Intermittent issue - boost, misfire, temperature

[Ta2dResqr]

I love starting the day with weird problems. On my way to work this morning, I got a check engine light and the car seemed to lose power. I checked it with a scan tool and had a 316 code for misfire on startup (light came on after 45 minutes of driving) and a 303 for cylinder 3 misfire. I checked live data and the car was not making boost even if I gave it more pedal. The coolant temperature was reading 149*. The o2 sensors both seemed to be cycling and about the same value. Short term fuel trim was 0 for both banks. I could see some RPM flutter at with cruise control at a steady speed. After a couple minutes, everything went away. Coolant temp jumped back up to what it should be. Flutter in RPM was gone. Car made boost like I expected (MAP at 29 psi). I drove another 20 minutes after this happened. I got to work and there was a small amount of "oil smoke" from the back side of the motor and I am down about 1/4 qt. since my last oil change (50% remaining on oil life). Coolant looked full. I will go look some more when it gets to be daylight.

 

[kryptto]

PCV sticking because of freezing temps?

 

[SHOdded]

electrical issue of some sort? sometimes it is the knock sensor wiring, tho tsb only states for gen 4.

definitely have been pcv issues over the years, worth a look.

check the turbos for oil pooling, same w turbo hoses and intercooler.

diaphragms on the blowoff valves have been known to tear

c-clips on the wastegate actuators slip/disconnect entirely.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

PCV sticking because of freezing temps?

Brand new. Installed it over the weekend.

 

[kryptto]

Brand new. Installed it over the weekend.

Catch Can? Don't see it in your signature..

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Catch Can? Don't see it in your signature..

Nope. I had a JLT and it was creating issues. I never actually got any accumulation and then one of the plastic fittings broke creating a huge leak. Someday I plan to get a good catch can.

 

[kryptto]

Nope. I had a JLT and it was creating issues. I never actually got any accumulation and then one of the plastic fittings broke creating a huge leak. Someday I plan to get a good catch can.

I never got any accumulation using their clean side can either, then retired it for UPR.

 

[kryptto]

@Ta2dResqr how is Lucy?

 

[Ta2dResqr]

@Ta2dResqr how is Lucy?

Not good but seemingly very intermittent. I am hoping to pull plugs tonight. I did some quick borescope looks last night. The intake has a sheen but no large accumulations. I got her up on jack stands and the only thing obvious I saw is it looks like the oil pressure sensor is leaking through the connector. I will be replacing that. I ran a KOEO test and got a P025B. That looks like a Fuel Pump Control Module. I am running the Dorman replacement for about 18 months now. That code has not come up any other time. I ran a KOER and everything was fine. When I drive it, I get an intermittent P0316 and P0303. Both could be a plug. It has also started disabling Forward Collision Control, Adaptive Cruise Control and Stabilitrak. After a little while the warning light for Stabilitrak will go away but the cruise control still will not work. It says the sensor is blocked.

I am hoping this weekend to do a battery, oil pressure sensor, and spark plugs. If that does not work, I will put factory coils and FPCM back in and go from there.

 

[cody2010sho]

Not good but seemingly very intermittent. I am hoping to pull plugs tonight. I did some quick borescope looks last night. The intake has a sheen but no large accumulations. I got her up on jack stands and the only thing obvious I saw is it looks like the oil pressure sensor is leaking through the connector. I will be replacing that. I ran a KOEO test and got a P025B. That looks like a Fuel Pump Control Module. I am running the Dorman replacement for about 18 months now. That code has not come up any other time. I ran a KOER and everything was fine. When I drive it, I get an intermittent P0316 and P0303. Both could be a plug. It has also started disabling Forward Collision Control, Adaptive Cruise Control and Stabilitrak. After a little while the warning light for Stabilitrak will go away but the cruise control still will not work. It says the sensor is blocked.

I am hoping this weekend to do a battery, oil pressure sensor, and spark plugs. If that does not work, I will put factory coils and FPCM back in and go from there.

My 2010 is doing the same thing with the collision avoidance and kicking off my cruise, what's with this?

 

[kryptto]

Well I have my old FP control module, I will send to you it worked fine, but decided to change for the latest revision after issues with the 10-14' module. However it is a known good, more than happy to let you try it.

That said all the "ELECTRICAL" issues, could be battery for sure like Shodded pointed out. My suggestion, short the keep alive memory after taking out the battery... what could it hurt.

