I was able to finally replace the downpipes on my 2015 SHO non-PP as well. I thought this was a decent place to add my 2 cents.
rockauto.com has the gaskets I purchased. The turbo to DP gasket is MAHF32679, you need two. The DP to the rest of the exhaust is MAHF32686 and you need two of those as well. I didn’t know this but both sets of gaskets are basically two gaskets spot welded together so don’t try to pull them apart, not that you would but yah know…. Next thing I got was some M10 with 1.50 pitch nuts, six of them, from where ever you want, I found mine at Ace. I picked up grade 8 nuts and I’m sure there are opinions one way or another if these are good to use but that’s what I got, you do you bro but just know the size is M10 1.5. I did not find the right stud size that is on the turbo so I cannot help with that. You’ll also need four 7/16 bolts, locking nuts, and washers for the DP to the rest of the exhaust connection. Again, I hit up Ace and picked up grade 8 fasteners,
There is a shop manual somewhere in the forum that a wonderful person posted years ago that is a fabulous resource so look for it, it has the torque specs on all the fasteners you’re touching.
Stainless Works has a great write-up on steps to follow as a guide.
https://stainlessworks.net/content/installation_instructions/2010-ford-taurus-downpipe-ii-35100.pdf
When/if you use this I would suggest putting notes on it with torque settings and when to add the gaskets, more as a reminder so you don’t have to take something back off. I would also add torque your lug nuts on the passenger wheel as the last step because guess who forgot to torque them back to spec before the test drive?
I found copper anti-seize at O’Reilly’s in-stock for the 02 sensors.
I picked up a QuickJack 6000TLX a couple years back and used that to lift the car, works great and is portable.
I discovered at the turbo to DP connection, the lower left stud, is blocked by the sway bar. I used a 15mm deep socket on a 144 tooth wrench with a breaker bar to break it free. I had soaked all the fasteners in PB Blaster a couple hours before. Once it was broken free, I had to switch to a regular socket part way through and then to a ratcheting combo wrench to get it off. No need to remove an CV axles or sway bars. Be patient and it’ll come off. Second item, I could not find a way to remove the bottom front right nut from the turbo studs without removing the oil filter. Pick up some oil because you’ll lose about a quart. That’s about it, happy wrenching!
