

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Kilty, just for grins when you get to the car turn the key on and check the accy circuit in the under hood fuse box 10a mini . I popped that fuse once and put a ccrm in because the car would crank but not start. I had quickly tested that fuse and somehow missed that it was blown.
 
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Kilty423

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Seems like i am at a sorta loss here. I am getting power no where. I tried the jumping the pump and it didnt work. No power is getting to the inertia switch either. I am completely stumped.
 
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RAYJAY

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Don't forget that unless the car is running, the PCM only commands power to the fuel pump for about a second or so after they key is turned to run. So, when testing for power at the pump/IFS/CCRM, etc. you need to do it during the time the PCM is actually commanding the pump on?

Have you tried jumping the EEC test connector to force the pump on? That will allow you to test/trace the circuit from end-to-end while it is supposed to be energized. In the following illustration of the test connector, you want to jump the fuel pump pin to ground, with the key turned on. That will tell the PCM to command the FP relay in the CCRM to turn on and stay on as long as the pin is jumped:
eec.gif


Chris if you have a bad ignition switch will that cause no power to the pump ??? Ryan did jump the ecc plug and there no power at the inertia switch

Jeff
 

SHOMON

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I checked this on my car, and when I pulled the 10a mini fuse from the accy. feed in the underhood fuse panel the ccrm does not click. However the ccrm does still get constant power. The car will crank but not start or get fuel. And I'm not sure about spark. But there is a seperate fuse for the ign. coil.
 

Mr Anonymous

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Chris if you have a bad ignition switch will that cause no power to the pump ??? Ryan did jump the ecc plug and there no power at the inertia switch

Jeff
Possibly.

When you turn the key to run, and the CEL comes on, is it bright or dim? And, does it extinguish when cranking?
 

Kilty423

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Car is probably not gonna make it to carisle. I found a blown 10 amp mini fuse. Didnt change anything at all. I am at a loss.
 

St Louis SHO

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check to see if the CCRM itself is grounded? I've had this happen (on my 86 GL) and it wouldnt prime the pump either. IIRC (on the 86) it was a small black wire that ran on the backside of the core support under that main harness. If it's not there, should be on top of the core support near the CCRM. Also, check to make sure the CCRM you replaced with is an M (93 MTX correct?)

- James
 

RAYJAY

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check to see if the CCRM itself is grounded? I've had this happen (on my 86 GL) and it wouldnt prime the pump either. IIRC (on the 86) it was a small black wire that ran on the backside of the core support under that main harness. If it's not there, should be on top of the core support near the CCRM. Also, check to make sure the CCRM you replaced with is an M (93 MTX correct?)

- James


James i sent him a J code CCRM that was on a 92 mtx that I pickup for parts car.

the car ran fine and pump primed on that CCRM ( i also check it out with the CCRM tester before i shipped ) I may run down Sunday to see if I can help Ryan out, any idea where to look :oogle:


Jeff
 

SHOMON

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Kilty try switching your ccrm back it is possible that the old one is fine. Does your car have an atx over flow and battery setup? Because when the 10amp mini fuse in my car popped it was due to a faulty coolant level sensor in the over flow (95 ATX). I only figured it out because I had no fuses so I used a jumper wire and the sensor melted a nice hole in itself.
 

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