Is it safe?

[shoon]

I have almost the exact same engine support bar, except mine only has 1 hook centered directly over the engine. I was going to run 1 chain diagonally across the engine and attach it to the bolts on the cylinder heads used for the brackets on the intake.

2 bolts 1 chain ? or should I double up and run 2 chains diagonally?

 

[SHObill]

I would use two of those! What is that rated at?
That support bar with only a center attachment, I would not trust to be underneath!

 

[sho'noffmtx]

also look at what weight the chain is rated for along with the bar you are using and error on the safe side...

 

[Racer X]

I have almost the exact same engine support bar, except mine only has 1 hook centered directly over the engine. I was going to run 1 chain diagonally across the engine and attach it to the bolts on the cylinder heads used for the brackets on the intake.

2 bolts 1 chain ? or should I double up and run 2 chains diagonally?

The one in this pic is safe.

The one you described with one lifting hook is a life insurance claim waiting to happen.

 

[shoon]

Well, thats what I came up with.
supposedly good for 500Kg. thoughts?

 

[sperold]

You would have to show us your central hook set up.
It would probably have a deeper structural member with thicker top and bottom plates. It should have a load rating stencilled on it.
The one chain is probably OK, but since the "V" of the chain is so wide at the engine, you have a lot of sideways force on your engine mounted eyes, which they were not built for. I would run a chain using the eyes and another to bolts on the heads.

 

[sperold]

Looks good to me.
I would lay a 2 X 4 across the engine (one for each chain) that was as long as the intake is wide (and maybe an inch more). It will act like a spreader bar and keep the intake sides from getting squeezed together. And it will keep your intake from getting marked up.

 

[elarm1]

I got one, it works but with the subframe removal sometimes it WILL shift and you will have a **** of a time trying to get the motor back straight with the reinstall.

 

[SHObill]

I would not want the chains on the tanks squeezing them. That set-up gives no way to tip the motor to remove/install trans! Buy another support so you can have a frt & rear attachment. It will be so much more stable & safer. OR just move that one to the rear & build a frt one from wood.

 

[biker889]

Well, thats what I came up with.
supposedly good for 500Kg. thoughts?

I have used that same one on two SHO's and a honda. Not as easy as other designs, but very safe!

 

[93rev2sev]

Looks safe but hard to manuver the engine. Also, those chains (as stated) will be squeezing the beejeebus out of the intake manifold and simply adding the spreaders sounds like it would ne MORE dangerous...what if the pressure makes one of the spreaders break?...the engine would fall.

 

[platoribs]

Looks safe but hard to manuver the engine. Also, those chains (as stated) will be squeezing the beejeebus out of the intake manifold and simply adding the spreaders sounds like it would ne MORE dangerous...what if the pressure makes one of the spreaders break?...the engine would fall.

When the wind blows the cradle will fall and down will come baby, cradle and all.

Not a pretty picture.

 

[AREA 91]

No offense, but that isn't safe enough for me!

Safety first, then team mork.


I made my own out of wood. 2 seperate braces and a chain. I could probibly hang half the car from it. IMHO there is no such thing as "over built" when it comes to getting squashed to death. The sad thing is most of us are worth much more dead.:laugh_ti:

 

[Ishodu]

I would like to know how sturdy the legs are and what you have that chain attached too. How thick the metal? And whats the weight rating on the chain? FYI once your chain or sling angle at 30 deg the rating of the sling is cut in half.

This is one I welded up and put together and works great.

 

[93rev2sev]

That set up might be good enough to swap a subframe, but you have to position yourself UNDER the engine at various points in a clutch job. Don't take that kind of mass lightly (punn intended).

 

[Ishodu]

If you were replying to mine (93rev2sev) I would have to disagree, don't let the pipe fool you that just to take the weight and its under compression only it does not hold it from twisting. That is done by the angles welded to the other part that is crossing the engine bay. All parts are welded solid, the tubing is 2x2x5/16". When I remove sub frame I bet there is less than 1/16" deflection. I would feel safe holding up 4 times that weight. Of course then we are limited by what the fenders can hold.

 

[shoon]

Well, my shop time is limited. A friend lent me his shop for 2 days and I'm going on to 3, need to get this done and out of his shop.

I went with the original setup, had no lumber around to reinforce anything, so I put jackstands under the engine anytime I am under there. It appears to be VERY solid, the engine stayed put when I dropped the subframe.

I've come across a couple issues... 1 serious.

one of my front subframe bolts snapped, and is stuck inside the frame.


Whats the best way to get it out? drill out the middle and use an easy out?

RCM gave me a resurfaced flywheel with a ****** ring gear

Can I flip the ring gear around the other way, or will that stress the teeth because all the load used on them has been pushing them the other way?

Found the surface of the old flywheel to be all spotted, is that oil contamination or heat?


Old pressure plate appears to be fairly worn:



Last but not least...


which way do the new subframe bushings go on? Cupped side on the bottom, or on top? I'm thinking the thicker one goes in the middle, between the subframe and car

old bushings



OH,
and also, the high heat grease for the clutch, the drawing is kinda vague, does that go behind the sleeve, over top of the sleeve and on the pressure plate fingers and TOB fork tips?

 

[Ishodu]

To remove the broken sub bolt get a big hammer and a punch and hit it upward it will come out. That flywheel has heat spots common with an organic disk. I wouldn't put the grease on anything but the release shaft bushings. You don't want to have it getting anywhere near the clutch or PP fingers.

 

[shoon]

Got the SHO back on the road, gotta say it handles like a completely different car!

The subframe bushings I think made a HUGE difference, coupled with the wavetrac, sway bushings, and strut rod bushings. All appears to be good.

Many thanks to all those who helped!!

Shaun