Car audio

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Mutt4life100302

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Mar 6, 2025
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Sherwood Park Alberta Canada
Im running 2 alpine v power mono amps mrp-500 one on a newer alpine 12 inch type r swr-1242D 4 ohm + 4 ohm sub and with it wired so each positive and negative on both coils come to meet where my wires come into the box and then my other one is an older 12 inch type R set-1221D 2 ohm + 2 ohm on the Alpine V power mono amplifiers MRP – 500 now with both positive sides of the coil coming to one spot and both negatives coming to the one spot now that one when I get pushing heavier base through it cut out oh I’m not sure if it’s at the amp can’t produce enough power for it or it’s producing too much power for it so now I disconnected it and I put the positive on the positive with one positive wire coming up and a negative to the negative with one negative wire coming up instead of two wires coming down I don’t really think that’s gonna make a difference, but I’m hoping it does but as it is like they kick pretty hard but what is the big difference between the two subs I don’t understand OK so the two ohm takes more power and will kick harder meaning that the alpine V power MPR – 500 amplifier is not enough power for the 12 inch alpine type R SWR – 1221D or what does that mean? Do I need to go positive to negative coil with it coming into a whatever or why would it cut out like that? There’s nothing wrong with the sub it’s fine. It has no nothing. I just don’t understand why when I start to put the bass through it it sends my amp in to protect mode right now, my 12 inch type R SWR – 1242D 4 ohm + 4 ohm sub and my other Alpine V power Mono amp mrp-500 exact same amp does not cut out on me and I also have two extra car batteries hooked up each running one of the amps for the subs, but I got it set up from the positive on one battery goes to one amp and positive on other battery goes to other amp and then I made sure each negative comes off of the opposite battery. That positive on the amp is on and wen they’re kicking my power doesn’t dim down at all my alternator gauge doesn’t move at all like it and I’ve got 680 W RMS wire positive negative amplifier kit, running from the batteries to the amps and the auxiliary cables with the remote wire that comes with it running and both of them are in an enclosed box now with that it did start to blow the box apart but the one Sub 1221D after I took it from where it was wired positive positive on the coil and negative to negative on the coil with the positive wire coming up to the positive and a negative wire coming up to the negative from where the lines come in on that little thing on the back of the sub box and I put positive wire to positive wire to the one spot on the sub box connecter took a wire from each negative down to the negative and then that’s what it seems like it started to cut out so now I have just wired it back to where it goes from positive to positive and then the positive comes up negative negative negative so I’m hoping that this will take care of my power problem or whatever it is but any other ideas about it and what would be the better way to have these wired to this?
 
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