I will be putting in brand new Ford coil packs and checking the plugs myself this weekend.

My car goes nowhere and I will say this - if I don't have her on a charger she slowly dies. If I let her sit 3-4 weeks no driving and it start showing in sync needing to shutdown.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Well I have my old FP control module, I will send to you it worked fine, but decided to change for the latest revision after issues with the 10-14' module. However it is a known good, more than happy to let you try it.

I appreciate the offer. I replaced mine as a precaution. I kept the factory one as well. Sometimes my hoarding actually works out. lol

 

[Ta2dResqr]

New 65 series 850CCA battery (old one was starting to leak and was at least 2 yrs old, in the car when I bought it). Still acting up. It seems to correspond with when the temperature gets weird. I can be cruising the freeway at 190* and it will drop to 149* and start missing.

What are the built turbo guys pushing for boost? Anyone blown a head gasket from boost? Was it cylinder 3?

I found a post on F150 EcoBoost saying misfires were numbered off the firing order and not cylinder numbers. Never heard of that in any application. Is p0303 the driver firewall cylinder?

 

[kryptto]

What are the built turbo guys pushing for boost? Anyone blown a head gasket from boost? Was it cylinder 3?

I found a post on F150 EcoBoost saying misfires were numbered off the firing order and not cylinder numbers. Never heard of that in any application. Is p0303 the driver firewall cylinder?

Will wait to see what those folks say. Did the battery fix things or still hqppening?

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Will wait to see what those folks say. Did the battery fix things or still hqppening?

Still acting up.

 

[SHOdded]

New 65 series 850CCA battery (old one was starting to leak and was at least 2 yrs old, in the car when I bought it). Still acting up. It seems to correspond with when the temperature gets weird. I can be cruising the freeway at 190* and it will drop to 149* and start missing.

What are the built turbo guys pushing for boost? Anyone blown a head gasket from boost? Was it cylinder 3?

I found a post on F150 EcoBoost saying misfires were numbered off the firing order and not cylinder numbers. Never heard of that in any application. Is p0303 the driver firewall cylinder?

no, misfires are always based on cylinder order. the internet goofed up ... again ... lol.

1-2-3 pass-drv firewall side
4-5-6 pass-drv radiator side

on transverse applications - cylinder order. firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6. how the crank is balanced.

haven't yet heard of a blown head gasket. but piston blowing thru the block yes. broken piston rings yes. generally safe to run up to 18 psi, but better to run bigger turbos at lower psi and make more power.

i would clean all the map and iat sensors just for grins.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Update - I got new plugs. I am running 6510 NGK. I checked the old ones. They were all at .034-.036 except #3 was .040. I installed the new ones at .026 (pretty sure I had done that with the last set). All the plugs were slightly tan/white except #3 was black. I borescoped all the cylinders and with the exception of #3 being wet (shiny like fuel wet) they all looked good. Tiny bit of black carbon but I could still see metal. I pulled my MSD coils out and put the stock ones back in (replaced for performance not because of problems). I replaced the Fuel Pump Control Module.

I took it for a short 5 mile drive. The car is still acting up but not quite as bad. It is still calling for a misfire on #3. I am going to guess I have eliminated ignition as the problem. I have fuel but, it could be too much. Only thing pushing me away from that is my fuel trim is minimal and my o2 sensors are cycling fairly close to each other. Both catalyst are the same temperature as well.

I will try cleaning MAP and IAT. I am on a 24 hr shift tomorrow so hopefully this weekend I can do a compression test and eliminate anything major.

 

[kryptto]

Hopefully it is a bad map or worse an injector, before a blown gasket or seal. I bought new 3 bar map and new coils, my old coils I broke the plastic molded around the edge where it seals on 2 of them. It was financially painful, but dont want to half ass it. Good luck, if you need any spare parts let me know.

 

[Ta2dResqr]

Got my injectors out. Nothing obvious. I did check their resistance though and they are all coming back 3.7-3.9 ohms. My troubleshooting guide says our injectors should be 11-18 ohms. I tried to get specs from Bosch's website with no luck. Then I checked application and Bosch says the 62842 is not for our application. Yet, I can find multiple vendors listing that as the part number. Also Rock Auto says it replaces OEM BA5Z9F593B which matches our application. Can anyone confirm the correct Bosch resistance or our cars resistance?

 

[kryptto]

@Ta2dResqr got ya buddy. See attached

Volt and ohms