Intake Manifold Runner Control - !Help!

[Off Road SHO]

If you are getting vacuum through the solenoid when the engine is below 3950 rpms, chances are it is not bad. Trace the vacuum and see where it stops.

There seems to be a lot of rust or oxidation on the butterfly shafts. Are you sure they are not stuck open (or closed)? Try putting a little oil on the shafts, especially where they are held by the housings, and then try and wiggle the actuator arms by finger pressure. The springs on the shafts are strong but you should be able to operate them by hand.

Tom

 

[vortex2450]

Ok so the first code that pops up is 551 "Intake Manifold Runner Control". Apparently something is wrong with it but I have no clue what it is. My memory codes are for the right O2 sensor, one code says it was lean, the other code says rich... it's the same O2 sensor. The last mem code was for the EGR. This is all that pops up when I read the codes.

Ok, so how do I fix the "IMRC" or diagnose it? What is it? Where is it? I thought about it... Control, so it acts on something... Q: what? A: The intake runners. Q: How? Well I had to think about that too. The runners have a vacuum control on each side that opens the butterflies. A: By vacuum. Ok so I got that far and I thought some more... A: Locate and trace the vacuum lines from those runners. I did and they terminate at a T fitting that connects to a device behind the TB on the intake on the runner side (Inside) Q: Is this the "IMRC"?

Can this Control module be cleaned or serviced?

All Symptoms this 1995 ATX SHO is showing:

1. When cold - Drives great albeit with very firm first to second gear shifts.
2. When cold - Smells a little rich.
3. When Warm - Check engine light comes on.
4. When Warm - Anything more than a quarter throttle makes the car sluggish until almost 4,000rpm then it hauls ****.
5. When Warm - Smells very rich.
6. When Warm - If I give it full throttle it acts funny when it shifts... kinda like it is thinking about it. Does not do this when cold.
7. When Warm - Does not always want to fully kick down on the tranny and go go go...
8. When Warm - Check engine light comes on... goes off... comes on.......

I quite enjoyed the way you presented that, it's like I was in your mind, I can relate as I solve things the same way. Whereabouts in NC are you?

Anyways, my advice?
Take the damn intake off ,disassemble it (not difficult) and clean it out, check the butterfly valves and make sure the open/close smoothly, oil them anyways for security, check all the hoses now since they are exposed and easy to access, be sure all t-fittings/plastic distributor sections are solid and without defects.

Seems to me the issue may lay in hiding somewhere you'd never look with having it pulled apart, but I could be wrong.

Best of luck,
hope it's simple enough when you find it.

-Josh

 

[kevinspann]

What color are the wires on the plug that is plugged into the IMRC?

 

[SHOMON]

I got a new IMRC from the dealer like 2 years ago. My buddy had a hard time finding the part number. Once he figured it out, he said the part number is also used for the 4 wheel drive actuator on the explorer.

 

[lowc]

What color are the wires on the plug that is plugged into the IMRC?

just checked and they should be a light green w/purple and a red wire

 

[thxone]

Sorry guys, been busy and haven't been able to check things out. I have time today. I forgot to check fuses for this first... not sure if there is one but it is an electrical connection so I will check the owners manual... by the way, I have the factory owners manual for this car, it was in the glove box along with warranty stuff. If anyone needs info feel free to ask and I will see what Ford says ASAP

 

[thxone]

Ok so I got the solenoid off the intake. I checked the vacuum lines while I was at it... they are all fine which leads me to believe that this solenoid is faulty itself or the wiring controlling it is faulty. I will list the part number as well in hopes that maybe one of you will be able to find a match or cross reference it as I have not been able to for the last 2 hours of searching.

Solenoid Part Number: E9DE-9H465-BA
This is stamped near the tab that connects it to the mounting bracket.









Note the style of the connector...

 

[thxone]

I got a new IMRC from the dealer like 2 years ago. My buddy had a hard time finding the part number. Once he figured it out, he said the part number is also used for the 4 wheel drive actuator on the explorer.

I would be interested in speaking with this person.

 

[thxone]

If you are getting vacuum through the solenoid when the engine is below 3950 rpms, chances are it is not bad. Trace the vacuum and see where it stops.

There seems to be a lot of rust or oxidation on the butterfly shafts. Are you sure they are not stuck open (or closed)? Try putting a little oil on the shafts, especially where they are held by the housings, and then try and wiggle the actuator arms by finger pressure. The springs on the shafts are strong but you should be able to operate them by hand.

Tom

I don't get any vacuum from the solenoid to the T fitting. The hose from the solenoid is fine. The butterflies are fine as well as when I apply finger pressure to the little tab they move though I can feel spring pressure. I think they are stuck open and is why the car is a dog below 3,950rpm but when it gets above 3,000rpm it hauls arsesesessss. I am almost 99.6352111121% sure the car is running very lean due to the extra air mix below 3,950rpm.

 

[thxone]

A video showing that my butterflies work when vacuum is applied. Also, my solenoid has a bad leak at that cap on the top... there is no stopping the leak unless I seal it permanently... are any of your tops loose or leaking? I can also hear the air leaking.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNr-cBJHqZA&feature=player_profilepage

 

[trainguy1989]

Bad solenoid. All my solenoids have the rattling cap. That is normal. The leak however is not.

 

[Off Road SHO]

What trainguy said. There is a one way valve on the inside of that black cannister that is clamped to the rear plenum next to that solenoid; if that cannister rattles when you have it disconnected, that one way valve is broken. That could be your problem.

Tom

 

[thxone]

Update!

I finally stopped by AutoZone to use the multimeter to check for resistance on the solenoid and to check the volts on the electrical connection to it coming from the computer. I could not get a reading for resistance on the solenoid but I got a reading for volts from the connector...

Engine running:
Red Wire (which is the larger of the two) 11.8-12.65v but mostly steady above 12v
Green Wire .1-.3v

Key Off:
No volts at either terminal.

Battery with engine running:
Just over 14v at the terminals.

I didn't think to do a key on, engine off volt reading at the terminals... but at this point I don't think I need to. I am sure it's the solenoid. I did however find out that FORD still has this part under a different part number... well rather this one specific FORD dealer. They have two in stock. I will post the part number as soon as I receive mine from them.

 

[thxone]

Ok, I did more research and found out that the Ford F-150 from 2006-2009 with 4x4 and a 4.6L in it uses this Solenoid. It's part number (Dorman #600-400) and controls the function of the 4x4. Also, it is used for the EVAP system. Ford list this part number as 6L3Z9H465B. I hope this helps others find this part new.

 

[RookieSHO]

this might be a old thread but my 92 mtx is having similar issues too, my secondaries doesn't kick in until it's at 4500rpm, sometimes my car doesn't perform that well when it's warm,

I might replace my Solenoid to see if it fixes my issues, at least do a test before hand though