Legacy amp couldnt handle audiobahn 10"

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thebigjimsho

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Well, I have a healthy electrical system and I have a system tuned for sound quality not max SPL(2 a/d/s/ P4100.2; 1 for 2 a/d/s/ RS10.2 subs and 1 for the components). I understand the cap is not for every system but it is not worthless. boink
 

SHOZ123

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I agree with the thought that caps are a band aid. What you really need is a good path directly to the battery. Shorter the better. A good deep discharge battery (Not Optima) and healthy cable, clean and proper connections will easily give you up to 1500 amps on demand. Bigger alternators too are a waste of money. They just keep the battery charged ultimately. They cannot keep up with instantaneous demands of high power systems.
 

thebigjimsho

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SHOZ123:
I agree with the thought that caps are a band aid. What you really need is a good path directly to the battery. Shorter the better. A good deep discharge battery (Not Optima) and healthy cable, clean and proper connections will easily give you up to 1500 amps on demand. Bigger alternators too are a waste of money. They just keep the battery charged ultimately. They cannot keep up with instantaneous demands of high power systems.
Well, like that thread that underdog pointed out, using extra batteries can help but it also adds load for the alternator. It's a balance. Saying one thing is worthless can be ignorance in light of different setups and electrical conditions. Caps can help. Higher output alternators can help. Extra battery power can help. boink
 

SHOZ123

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using extra batteries can help but it also adds load for the alternator
A battery is only a load when it is undercharged. Once charged up through normal driving it takes very little for the alternator to keep it up. Driving while using a high powered amp will draw some power out of the battery when the alternator cannot keep up but the rest of the time the alternator will charge the battery easily on a 20 amp output.

The size or type of battery is invisible to the alternator. The alternator only knows the voltage potential difference of the sulphate ions on the battery plates. The type of alloys used in the grids are the main contributor to an efficient battery, not size or plate paste formulas.

A quality deep discharge industrial type battery can deliver 1500 amps at 12v for many seconds. A capacitor can't even come close.

<small>[ December 06, 2002, 08:50 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

Dave Ladely

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I really don't know why so few even seem to know what a capacitor really is, but are willing to spend a lot of money on what is an extremely high profit item, since a cap is a very simple, cheap thing to make. These are all electrolytic capacitors and price does not necessarily mean proportional quality, but does mean proportional marketing and hype to get your money.
Whatever the subjective opinions, a capacitor is really an "instant" battery that discharges all its power in less than a second. That is, it stores electrons and lets them loose almost instantly, and they are gone in less than a second and must then be replaced. Power sagging in an amplifier, if noticable, lasts a lot longer than the time it takes for a cap to discharge. Read a technical description of some depth, then decide.
Best to get a larger battery, which would be like getting a gigantic capacitor with staying power. Also, even better, Jacobs makes a clever electronic device which will maintain around 16 volts regulated dc - now that would provide more power and efficiency. I am amazed that few seem aware of it and its advantages!
 

SHOZ123

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Also, even better, Jacobs makes a clever electronic device which will maintain around 16 volts regulated dc -
Do you have a link to this product?

Also HERE are some good batteries. You can get a lighter weight than the typical car battery and still have twice the power.

<small>[ December 08, 2002, 07:19 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

underdog1924

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Dave Ladely:
I really don't know why so few even seem to know what a capacitor really is, but are willing to spend a lot of money on what is an extremely high profit item, since a cap is a very simple, cheap thing to make. These are all electrolytic capacitors and price does not necessarily mean proportional quality, but does mean proportional marketing and hype to get your money.
Whatever the subjective opinions, a capacitor is really an "instant" battery that discharges all its power in less than a second. That is, it stores electrons and lets them loose almost instantly, and they are gone in less than a second and must then be replaced. Power sagging in an amplifier, if noticable, lasts a lot longer than the time it takes for a cap to discharge. Read a technical description of some depth, then decide.
I know what a cap is...I've been dealing with them for over 6 years now. Please don't talk down to people that don't have as much experience as others. You just come off looking like a ****. :)
 

yamahaSHO

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My capacitor was $30 for a 1 farad. It won't completely dicharge every time your amp calls for power. If you get a big enough Cap(1 farad per 1000watts rms) The amp will not draw enough power from the cap for each of the charging and discharging time constants. My cap sure could store power, in fact, I disconnected my battery and was able to start my car with the cap.
 

Dave Ladely

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www.jacobselectronics.com has the device which maintains up to 16 volts, regulated. Wont sag. More voltage means more available power, as long as it doesn't go too high.
I dont know of very many auto stereo people who really know what a capacitor really is. Do you?
Sales people act like they do and so do some stereo fans, but when you ask them just exactly how they work they come up with some wild theories. Check it out.
Also, few know that every 3db more volume means the power required doubles each time, and 3 db is a very small increase in volume. So, every small increase means twice the power, then twice that power, etc. Doesn't take long to realize that a LOT of power is required for even moderately loud volume.
 

Dave Ladely

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So just WHO is the ****, the person who expects someone to know what they are talking about and what they are buying and what they are giving advice about, or the person who claims to know the facts, but it turns out he/she really doesn't. There is a lot of BS floating around, and the BS'ers call those who call BS BS are villified as jerks.
Another case where a little knowledge is worse than none at all.
 

thebigjimsho

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Dave Ladely:
So just WHO is the ****, the person who expects someone to know what they are talking about and what they are buying and what they are giving advice about, or the person who claims to know the facts, but it turns out he/she really doesn't. There is a lot of BS floating around, and the BS'ers call those who call BS BS are villified as jerks.
Another case where a little knowledge is worse than none at all.
Yeah, I've seen some of your other posts. You don't exactly come off as sounding like the nicest guy around. Say what you want in return, that's my opinion.
 

yamahaSHO

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I am actually very good in electronics, especially when it comes to individul components. The Air Force sent me to a 6 month long school for this, with 3 of the months being Electronics Principals. Also, this is the kind of stuff I work on, on a daily basis. If you don't believe in a cap, then don't use it. If you open up and amp, most of the good amps have very large capacitors in them already.

<small>[ December 10, 2002, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: yamahaSHO ]</small>
 

yamahaSHO

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philallemang:
hey jason, maybe we could trade a my 3.2L build for your sub system that your trying to sell? just a thought
I sent you an e-mail.
 
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