Major Problem

[Kilty423]

Well i had a prior post where my car died out the blue. Well i went through it and i thought it was the fuel pump since it wasnt priming. Well i replace the pump and the car still wouldnt start. My buddy and I put a meter up the pump connector and there is no power. I also replace the ccm or whatever its called to see if that would do it and still no turn over and no power. Was told to suggest if a bad ignition switch in the steering column could effect some of this. Besides that any other suggestions would be helpful. Thank you
~Ryan

 

[Devin]

You checked power lead going to the pump at the gas tank?

And you are sure it's not priming, like checking the pressure at the rail?

 

[Swantum Leap]

But seriously, if it is the ignition switch here's a great write-up on how to replace it.

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=82942&highlight=replace+ignition+switch

 

[Devin]

That is a good writeup, isn't it?

I just noticed that you said that it wasn't cranking. Before you do anything else you need to get it to turn over. Find out the answers to these questions:

Do you have a fully charged battery?
Is the starter faulty?
Is the ignition switch faulty?
Is the ignition cylinder faulty?
Is battery power getting to the starter?

In the 1st gens you can apply power to the starter by using jumper cables on the fender mounted relay to test the starter itself. I don't know if this is possible on the 2nd gens, but if it is I would try.

When you finally get it to turn over, rent a fuel pressure tester and test the rail pressure. It should be within 31-41 PSI with the engine not running.

 

[Kilty423]

No it is cranking...just not starting...

 

[spee-d]

fuel pump relay or fuse.

 

[fusion1620]

Check the small power wire going to the positive terminal. The inline fuse can disconnect pretty easy....

 

[SHOMON]

Kilty, check the 10amp mini fuse in the under hood fuse box. There are two I'm pretty sure it says acc. feed or something. It is the one on the left. Was your low coolant light on for a while?

 

[Bizzy]

Did you check the cut off switch in the trunk? Sometimes those things just die out of the blue. Double check first that it hasn't been tripped. If it has, just push the button and try to start again. If it hasn't been then you might place a WTB ad.

Also, what year/trans is your car?

 

[RAYJAY]

beth his car is a 1993 mtx

Jeff

Beth please Check your PM's ...lol

 

[sho32getsit]

If the fuel pump runs when u turn the key to on position. I'd check the crank sensor.Pump won't run if the ecm doesn't get a crank signal.

 

[Bizzy]

If the fuel pump runs when u turn the key to on position. I'd check the crank sensor.Pump won't run if the ecm doesn't get a crank signal.

The fuel pump will still prime if the crank sensor is bad. He's got no power to the pump at all.

 

[sho32getsit]

Then trace the circuit back from the pump.
Power at the relay?
Power at the switch?
Check the grounds?


I was saying that if it DID run with key on to check CS.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

Should have followed the advice in the original thread - it was recommended to check for power at the pump. You've also never posted what codes you pulled . . . .

From memory:

The fuel pump circuits originate in the engine compartment and pass to the main body harness via the dash harness. There are five connectors to the main body harness located in the driver's A-pillar, above the emergency brake pedal assembly. From there it follows the driver's-side floor-pan where there is a connector that connects to the second body harness forward of the trunk/remote fuel door access panel. This second body harness routes wiring circuits that control the Illuminated Entry/Keyless Entry system components.

Immediately aft of the trunk/remote fuel door access panel there is a large harness take-out that crosses below the driver's seat, center console, then passenger seat - to the right half of the body harness that runs from connectors in the passenger's side A-pillar, to the passenger-side of the rear seat, where the harness passes through the floor to the fuel pump.

Start tracing the fuel pump wiring there and work toward the front of the car. Until you get to the 5 connectors under the dash, I believe there is only one wire per color-code (ie. not two wires with the same color). I'll dig up my EVTM (for 1994) to see which connectors and pins are for the fuel pump.

 

[Kilty423]

Thanks guys. My only concern is i would rather have someone who knows what they are doing to come down and help me lol. Free case of beer or something if someone does lol. I hate getting into electrical stuff.

 

[93rev2sev]

We may still be able to help you here...please confirm the following.

Spark: Disconnect a plugwire at the plug, stick a screwdriver in the hole and clamp it to the engine lift eye such that there is a gap between the screwdriver's metal shaft and the steel of the lift eye. Get someone to turn the key and crank the engine over while you watch for spark.

If there is spark, move on to fuel.
Remove the keys from the ignition. Get a rag and a plastic ball point pen. Take off the schrader valve cover from the fuel rails. This is the "tire valve lookin thing" poking up through the intake in the center on the right side. Hold the rag over the pen and press the valve. Fuel may shoot out for half a second if there is any pressure. Set the rag and pen down and turn the key to "ON" for 3 seconds. Repeat the pen trick. If fuel shoots out again, the pump is priming.

This is how you avoid lots of un-needed work in about 3 minutes.

 

[sho32getsit]

Good advice from 93rev. But I'd be interested in the case of beer,I'm in MD:woohoo:

 

[Bizzy]

Check the fuel pump cutoff in the trunk before having someone come down or do anything else. If that is tripped you will have zero power at the pump. It's as easy as 1-2-3 to check and takes all of 20 seconds to do. If it's tripped then all you have to do is push the red button.

Where is it? Open the trunk and on the driver's side fender well around the hinge area you'll see a hole in the mat/rug/whatever you call it. Look in the hole and you'll see a red button. If it's not tripped then you can either call it quits and cut your losses at a lost 30 seconds or you can bang around the area and force it to pop, then reset it by pushing it. I've seen where they weren't fully tripped but tripped enough to cut power to the pump a couple of times which led to the owners to replacing a ton of crap for nothing.

IMO it's worth a try anyway.

 

[LOUDSHO92]

Check the fuel pump cutoff in the trunk before having someone come down or do anything else. If that is tripped you will have zero power at the pump. It's as easy as 1-2-3 to check and takes all of 20 seconds to do. If it's tripped then all you have to do is push the red button.

Where is it? Open the trunk and on the driver's side fender well around the hinge area you'll see a hole in the mat/rug/whatever you call it. Look in the hole and you'll see a red button. If it's not tripped then you can either call it quits and cut your losses at a lost 30 seconds or you can bang around the area and force it to pop, then reset it by pushing it. I've seen where they weren't fully tripped but tripped enough to cut power to the pump a couple of times which led to the owners to replacing a ton of crap for nothing.

IMO it's worth a try anyway.

Happened to me as well and I believe you gave me the switch need to fix my SHO as the one I got from Ford was bad.

If you go around a long sweep turn to fast you can active the switch and and I have had mine shorted out for some reason.

 

[Kilty423]

I already tried it. I also intentionally set it off with a screw driver and reseted it and it still didnt work.