Here are a few details on the lovely SHO source ARP head studs and cometic 3.2L gasket.
To start, note that the gaskets are not symmetrical. If you place them upside down, you will port a cooling passage into an oil passage!
Correct:
Incorrect:
The studs are pretty straightforward.
You can install the studs first then drop the head on or the head first and then place the studs in. In either case, normal practice is to bottom the studs, then loosen them 1/8 of a turn. They should be loose.
One thing I noted is that the ARP washers are a smaller diameter than the SHO washers. This spreads the load over a smaller area on the head, which is bad.
The 2JZ arp studs (2jz head virtually identical to the SHO head) have this same issue and most everyone recommends using the stock washers. So you will want to re use the stock washers.
You will need a deepwell 12pt 1/2" socket (3/8" drive) to install the nuts onto the studs. A mid length socket might work. A standard short socket will bottom on the tip of the stud and you wont be able to tighten the nuts.
There is no issue installing the studs, washers, or nuts with the cams in the head.
Other than that, i followed the stock torque sequence and used the following torque stages:
1) torque all to 35ft-lbs
2) torque all to 50ft-lbs
3) torque all to 65ft-lbs
4) torque all to 80ft-lbs
These torque values are with ARP moly ****! This is the recommended thread ****.
I chose 80ft lbs for two reasons. First,
My engine builder/mahinist recommended 75-85ft-lbs based on the diameter and length.
Second, the 2JZ guys (which use a similiar length stud with same M11 thread) use 80ft-lbs and thats the ARP recommendation for that motor.
Now to finish up the timing belt, fuel rails, and intake. Thanks again SHO source for these great products.
To start, note that the gaskets are not symmetrical. If you place them upside down, you will port a cooling passage into an oil passage!
Correct:
Incorrect:
The studs are pretty straightforward.
You can install the studs first then drop the head on or the head first and then place the studs in. In either case, normal practice is to bottom the studs, then loosen them 1/8 of a turn. They should be loose.
One thing I noted is that the ARP washers are a smaller diameter than the SHO washers. This spreads the load over a smaller area on the head, which is bad.
The 2JZ arp studs (2jz head virtually identical to the SHO head) have this same issue and most everyone recommends using the stock washers. So you will want to re use the stock washers.
You will need a deepwell 12pt 1/2" socket (3/8" drive) to install the nuts onto the studs. A mid length socket might work. A standard short socket will bottom on the tip of the stud and you wont be able to tighten the nuts.
There is no issue installing the studs, washers, or nuts with the cams in the head.
Other than that, i followed the stock torque sequence and used the following torque stages:
1) torque all to 35ft-lbs
2) torque all to 50ft-lbs
3) torque all to 65ft-lbs
4) torque all to 80ft-lbs
These torque values are with ARP moly ****! This is the recommended thread ****.
I chose 80ft lbs for two reasons. First,
My engine builder/mahinist recommended 75-85ft-lbs based on the diameter and length.
Second, the 2JZ guys (which use a similiar length stud with same M11 thread) use 80ft-lbs and thats the ARP recommendation for that motor.
Now to finish up the timing belt, fuel rails, and intake. Thanks again SHO source for these great products.
