Just replaced rod bearings: Looking for suggestions/feedback

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40BelowSummer

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This was my second time replacing rod bearings. Everything went relatively smooth except getting a rod cap stuck on the studs on the connecting rod which had to be carefully pryed off. Carefully, but it still left some scratches on the rod cap.

So, on the second rod cap from the rear of engine ( 1-2-3-4-5-6). It took a bit more force (manpower) to remove the rod cap but it came off in a few seconds with no problem. However when I reinstalled it, it didnt go on quite as easy as the others did; it was pretty snug. So I proceeded to "press" it back on and reinstall it, then it got kinda crooked and wouldnt go any further. So, I tried to pull it back off so I could try again and it wouldnt budge. As hard as I tried I couldnt get it to go back on any further or come back off. So I placed a cloth over the end of a socket extension and carefully tried to pry it off. After a few minutes it came off. But because of this it left a little bit of pitting on the rod cap. I personally thought it would be okay, since they werent that deep and didnt even make it to the surface where it looks like the bearings sits (judging from the oil stain). However I would still like some feedback, so Im not so nervous about this.
rodcap.jpg

rodcap3.jpg


Check out some of the bearings I pulled from this car. 282K miles, history unknown, original motor suspected. No knocking, oil pressure light came on at idle for first time on the day I parked the car to change the bearings.
bearings.jpg


This looked odd to me, you can see the little groove that is supposed to line the rod bearing up on the rod cap, but on the opposite side it almost looks as if there were another. What do you think?
rodcapgroove.jpg

rodcapgroove2.jpg


Connecting rod bearing surface: Could use some emery cloth probably but not scratches or pitting.
crankrod.jpg

rod.jpg


Crank looked good Id say.
crank.jpg


I used the crank bolt to rotate the crankshaft. I turned it clockwise and counterclockwise depending on the bearing I was going to. Do I have to make sure its torqued or something or did it not matter because the wheels were off the ground and it was in neutral?

I also used plastigage on two of the bearings and if my eye is correct when visually compared to the little chart it looked like it was bigger than .003 but a little bigger than .002. This is okay, right?

Hmm...I think thats it for now.

I appreciate any and all responses.

Thanks
Rhett
 

Off Road SHO

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Rhett,

First off, you've got a cool first name.

Second, those dents don't look like they're near any contact area of the bearing, so you should be good to go. Rods and their caps are pretty darn tough.

Third, that dimple stain is from the dimple of the other half, don't worry about it. The bearing halves can be used in either the cap or the rod end. The oil hole is only used in the rod half to direct oil to the **** hole at the top of the rod.

Fourth, when looking at the Plasti-gage results, the fatter the squish the smaller the gap.


Tom
 

Lorenr

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Rod bearings R & R

Good advice.

By the way looks as though the bearings were moving around in the cap. I think that 280,000 miles is a lot for the bearings. From these pictures it looks as though they should be replaced much sooner.

Wear is probably normal for those miles, but as the bearings become thinner they are going to want to walk around in the cab.

Always put the rod cap back on by hand. Never force it. If it will not go back on find out why. You probably cocked it.

Use a hand file to remove the nicks in that cap. File just enough so there are no sharp edges.
 

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